I am newbie in 3D, keep it in mind, don’t roast me much please
owning X1C and doing the printing on that machine
I am printing this Lego Mining Truck with PLA materials (supplier of the PLA is not Bambu)
I have already printed like 30% of the total count of parts from attached model, all with the same PLA producer, but different colours ofc. Not many issues encountered so far.
When printing certain part from that model, I get spaghetti failure (image below) EVERY TIME at certain part at the specific layers range, it always fails at layers 50-60. I already spent almost 1,5kg of filament on this specific part as I was trying few different settings.
I tried bunch of things as:
change sparse infill pattern from gyroid to honeycomb to grid
change sparse infill density from 10 to 15%
clean up the nozzle via Bambu’s official tutorial (like pushing and pulling fillament through extruder at different temperatures)
cleaning up the plate (Bambu’s PEI Textured)
I know it can be hard to advise something, but I can provide more context from the settings if needed. Also I got on my mind to try glue the plate or maybe increase the temperature (not sure how to do it though, if via Bambu’s slicer app?)
Thanks in advance to everyone who is willing to spend the time with my issue.
Grid infill is bad in some circumstances. Best not to use it. Basically, it lays down filament in x direction, then goes back and does the y direction, without raising the head. If the x direction has had time to harden, then the head can collide when it does the y direction. But it looks as if the part is lifting from the bed, maybe it’s the cause, or the effect. Try using a brim, and perhaps raise bed temperature. Hopefully you’ve calibrated printer to the filament, filament dry, all the usual stuff. Orca slicer has calibration test prints, and is a fork of Bambu, so you may as well use that.
OH MY GOD. So what you did is to use the PEI plate for flow rate calibration. I know that it might not be the cause for the spaghetti, but I really want to mention that. That might affect the results a lot. Even if you don’t have spaghetti you’ll probably suffer from terrible artifacts in the print.
Another thing is that Bambu doesn’t allow you to use flow rate calibration on PEI plates, so you probably changed the settings to non-PEI. This will end up letting the printer have problems on bed adhesion and in bad times, damage the printer.
So anyway, it would be better for you to watch the print till it fails and describe it.
Wait. The part lifting from the bed is proof of my print setting issue. BED ADHESION. Yes. Change the print settings to PEI plate and try again. ← flow rate calibration lines
No, sounds like you have the correct setting for your plate - and does look like there is calibration lines, that have adhered to the PEI plate as part of the print job and looks succesful at those lines.
Does the part move\shift and then spagetti?
This textured PEI plate looks diffferent than mine, mine was purchased separately, at ther time Bambu was only giving Cool Plates with the X1C and AMS Combo. Is this the only plate\printer? what setup etc do you have to test a few different things?
Yes, that came with my X1C. I’ve printed a variety of items on my X1C, including some custom-made simple pieces, and everything has worked well so far. Regarding the calibration lines, I’ve encountered issues with roughly 1% of them since acquiring the printer. To date, I’ve used about 7-8kg of filament. I’m also attaching an additional photo from the “spaghetti saga.” Please notice that there’s an issue in the initial layers of that inner circle, where some “brims” have been added by the design’s creator. I haven’t seen this issue in other similar parts I’ve printed, even those in different colors.
Regarding the settings: The project was originally “pre-configured” for P1P, but I switched to X1C, clicked “Transfer” settings, and immediately started the print job. Occasionally, I manually enabled supports when I deemed it necessary.
Also, I’ve noticed a bent side on some of the printed items (refer to the attached image). I suspect it might be related to bed adhesion, so I’m planning to enable brims in future prints. Additionally, I regularly clean and dry the build plate with paper towels.
Defintely adhesion, yes you can try brims. if its jut certain corners, its probabily cooling fan orientation, you can also try new methods of brims like “mouse ears” or detatched mouse-ears just in the ends\corners that are lifting. If this is occuring, its possible the other part long, thin\narrow and with holes in the middle of it is also warping off the bed at some point due to shrinkage\adhesion.
The Brims in the middle of the part certainly dont look great, not even sure its acting as “real” brims- he is using bridiging as some kind of quasi support, as it would be faster than traditional supports. I suspect this has no adhesion benefit at all - as looking at your arrows… those two spots arent touching tbe bed, are the just supporting the opposing side of the circle? Or are they really on the bed?
I have a 5hr hueforge going but after that will try and look at the part your printing on my X1C.
More on those internal “Brims”- I found this picture in the thread for the model, they deffitnely seem raised - as per this picture… I will slice and look in a few hours… but i dont think this is a) 100% necessary b) is acting as a brim at all.
I have never needed a brim on parts this large, and normally disable it as it can be frustrating to remove.
If the photo shows that the part at the top has moved (i.e. detached from the plate), then to prevent this again:
Wash the plate gently with warm water and dishwashing detergent (don’t scour it as that will damage the surface and wear the coating out prematurely).
Dry the plate with a clean dish cloth or paper towel, but don’t touch the surface.
Apply some glue all across the entire bed, systematically in even rows. Make sure to apply glue to the right rear where the purge line is printed and to the front where the automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration patterns are printed.
Avoid touching the surface of the plate when removing the printed parts(s), the purge line at the rear and the lines at the front if automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration was enabled.
The glue stops the part detaching during printing, and also acts as a release agent to make it easier to remove the print when it has cooled after printing.
I clean up plate quite regularly I would say, however according your points I see some improvements on my part, I must admit that I do not scourge, but normally touch it with the paper towels to dry them and hold very carefully to not touch with my skin from that moment on.
Glue was something what I was considering. Something I could definitely google up, but when you are here can you tell me if am I supposed to wash the plate and glue again after every printing?
Happy to help…
Glue can last for many, many prints and a small bottle lasts me months. Moving parts around the plate from one print to another will lengthen the time until the next wash and glue application are needed.
Printing leaves a pattern so it’s easy to see where there’s still an unused glue area.
Many prints can nonetheless be done in the same area without having to reapply - the glue is not “used up” in one print.
Perhaps wash and reapply before any signs of lifting or detachment if a large print is being attempted, or tiny prints without a brim, but in my experience the BL glue in the photo lasts a long time between applications.
I prefer liquid glue to glue sticks as the layer is thinner and more consistent, and I find it easier to apply than a glue stick.
Four years
The second table lists glue compatibility for different materials. I’ll always use liquid glue as it’s less messy and applies better, unless the material is PAHT-CF for DIY stuff.
The glue stick is recommended for PC, PA, PA-CF, PA-GF, PAHT-CF, PAHT-GF.
Really. I don’t think calibration lines are supposed to be done on rough PEI. The affected calibration results might affect adhesion, though it might not be a big problem. Anyway, just clean the plate, and if you happen to watch the printer as the problem happens, describe it to me.
← flow rate calibration lines
can you tell me if am I supposed to wash the plate and glue again after every printing?