Probably not best design but here is a picture of my quick solution and a youtube link to see how it works. Far from perfect and need to redo some part but maybe useful for someone to get a idea.
Daniel.
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That looks amazing. Great job man. I thought you cut a printer in half, for a second
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Well its work in progress but didn’t think about the but in half design idea but guess you have a point. But wanted some space in front since you allways want to put something down. It’s about 35cm deep. Guess it looks ok just very basic compared to some of the amazing moving/flipping/rotating designs on makerworld but these would result in longer ptfe tubes i feel.
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This looks great! You nailed the design language of the machine.
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That seriously looks awesome! Kudos!
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Great design and functionality. Hope to learn more on how you did this.
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Sure let me share some pics, the reason why i don’t want to put it on say makerworld is that it’s more a 'take what you have and add things. So here is what i did i got a garden chair thingie that was 18 euro and could handle 200lbs since i wanted it to be stable given its next to printers that like to shake about.
The well put part of it off and 3d printed some U shapes that slide in to make it stable again. Tested with some cheap kitchen slides but that would tip over.
got 3 19" server rack parts (i can share brand i wanted) 1 slide, 1U drawer and 2U drawer. i just glued then together a little and the normal attack points (in the front) created the side parts to hold them in place and give the normal screw rails. Also added the top cover with the for now name/title.
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lastly added the 2 drawers, added sides and put some black cloth on the back feed all the cables in/tubes out.
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will shift things over when the other HT units come in (backordered) and move the h2c a little (one ptfe is too short need to make a new one once i have all in place). And started on the gridfinity boxes for the nozzles/tools etc etc
Hope this helps its all very basic since most of the trust is in the cheap bench and the 19" rack parts that are rock stable and means you don’t need to print 4kg of stuff.
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Is that a Bigtreetech Panda touch all the way to the right, and do you like it? I have a modded P1P and think that it would be cool to add it sometime.
Yeah its ok but given the limits it now has i mostly use the external light and power functions you get it you also add their external powerblock thingie. But check the limit of what it still can do under the new software before you but it. Not sure if i would today.
Thank you for your post. I’ve been in IT since the 90’s and never would have thought to use a rack this way.
I just ordered a rack, 2 slide out shelves and a 10-outlet pdu with surge suppression.
You gave me great inspiration 
You are welcome. Using 19" rack parts is very cost effective and you know its build sturdy simply because in a datacenter it has to be able to take some load and abuse.
You can post the results in this thread so it helps other later on if you want.
Daniel.
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Daniel, I hope you don’t mind a follow up with advice for others. BTW, when my parts come in I will post photos. It will not be as fancy as your build as I don’t have plans for panels and such.
So here are some tips for others. I have over 30 years IT experience and have worked in data centers as well as building out server rooms for enterprise businesses and the govt…
- 42U racks in data centers are no comparison for what you’ll find on Amazon and other sites.
- Read all the specs. and reviews of your planed rack purchase and trays. I spent about an hour making my selections on Amazon due to hidden pitfalls of lower cost items.
- A 4 post is better than a 2 post.
- Make sure the rack has “Tapped screw holes and are us standard sizing (if you are in USA) and make sure it supports cage nuts. It’s fine to get one with cage nuts only as that is a universal thing.
- Referring to # 4 make sure the post can rotate to cage or threaded. Cheaper ones are welded making them single purpose.
- Check the top and bottom to see how many “U’s” you loose due to how it’s made. I choose a 16U as it’s about the height of an H2.
- Get a PDU (power distribution unit) with surge protection that mounts in the rack I like 10 outlet models.
- Screw holes vary in size and thread. You’ll need more, so be sure of what you have.
- Stick with a 19” rack as more parts are available than an audio style rack.
I’m not posting what I purchased yet as I want to make sure I can recommend it before posting.
Hope this helps the community.
Indeed my plan was not really to make a 19" rack it just sort of made sense to use these parts so i am looking forward to your solution. Maybe if i would do it again i would have fully gone that route and still would try to add the sides to make it look the same since i wanted the more matched look.
Daniel.
Using this microwave stand for $25, you easily accommodate an AMS and a AMS HT on each level. By removing the wire that connects the back support and move one of them higher, you have more clearance to open the AMS lids on the bottom level. The end result a very sturdy but inexpensive AMS stand that can hold 2 AMS and 2 AMS HT.
I guess you can use many parts to build it but keep in mind in my example the bottom one is on a slide that can come out 100% so you can open the ams on the lower rack thats a important part of why i went the 19" rack slider and 2 drawers.
Daniel.