Perhaps!
I fully dry PETG-CF (the purchased one is not fully dried) and then I print out of enclosed box where there is 10-15% of humidity. Perhaps that helps with my ability to achieve good PETG-CF prints.
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Thanks for this explanation @Stu ! It helps to understand how something like this could happen.
Thanks for the feedback @djeZo888 ! Iâll be sure to keep this information in my back pocket for when I start using higher melting temp materials.
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I agree to a point. I used the original software. Most of whats in orca ends up in the vanilla bambu slicer eventually anyway. Also yes the P1P and X1C âjust work.â Even better Iâd say than a prusa. Iâve seen plenty of reviews, and talked to trusted friends in the field about my purchase. For the price of a prusa you donât even get wifi or ethernet connectivity. You have to source out raspis and load firmware, print parts yourself with the brand new printer you just got in order to make it complete and bring it into the 21st century. All that for yes over a thousand dollars. My p1p was ready to go out the box for $700. The only thing that makes a BL âtemperamentalâ is that fact that it is so fast and thatâs asking alot of a 3dp. Not to mention you are allowed to screw up its settings if you wish. Itâs not an apple product.
As far as community goes- well I know nothing of any other brands community but BLâs seems to be pretty decent already and they came out the gate with a very robust wiki which I very much appreciated as a newbie. Most of my bad experiences (not all) can be chalked up to my inexperience in the end with these things.
If you never had a Prusa you donât know what âjust workâ means for 3D printers, trust me!
I am quite happy now with my Bambu X1C because I see the pros and I learned to handle some of the cons. But anyway maybe the Prusa Mk3 or even the Mk4 has some things that he cannot offer, but I stay with my opinion that it just works as delivered, even when you build it toghether yourself. I mean imagine that, everybody that can hold a screwdriver can assemble that thing with a handbook that leaves no questions for assembly and after complete it just delivers. Bambus printers come assembled and hopefully tested and tuned and still you need to tweak the â â â â out of it.
At least as I always say, when you print prototypes and advanced models and not only cats, flower pots and action heroes.
With my Prusa I didnât even change the default profiles which come with the slicer. Sometimes I tried to tune things, but I always came back to the default settings because they worked with overhangs, bridges and all the other advanced stuff that come with mechanical parts.
Really trust me it works like no other printer I ever owned and I had it for 3 or 4 years with 900 hours of printing on it. And in those 900 hours I almost never changed a belt, barely cleaned and lubricated and I had maybe 3-4 nozzles in that time without using abrasive materials.
Today I am still tuning my Bambu for PETG-CF regarding overhangs and bridges.
A good test would be a test like this:
Try printing the landy mini from 3DSets (Printables) and tell me your Bambu managed it with default slicing profiles and lets say PETG and not PETG-CF (too hard) or PLA (too easy). The Prusa I once had spit it out completly with no part failing in the first try in PETG.
Post a photo of your printed landy mini using default profiles, when finished and I will never say a word again that the Bambu X1C is too expensive for what he wants to beâŚ!
Edit: Just finshed another try to print these parts to get a profile that can do overhangs with PETG-CF! 
If you want try yourself itâs a small file from the link above called âfender-flare-front-left.stlâ
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Looks like Bambu released a new PTEG with claims that it prints significantly nicer than the previous version:
I havenât printed PTEG yet on the Bambu but am glad there seems to be some help with these problems being reported in this thread.
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Ok i went total default, slicer, settings, calibrations everything. I only changed the layer height to 0.2 and first layer to 0.28 as I am using a 0.6mm nozzle. I did not realize from your pics how small this part was. Not sure why you would ever print this kind of part in petg-cf. It will break very easily. At any rate I gave it a go. Sooo it appears it âjust works.â I am confident I can do better with my customized settings. Also camera photos pick up imperfections the human eye does not so keep it in perspective. All that considered Iâve had my share of issues with prints but almost all of them can be traced back to me changing things FROM the default settings. I do ALOT of overhangs for commercial use parts that will be sold. Since I never used any bambu filament till this one I never used default settings. They didnât have a profile for inland or atomic. But after struggling with petg overhangs- I went to default settings for the heck of it and I started getting perfect overhangs every time. Mind you, I do the most impossible overhangs- curved-mid air. I did find that more walls, less âbridgesâ and default cooling made all the difference.
This Topic is about the CF Version.
Normal PETG prints well on the X1C.
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Thank you for the correction. Apologies for the mixup and good to know that standard PETG hasnât been an issue.
I just printed it with PETG-CF to tune my overhang settings with that material and my 0.4 nozzle and because I like the look of PETG-CF when it comes out nice. So I use it often for parts that need to look good and I donât care about strength.
