I cleaned the plate again und tried with a different PLA on the right side. The result was the same. (the bottom surface looked good and the adhesion was also good).
I removed both nozzles, checked all screws and i loosened the front screws of the bed. Afterwards i did another calibration and started the print again.
The result was even worse. Now also the left nozzle created a rough surface on larger areas. I am also able to hear a “scratching” sound when the nozzle hits the affected area on the far left.
Start by calibrating the flow rate and observe the results. Identify the smooth top layer, then run the second flow rate test to see if you can achieve better results
Next run the flow dynamics get the K value and save it for that filament.
Dialing in the flow rate will improve quality.
If needed, you can adjust the initial layer flow ratio, but this setting is only accessible in Developer Mode you will have to turn it on in preferences.
In some situations, it may also be necessary to fine-tune the Z-offset based on the filament you’re using.
Top layer with most filaments, set the top surface line width to 0.35 mm and the top surface speed to 100 mm/s for both nozzles. This will enhance the final top appearance even more.
Since your knowledge seems deeper compared to mine, i would like to ask some questions.
My experience with Bambu so far was plug and play. Clean the plate, dry the Filament and the result will be good (thats how it is with my P1S). Besides the regular calibration i did not do anything. Thats also at least what i also expected from the H2D.
Are the P1S profiles just that good (or became good over time) and the H2D Profiles are just not there yet? I just “afraid” that this is some kind of Hardware issue i am then “stuck” with etc.
If flow rate, K values etc. are the reason, why do i see the rough surface (for example on the left side of the plate) in the same spot? I would at least think it then would be more random.
Also a question about flow dynamics. Do i have to do it for each filament (even the color - for example Bambu PLA Basic Green, Bambu Pla Basic Red etc.) or just for example for Bambu PLA Basic in general and then again for Bambu PETG-HF in general etc.?
I am also hoping for the Beta Firmware since improved first layer is mentioned there. But so far i am not offered the Beta.
I recommend ensuring the temperatures are correctly set before calibrating the K-values and flow dynamics, as any changes to temperature afterward will impact those calibrations and potentially require them to be redone.
The slicer from Bambu Studio gives you a good starting point with baseline settings for flow ratio, temperature, and max volumetric speed. However, these are just initial baseline settings. You’ll likely need to adjust the settings like flow ratio, print speeds, acceleration, layer height, layer width, and temperature or cooling parameters based on the filament and specific print conditions you’re working with. Even different colors of the same material can behave differently.
While Bambu Labs tries to automatically adjust for pressure advance, certain filament colors don’t always respond well to the auto detection system. This is why manual pressure advance test patterns are used and you would turn off the flow dynamics calibration before you print.
Other elements such as the extruder type, hotend, nozzle, and acceleration settings can also influence your results, so what works well with the PS1 setup may not necessarily yield the same results with the H2D.
Do you need to fine-tune each type and filament color? That depends on whether it’s performing as expected and the level of print quality you’re aiming for.
In the future, it’s possible that Bambu Labs will have more refined profiles for their own filaments and colors, but for now, it’s still a hands on process to fine tune the print quality.
No sadly not. It only got worse or slightly better but then other problems were added.
I gave up. I dont have the time and patience to tinker that much. I was expecting the same plug and play experience i got with my P1S. I am totally fine with tinkering a bit here and there but not this much.
Maybe i will buy again in a couple of months after they tweaked it more, maybe not.
There is no magic improvement outside the calibration! it’s a mechanical machine, with a lot of pieces moving all together very fast.
You expect perfect result cominng from heaven, it doesn’t works like this.
Perfect result comes from prefect calibration and adaptation
Just chiming in, you said you did do the filament calibrations? Were you able to get a nice smooth top layer? The first photos are definitely showing over extrusion, which can cause ripples on the first layer.
Print a 60x60x1 square and assess the top surface. Nice and smooth, good to go. Gaps or ridges, needs adjustment. I’m only recommending this because I have noticed the flow rate calibration tool to not be very accurate at the moment. Every filament I’ve tried calibrating via that tool has come out over extruding. I print a square like the one mentioned above, adjust flow rate a little bit as needed, print another one, assess, and when I get one with a good top layer it’s good to go. Kind of a pain compared to the calibration tool, but the tool doesn’t seem to work properly for me.
i did do filament calibration and did not get good results. It was also only on some (larger) areas on the bed. Support also suggested a few things which at first looked as if they did the trick but it then caused different issues.
Its sad but not a real problem. I am happy with my P1S for now.
I gotcha. Try doing that 60mm square print to get the flow rate dialed in. I don’t know what’s wrong with the slicers flow rate calibration, but I didn’t get good results either. Hopefully they look into that and get it fixed.
