Thanks for adding additional context, this is helpful. And thanks for pointing out the defective link in the original post, I fixed it. But here it is just in case.
OK. Armed with the new data, let me go through what is worth investigating one piece of evidence at a time.
- You’re ruling out bed adhesion, so cross that off the list.
- This new image information on this information is telling. What I am seeing here can be explained by filament moisture but it could also be filament speed. The point is, you can try to calibrate out the speed portion.
- Try running the printer in “silent Mode” which is 50% speed. This will give you a one-button experiment to see if the problem is flow related at the expense of doubling the print time. However, if it is flow related, then you can focus on filament calibration.
- This example here that for some reason did not display the first time I read this post, is an example of speed-induced flow problems. As you change layers, the filament isn’t “setting” properly. Slowing it down can help.
- When I say calibrate you filament, perhaps that’s a poor choice of words. What I really mean is “filament tuning”. These are the fine adjustments one can make to each filament profile to get maximum results. However, before you go there, it’s important to diagnose the speed and temperature issues that may be the root cause. Filament tuning can cure a lot of sins but it’s always best to start with all the other issues resolved first.
- Filament dryer–You already have one. See this video.
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My first dryer. Real High tech, right?
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And if you intend to purchase a purpose-built dryer, here is a review I did comparing two driers and some methodology to judge what may work for you. Sunlu S2 VS Creality Space PI Bake-Off Review
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Number 1 rule of filament drying: Make sure you weigh it before and after drying. Otherwise you’ll only be guessing if moisture was the issue. Remember 1g=1cc=1ml of water. A cheap $10 kitchen scale is more than enough accuracy for this purpose and something you’ll want in your 3D printing tool bag anyway.
- If we look at your Millennium Falcon model. If the Makerworld 3MF is exactly how you printed it, then it’s calling for PETG. Assuming you’re using the new PETG-HF because the old PETG is no longer available, you will want to double-check that you’re using the correct filament profile or simply test it for yourself using filament tuning techniques. Also, if you are using PETG, try PLA filament first and then repeat the experiment with dried PETG.
- Filament Tuning – Just employ Orca Slicer and follow the methodology in these videos:
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02mLDrxEpwQ
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CVq6DycUOE
- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ymywqch6R8w
- These videos are short(under 12 minutes each) and they will walk you through how to optimize filament tuning but do this step last.