I’m curious for ABS performance.
Ill test it out with some ABS-GF and ASA 
2 Likes
bambu supertack seems to be hit or miss quality wise from peoples reports. Someone who owns 3 mentions 1 was good and 2 were bad. I would have more confidence in the frostbite or geco.
I bought 2 Supertac plates for my mini and p1s upon release. The adhesion was insanely good for my many small parts as small as 6mm not requiring any brimms. I no longer had to watch the first layer because every print would be successful. It was great while it lasted.
Bambu spec tests say that after 300h it looses 20% adhesion and I can testify to that. After 500h I decided to buy a new Supertac. This one felt like I wasted my money because the adhesion was not as good as my first one. Now I had to watch every first layer even though washed and scrubbed with dawn the plate was having adhesion problems and I had to use the skip option in Bambu Handy all the time!
Yesterday on Reddit I talked to a guy back and forth who sets bed temps for pla as high as 80 and says he never has problems with the default textured pei plate and recommended I up my temperatures. So I upped from the default 45c to 70c and put a tiny miniature gas handle w/o a brim and only about 15mm horizontally on the build plate and printed on the Supertac. It worked! Then I decided to do some further tests on the mini with Supertac. This time I only upped temps from 45 to 60. I put printing a plate full of various size parts including 10mm washers. Every single part printed! I tried the same plate again 2 more times and every part printed.
Being a cold plate it kind of defeats the purpose but upping the plate temps works!
I always use my Frostbite with “textured PEI” selected to give it 55c temp. The cold temp thing is just marketing BS. Yes its better then PEI when cold, but if you want good adhesion you need to heat it.
Did some quick testing of the Glacier plate…
- Nylon - grip was good, better then PEI plate, but my guess for large prints will still will be better to use a PEI plate with nano polymer as it did not feel strong enough to hold up to warping.
- PLA - on a large item the grip was good, had to remove the bed and flex it to remove the item. On smaller PLA items was weaker, had two very small parts come off the plate on a long overnight full bed print. I know with Frostbite version that would not happen. Also I did do the exact same print with the OEM plate and those two small parts stayed attached.
- ABS-GF, ASA and PETG was just okay, not too strong. Was able to push the test block off the bed with just my fingers.
Ill test out PC, PPA, PPS later when i have time.
I did all the testing with “smooth PEI” selected to heat it to normal temps. Also the bottom surface is really nice, its a matte smooth finish not shiny like smooth PLA plate, this is regular pla not matte. Keep in mind textured PEI still hides the extrusion lines much better with its texture, you can still see the extrusion lines on this plate.
TLDR: not bad with most filaments, but master of none. Perhaps for nylon its a decent tool (without adhesive), but for other filaments there are better options.
Once you’ve tested with PPA-CF and PPS-CF, inspect the build plate for any damage. Most plates of this type can be compromised by nozzle temperatures exceeding 300 °C.
1 Like
Tried some polycarbonate and the adhesion was not good, thin tall print fell over. Look like I will be using this plate for nylon mainly. Also I print my PAHT at 300c, did leave a bit of ghosting on the plate but nothing major, similar to other filaments. Dont think it permanently damaged anything. I print my PPA and PPS at 330c and 340c, will post again after I test it.
I can also run tests as soon as my H2D arrives. Since a dedicated Carbon Fiber Plate is not yet available, I’ll be using the Smooth PEI plate for now.