Filament load / unload is a pretty common pinch point at the bend of the bowden tube where it enters the extruder. There are many iterations of brackets / supports out there like this one to help as a strain relief.
https://www.printables.com/model/338073-bambu-x1-ptfe-extruder-bracket-ams-error-fix
Iām back on 01.05.01 and 06.32 firmware
After I rolled back the printer was fine but with the speeds I was pushing I actually got skipped steps instead of the nozzle parking
The nozzle parking and a laggy touchscreen were my only issues
Now that I know the limits of the steppers (and my belts are wearing on the XY ) itās time to eeeeeeease the speed back a bit and Iām ordering belts after I type this
So far with my speeds and accelerations dialed back (which is still very fast compared to my other printers and most others) and a thorough cleaning with fresh adjustments and even a loose bed screw itās printing like a dream again
And for whatever reason the laggy touchscreen isnāt lagging anymore 
Thereās still a few things to sort out for the highest quality prints we can get but at 870 hours of pushing it this printer is still a unit and the other little quirks will get sorted some of which arenāt even an issue for me (ie. warped bed, mines flat)
So there ya go, time to order some belts
May I ask, what is the recommendation for replacing the belts? So many hours? After certain issues start appearing? Iām big on preventative maintenance so I tend not to wait around until an issue starts to surface before taking action.
The faster you print the more heat is generated and the belts just wear out
For me I can tell by the reduction in belt deflection (push your finger on the center of the belt when xy are both in their neutral position) and the amount of belt dust or small rubber particles the belt spits off.
Can I run these belts for another 800 hours?
Probably, but from where I stand and from what Iāve seen then 800-1000 hours of print time is plenty out of a set of $15 dollar belts
Itās just preventative maintenance, Iām not one to wait until something like a belt or nozzle are completely worn out and fail before changing them
If you run these printers very conservatively then you might get 3000 hours before changing the belts
Plus I can take these old belts and put them aside as a get ya by set
Thanks for the info. Most of the items I print I do fairly slowly. Iāve only done Ludicrous mode a couple of times and that was for no more than 2 minutes each time. After I asked you that question, I looked in my āBambu Supplyā cabinet and realized I had already bought 2 sets of each of the belts some weeks ago. I was doing my ājust in caseā shopping so I guess I am covered for a while. 
For a while there all of my settings were in the beyond Ludacris mode realm for 90% of my prints
I would only slow down for outer walls and bottom layers
It was more curiosity and Iāve had some spectacular failures lol
Itās like buying a brand new Corvette, obviously youāre gonna see what it can do but if you keep on pushing eventually youāll lose control
Iāve done a few burnouts and gone really fast, now itās time to drive my X1C nicely
Personally, Iām a Hellcat kind of guy. 
P.S. I wonāt compare the two cars because you know where that will get us. 
Very nice. I wonāt tell anyone you used the āCā word.
Thank you so much for this! It worked flawlessly. Great solution.
Youāre quite welcome. I am glad that I can help out.
Well
Iām back on the old firmware again
I went through all of my settings unselecting everything, even anything to do with time-lapse was off the whole time, that would want my nozzle to park in the front right corner
Slowed it down all across the board
Nothing in Orca 1.6.2 or 1.6.3 made any difference
My prints are going nice and smooth, then the print head goes to the front right corner for a second then picks up where it left off leaving a small snot trail
Other than that I really like the new firmware, I just canāt have this feature mess up my outer walls so until all the bugs are out Iām sticking with 1.04.01
Thank you Bambu for the rollback feature
04.01 works great 
With the newest firmware Iām also not a fan of how the nozzle and bed heat up at the same time which causes oozing
1.04.01 has a different preheat sequence that doesnāt ooze filament when the bed is preheating
Plus thereās an extra wipe at the end of the nozzle wipe sequence with 1.05 that smushes everything around real nice like a kid with chocolate all over their face, not ideal lol
The new firmware includes the ability to load external filament even when the AMS is connect, which is great, but when I tried to use it for the spool holder (TPU)ā¦
I have the latest firmware and Iāve followed the video. The filament is successfully loaded. However, printing with Bambu Studio I canāt find the step to turn off the AMS, and so I canāt print. The video shows what to do on the touch screen, but only if youāre printing from there, not Bambu Studio. How do I print via Bambu Studio and use the external spool holder when I have an AMS? When I go to print, it prevents me from doing so and I cannot see an option to choose the external spool.
