Hello, id be happy if there would be a mod for the a1 series as I see issues when printing petg, even at higher temperature the heat dissapation is low, I also tried boron nitride and it did help but still too low, I then bumped the temperatures to 285-290 but its not the best of all worlds as the heat dissapation seem still not great, any upgrade on this would be appreciated. Note that I have 4 a1 mini and one a1 tested on the same profiles and different parts and it all does the same. thank you
What do you want exactly? An high flow nozzle to print PETG faster? Have you tried the aftermarket hotends on Ali with the removable nozzle? I didn’t try them yet. But since those nozzle are CHT that should increase the max flow available.
actually i want to print petg with standard speeds… and the nozzle wont reach those temps so it creates clogs or matte finish on the parts instead of glossy, also parts come too week with the standard recommended settings from the slicer with the a1 series
If you poke around on this forum, and maybe elsewhere, you’ll find that many folk have problems with PETG. I think there is a basic problem, in that the ‘specification’ for PETG allows all manner of variations. This probably made little difference when printing on the older, slower machines, but the faster you go, the more precise you have to be. Therefore, there can be no such thing as a standard profile. Even batches vary from the same manufacturer, and between colours, and never mind the users local environment and handling of the filament, age, humidity, etc. There is a reason why generally manufactures provide PLA, and pre- sliced test models - it is probably more tolerant of variations. You can tune your printer to match your filament, if you want better results.
I know ive been there and also did suggest people to put temperatures higher, unfortunatly this method is still not perfect this is why I hope to see new
Orca slicer, has some test prints. You can run them. I did that, and found that for me and my filament, I more or less used the pla settings wrt fans, iirc.
Orca slicer calibration prints for petg on p1s, 0.6 nozzle - #27 by Destiny but there are other threads with different conclusions.
I sort of based that on the concept that petg was meant to be like pla, but a higher temperature. It worked with that approach for me, back on my ender 3 and Cura slicer, and seems to work now. What I did was good enough, but would benefit from fine tuning. A concensus, on other threads too, was that the bbl studio petg settings were not very good.
that doesnt make sense ? using pla filament for petg ?? petg prints at least at 255 on the bambu … how can you print it at 220 "? i dont understand what you are trying to tell me other then that as the filament settings and the print settings are 2 different options
oh I see you just change the temperature on it … but still I dont see why using the pla profiles as pla tends to print faster and has a higher volumetric flow
Hi, read the link I gave above. I never said print petg at pla temps (although it would reduce stringing…). I said it was like petg, but a HIGHER temperature (I also altered retraction on the ender) .
I’m away for 5 or 6 hours,but if you want further clarification, I’ll check back in when I return. You will get it sorted, but it can be tricky. I think you may be trying to change too many things at the same time, not a good way of finding/
solving problems.
ok thank you very much 
How is it going? Any better now? Even with 0.4 standard brass nozzle, and bbl petg, some folk get problems, in particular with open printers, where draughts and room temp can be significant.
nah its the same mate… the petg any brand that i take its always the same… i take same model same settings and upload it to the x1c and its way better. not perfect but better. ive also tried bambu petg to give it a try meaby that was my issue but no didnt change a thing. I even got a clog on the mini.
What I would do, wuld beto chose a single spool of petg, your preferrred brand, if any, and get that to work. I run orca slicer which has a number of test prints, but is bbl studio with extras. Then run through the test prints in orca slicer, to get the printer tuned to that specific filament.You’ve found out that petg is not easy for you with the stock settings, I found that the bridging on the temp tower test was sagging, which was corrected by using the part cooling fan. I don’t think there is a magic combination of fiament and stock settings, there are too many variables coming into play. Oh, make sure the filament is dry.
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Pretty much what he said. People are having trouble because of basic things like filament is not dry (out of the bag is not dry), they print too fast (way too fast), and filament is not calibrated.
Do they make CHT nozzles that would fit a a1 style hotend? I have been looking for those but can’t seem to find any anywhere.
I don’t know, at first glance I thought we could use cht nozzles made for the P1/X1 series but the A1 nozzle are probably smaller thant than
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I’ve seen these 3rd party hotends that have replaceable nozzles pop up on Ali for the A1 but it’s not clear if there are CHT nozzles available for it yet. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806422154489.html
The CHT’s that are out there for the X1/P1 look similar but it doesn’t list the A1 as being compatible. I’ve been tempted to try it though.
Yeah me too ^^. I would have tried if I had Also a P1 or X1 series printer but I won’t since that’s not the case.
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