from my side as i didn’t want to risk it, i did add a quick spray of 3DLAC, but to be honest i don’t think it really needed it, it was really stuck in there 
Exactly. For the textured print plate I had some prints that did not came off the plate without ripping the part into pieces. For other plates like the smooth plate I don’t need 3D Lac. But you see residues of the last prints and PLA does not stick there anymore. I have print plates that I only use with ABS/ASA for that reason.
Odd, my experience is exactly the opposite. Almost every time I start a print after accidentally forgetting use glue, it peels up. Nearly 100%. But I nearly exclusively use the textured plate, so that may play a part. Of course for PLA, TPU, and PETG I conversely never use glue and always have great adhesion.
So for any asa printing you’ve got two primary issues
- Maintaining a high temperature
- Maintaining consistent temperature around the entire print
For a non-vented setup the best thing I’ve found is fabric. Metal and glass are generally not good insulators, and the door is not perfectly sealed. Throwing a towel or other thick fabric over it helps keep temperatures higher by providing additional insulation and minimizing drafts.
That will still help with the first bullet point, but as a vent is intentionally introducing a draft it won’t help the second. For that you will need some way to quickly mix the cooler fresh air with the hot air quickly and away from your print. Unfortunately your main air intake is likely the poop chute, and since cold air falls that’s going to want to pass by anything on the plate. I would see your best options here being:
- Orient parts so that they are furthest from the primary draft point
- Circulate the air inside the chamber with a fan
- Pre-heat air coming in from the poop chute
- Close up the poop chute so that air has to enter through multiple smaller entry points, thus limiting the temperature differential at any one spot.
For 2, I’d look for something that blows air above the build plate underneath it, which I think the bento mini does. If you have a riser you might be able to put in fans designed to pull the cold air up first so it mixes with the hot air somewhat before falling
3 could be accomplished by redirecting some of the air venting out back into the chamber via the poop chute, but that does introduce the risk of vocs escaping into the room.
For 4, you could maximize the effectiveness by sealing up above the build plate better than under it.
A note on fabric choice - if you wouldn’t let a kid too young for stop, drop, and roll sleep in it, or wear it yourself while fire spinning, keep it away from the printer! If your printer catches fire you don’t want to compound the problem by adding melting, flaming polyester to the mix. 100% natural fibers only.
Turn the bed temp up 10 degrees.
A little late to the part but see here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ibda09/easy_abs_on_a1mini/
If it makes sense for your model a thin layer of PLA will increase bed adhesion even at PLA bed temps.
Tested and demonstrated here on a Prussa
whole video is good but the ABS/PLA part is at
08:51: PLA-ABS: Anti-Warping Trick
I’ve read this thread with great interest. Thank you to all that contributed. I am brand new to 3D printing, so I read, read, read and look at YouTube videos.
What an interesting idea!
Thanks for sharing!
I know right? When I found this I was really surprised it was more common knowledge. Just because of how thorough people have tested it.
One thing to keep in mind with regards to the guy using his A1-mini. While warping was reduced, I bet layer strength isn’t as good. Its worth further testing
I wonder how difficult it would be to peel off the bottom PLA layer.
Or is it something your stuck (NPI) with on your print?
I know, it should be easy to test.
I don’t think you can peel it off. The two materials adhere really well, which is why the trick works. The thinking is that a mm of PLA doesn’t have any significant change to the overall print but one should consider it for their use case.
Now that I’m thinking about it I wonder if a design could take advantage to integrate PLA into non critical areas. It could lower cost and potentially help with layer strength in a taller structure
Bed heating is often lowest at the outer edges of the plate, given the sensitivity to temperature this can lead to quite different experience printer to printer.
What I used to do for successful large ABS/ASA prints:
- 100 bed temp
- set it to 100 and let it warm up for 15 min before printing to heat up the chamber
- Set the chamber fan to 0 to prevent cold air from being sucked it
- use SMOOTH PEI sheet. ABS/ASA sticks better to smooth then textured PEI. Textured PEI was made for better releasing not for better adhesion. Alternatively use the engineering plate and NANO plate adhesive it gets stronger with heat.
- use bed clamps as large ABS prints can warp and lift.
- place the prints as far back on the print plate as possible as thats the place with most stable temperature
- Use scotch tape to seal up the front of the printer along the door seams as well as the poop chute (I actually have bambu drawers that seal the poop chute with a down pipe as well as magnetic covers for the belts tensioners) to prevent cold air from entering the chamber
- whatever you do DO NOT OPEN the front door during printing. After its done, let it sit and cool naturally for 20 min or longer so it does not get a shock from the cold air.
I use this door seal instead of tape:
Also my current and proper solution is a heated chamber, about $60 of parts on aliexpress:
I printed several cases for my “server” (Asrock Deskmini) which are about 190x190x100mm.
And acording to my experience it depends a lot on the filament itself. I had good results with no warping and minimal shrink with eSun ABS+ and ABS-HF as well with QIDI ASA Pro.
Since I tested the QIDI ASA, I prefer this for most prints where heat resistance is important.
The have nice colors as well. In my opinion it is important to preheat the print plate in homed position for about 20-30 minutes (at 100°C) and let it cool off slowly. On the textured plate the adhesion may be very stron , so you can rip apart the part. As separator 3D Lac might then be a solution. I do not activate the champer fan and do not blow out the hot aiir. Cool as less as possible.