As a mitigation, I unplugged the AMS and restarted the X1C. Bambu Studio still shows me all the AMS filaments, and sync wonāt work because the AMS wonāt be plugged in. The printer settings page shows external filament in use, however. I can force change the first slot of the AMS in Studio to TPU, and it will allow me to print, but it is unclear if it will do the right things. How come it doesnāt automatically show what is on the external spool despite the printer being configured and showing it in the device? Whatās the proper procedure?
Is studio updated? I dont have this issue, but if youāre switching between ams & external spool or vice versa, you still have to be at the printer to manually retract or load the external filament.
Thank you! I couldnāt find this and searching the docs / watching the video didnāt help! The workflow is still strange to me. Is this correct?
If I want to use the external spool (and Iāve already pre-loaded it on the machine, etc.), I need to:
a) Change filament 1 of the AMS to what is in the external spool, then slice, so it knows what filament it is working with
b) Deselect āEnable AMSā in the print dialog
Or is there a way to choose the external spool from within the settings on the left of the Preview/Prepare screens?
Itās not very intuitive and I only realized this earlier today, but the profiles you pick in the Filament menu donāt determine if youāre using the AMS or not. The labels 1, 2, 3, 4 do not correspond to your AMS slots necessarily.
Probably best by showing an example of bothā¦
So here I have two filaments in my AMS, weāll skip over the actual AMS slots for now. In Studio I pick filament 1 to be Polymaker PA12-CF and filament 2 as the recommended support material PA12-CF Support. However, notice neither profile is selected from the AMS filament section, they are from my user presets. This is because the filaments have no RFID, so I had to manually select something when I physically put them in the AMS and loaded them. So they show up as available profiles under AMS filament, but Iāve already made my own custom profiles for them, so thatās what Iāll be using.
I tilted the model so it would need supports for this example and then slice it up
Now click print plate. Since my last print was not with the AMS, the box is unchecked my default. But you can see it shows us filament 1 and filament 2.
You may notice the label says PA-CF, well thatās because in Studio under filament settings, there is a base type for each profile, and mine is set to PA-CF
Now once you click Enable AMS, youāll see that AMS slots have been assigned to filament 1 and 2. Mine are correct in this case, because I did this earlier today.
To change the AMS slot that is used for either filament you need to click the little drop down menu below the filament type.
Once you click the drop down then your AMS filaments will open up. Youāll notice that slots A1 and A2 are greyed out, and thatās because they have PLA and PLA support. This is where the PA-CF comes into play that I set when I first physically loaded the filament into the AMS. The type set in the AMS needs to match the type in whatever Studio filament profile you are using.
Also notice that filament 1 is actually in AMS position A4, and filament 2 is in AMS position A3. This is why I said that your filaments in Studio donāt necessarily correspond to your AMS positions. They can, if thatās the way you set things up, but it doesnāt matter to the printer or Studio
Also thereās nothing stopping you from doing things like this, where I swapped the actual filaments selected. Iām not sure why you would ever do this in this case. But perhaps if you were printing a multi-color print and you decided to change a certain color last minute, you could do it in the print screen instead 
Now if I want to use the external roll (nothing with the AMS has changed). I go back to my print and Iāll select TPU for example.
Slice it, print it and by default AMS is selected. If I unselect AMS, it will automatically use the external roll.
Hopefully this all makes sense and not too many typos, my ADD is bad sometimes lol.
I nom you to write how to articles
When the print head visits the front right corner then returns to printing, this is an indicator that the system detected a missed/skipped step and what you are seeing is itās recalibration/reorientation process. If for some reason you want to disable this the setting can be found on the printer in the sliders page (2nd icon, under the home icon) on the print options tab and scroll to the bottom, itās the 2nd from the bottom āauto-recovery from step lossā
Looks like 01.05.02.00 got released