Your result looks really good but it was a 0.6 nozzle maybe that works better. I have a 0.6 nozzle laying around and maybe i should give it a try too.
I did a test with normal Prusament PETG and it also came out very good, so again we are at the topic why is PETG-CF not working as expected with 0.4 nozzle size and who has a profile that âjust worksâ?
I could try a 0.4 i guess too. Itâs not recommended though. Literally says on the BL website not to use a 0.4mm so my interpretation of that is that It might work if you have the knowledge needed to super-tune it but there is no âjust worksâ profile.
For me I need the all 3 aspects to be in my favor- strength, speed, and looks. The company I am partnering with to bring my designs to market are looking for close to IM appearance. Basically no layer lines. So i too landed on this beautiful stuff.I am going to be building a 500mm Ratrig soon as well to print my larger design so that will give an interesting comparison as well. Might even try an 0.8mm too.
Iâll finally add this little nugget as well- I just did a couple test prints of large circular parts with mild overhangs and changed my filament settings (in order to further reduce oozing) to incorporate this change- Max Volumetric speed from 14 to 20. Then increased 2nd layer onward temps to 260c. I figure if there is too much filament coming out at once, then lets use it. The extra speed is a bonus. And wouldnât you know it- no oozing at all. This was using orca and my custom settings. Itâs not perfect when doing those very fine edges at the top of an overhang but its close and considering this printed in an hour-canât complain. If we could get a 0.4mm to work with this stuff that edge would be pretty good.
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I have printed your part. Here is my result with 0.4 nozzle. The part came out perfect, it could not have been better. If I wanted it better, Iâd need to use smaller nozzle, but for PETG-CF that is not suggested.
I tried 0.6 nozzle with PETG-CF and there were no benefits, just reduction in quality. Since I had no clogging issues at all, I decided to keep using 0.4.
PETG-CF prints perfectly fine with the 0.4 nozzle.
Flow and PA values? Speeds?
I donât know what happen I was printing Bambu PETG-CF perfect on bambuâs presets for the first 1/4 spool and now Iâm seeing the same nozzle build up and random imperfections in my prints, EVERYTIME I use it I dry it for 8-12 hours. I even tried doing all the calibrations in orca slicer, and slowing down, after I started having problems. Maybe the issue was always there and I wasnât doing complex-long prints for the first 1/4 spool. To be fair PETG-CF really is not all that great of a material IMO, Iâm having way better luck with pa/pc cf witch has way better properties for what I need. I know someone will need the PETG-CF material properties for their own reasons. From what I have seen with using generic profiles in Bambu studio that they seemed to be also spot on 90% of the time for what I have been using. Coming from Cura and Creality printers with the sonic pad, the whole Bambu eco system is just as idiot proof as you can get in 3d printting.
Well I just came back here and after reading the last few comments decided to check my print job and sure enough, there was about half inch of buildup on the nozzle at about the 2h40m mark. Its a 4 hr print. So increasing my max vol flow rate along with higher temp did not solve the problem permanently. So iâm not sure whats going on here then. It seems the common thread among everyone is that it prints great the first few prints and then gets mucked up. As I posted above I did prints equally as long but right after changing the gears and hot end and there was no buildup. FYI I dried every spool 8hrs at 65c prior to use so that is not the issue either.
Maybe a high temp grease can be applied to the tip of the nozzle?
I am going to try some Phaetus aeWorthy from Fabreeko-anyone else tried that yet? I need a comparison at a similar price. There is always atomic which Iâm sure is great but thatâs a steep price increase for the parts I need to sell.
Can you also tell something about the infill %? I tried to print some pieces using infill 5-10%. Prints went well even if the top layers âcollapsedâ on the infill space gap.
I printed a tower, as you can see in the below pictures. Overall quality isnât bad but, as I wrote above, the top layers are very ugly. Have you any tips about how improve the pieces quality?
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I posted about this some time ago if you scroll up, Iâve been experimenting with the plastic repellent from Slice ever since and regular PTFE-coat based dry lubricants that hold to 270°C as well.
The one that works the best was that stuff from Slice, which made no significant difference, however. It helps for some time but rubs off pretty quickly, not to mention that dumb ânozzle cleaningâ move Bambu printers do for every print on that little flap in the back of the build plate. I suspect that just rubs off the coating directly before the print has even started.
Sadly little to no luck with this approach, at least for me.
if you use verly low infill % you need more top layers to hide the sackingâŚor if possible highter coolingâŚ
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I know it, but if the amount of top or bottom layers is high, you can have some issues caused by the filament attach on hotend