Here’s a flow rate test that was well done. Yes the hotend it out of stock. I asked if I could pre order and was told I’d need to wait until March to order.
reached out to E3D too asking about availability w/ the following answer:
W/O a picture of a hardened steel bambu nozzle at that magnification, the picture doesn’t mean much.
E3D got the hotends in stock right now (in my case: delivery to EU / Germany).
Got a little put off by my reply? All I was pointing out, is viewers can’t know whether your post of the Obxidian showed an issue w/o a baseline to compare it too.
So contrary to what you may think, my response would be, I’d like to thank you for taking the time and effort to post the additional image. You have access to equipment the vast majority of us don’t have.
So I actually do appreciate your efforts now that we can see a direct comparison.
What exactly are we seeing? Is it the coating flaking off, the metal disintegrating, or… what? And after how much usage?
After how long are you seeing this level of wear with abrasive filaments? E3D claims that their ObXidian nozzles are harder than hardened steel nozzles. They also mention a tool steel insert is how they achieve this hardness, so I’m curious if the picture is only showing the wear on the softer metals around the insert. Though if it is wearing that bad on the tip, I’m curious how that will effect print quality.
I want to see the BIQU Panda CHT hotend for the Bambu. The Revo version is the only one out now. The CHT version that I believe takes V6 nozzles would be great since I already have a lot of excellent V6 nozzles for my other printers, and the Bondtech CHTs are fantastic.
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Does switching to any of these alternative nozzles mess with the bed leveling (force sensor) at all? I don’t know why it would, but I’ve never looked under the hood to see how things might be connected (mechanical linkages, if any, etc), and I’m always leary of potential gotchas that might arise from assuming too much.
The E3D ObXidian nozzle is a direct drop in replacement, so you won’t have to worry about settings. Now there are reports of the nozzles from Aliexpress can have different dimensions, which people have shown concerns with z offset and other potential wear on things like the wiper. I think they may have improved over time, so that might not be as big of a deal as time goes on. Not sure how these nozzles might effect the the leveling process with the force sensor though.
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What RandomKhaos said. Stay away from other nozzles unless they can prove they have no dimensional variations. The E3D one was developed in cooperation with Bambu to ensure compatibility.
I got both the 0.4 and the 0.6 version of the E3D nozzle. I have been printing with both, but mostly the 0.4mm.
Here are my findings so far:
- Filament does not stick to the nozzle (as much as it does with the stock nozzle), noticed specifically with PETG.
- Settings and everything else seem to work ok
- Dimensional accuracy is not what it should be. I guess it does make some sense.
- I see over extrusion on some areas of parts.
- With the 0.6mm nozzle, some filament (in my case eSun PLA+ Gold and White) fails on flow Dynamics calibration with blobs and over extruded bits.
Conclusion:
I am not convinced it is worth the money, but if you are printing PETG it could save you from failed prints caused by the nozzle dragging filament stuck to it through your model causing it to fail.
I am convinced that some settings (possibly retraction) may resolve the issues I experienced. Unfortunately neither E3D not Bambu offers any tweaks I could find. You would need to invest some time and effort to figure out why this happens.
Try a real set of flow calibrations, not the pre-print calibration. Honestly, the hot-end is a substantial mod, you should run a full sweep of calibrations and make a new set of profiles for your filaments. There’s no way to old standard nozzle profiles are going to apply perfectly. Over-extrusion sounds correct, and that will definitely cause issues with accuracy.
The PETG improvement makes sense, I believe the problem is based on improper flow characteristics. So, any flow improvements should help, especially the stronger heater. Take a little speed out of the print if you find it sticking too much.
Again, run the flow calibrations, max flow rate calibration, temp and retraction tests, and you should be in the ball park.