I tried the PAHT-CF now and it looks alomst the same like PETG-CF is ultra strong, you need to tweak support settings to get them off and it prints like a charm, overhangs, bridges and overall looks beautiful so far with a new spool and default profiles from Bambu. And I did not dry the spool before using it… The only problem is the price tag of these spools, otherwise it would become my favorite material so far.
I second PAHT-CF. Awesome stuff. Black Aluminum. A real engineering material. The texture hides the layers so it doesn’t have as much of that “3DP” look. It is kind of harsh for anything that people will hand hold much, though.
I still have not been able to print PETG-CF - get blobs before it finishes the extrusion calibration. Been meaning to sit down try the various suggestions in a methodical fashion.
Have you tried downgrading the firmware back to the previous version?
- try manually dail in the Filament…all the automatic extrusion calibration is not optimal on PETG. same with 1st layer inspection…one fat blob on your print and it can cause a layer shift on 2.nd layer
Thanks. PETG generic prints pretty well. It’s just the Bambu PETG-CF that blobs up for me.
I’m having a time with Bambu’s PETG-CF too, is there a known issue with the current firmware?
I’m having the same issues with a fully dried roll of Eryone PETG Carbon Fiber so I think the issues are with the material and not specific to Bambu filament. I absolutely love the PLA-CF but wanted something I could use on outdoor parts. I guess I’ll stick to the ASA for now as that prints perfectly for me. The “oozing” is just unstoppable with this filament.
I second that… It’s like it has COVID
Could the AMS buffer unit have something to do with it? Doubt it since the extruder comes afterwards… just a thought
I ran calibrations on the Phaetus aeWorthy PETG-CF today and then a 90min print with some mild bridging. No drying beforehand but the parts came out flawless. No blobbing. There was a mild buildup on the nozzle but nothing more than what I would see even with PLA. I will report back when I am halfway through the spool and doing longer prints circa 3hrs. This is all while the humidity is 99% for the last week in my town.
No. I have the same issues and I dont have the AMS
I get this with certain colors of PETG, in particular Hatchbox PETG white. Lower the flow rate. I also find that the nozzle tip cleaner doesn’t do a very good job of removing those stringies.
So I had today some really great big prints with PETG-CF and wondered what changed. Nozzle collected not very much filament and the overall print looks super clean. I then realized the following changes in my printer setup, as I didn’t print for a while with PETG-CF and was annoyed to search for good settings, I completely forgot about the problem with PETG-CF.
So these are the changes since I opened the thread:
- Set the print temp to 260 °C
- Infill Gyroid 15-20%
- Auxilliary fan to 20%
- Chamber fan about 60-70%
- 0.6mm nozzle instead of 0.4mm ( I just used the 0.6mm because my 0.4 got damaged, so this was just a lucky shot)
- and the most important setting I think I changed was the seam position which was always “Lined up” or “backside” and I changed it for TPU to “next” and never changed it back so also pure luck.
The rest is standard settings from the Bambu PETG_CF profile
Maybe somebody else can verify if he gets better results with these settings too.
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Glad to hear you (as OP) got the problem solved.
However, as far as I understood after continuously monitoring/following this thread, the .6mm nozzle might be the most important change that might have fixed the problem for you. Hardly anybody using a .6mm nozzle complained about this behavior.
I’m affected aswell by it on my enclosed P1P using hardened gearset + hardened .4mm nozzle. The most important changes for me were:
- disabling Z-hopping on layer change and before travel
- increase retraction distance + speed
- raising the temp to max. recommended 270°C
I will have the chance throughout the next days to try additional changes because I need to print some height adjustable feets for a new kitchen cupboard. Things I want to try:
- decreasing flow ratio / flow multiplier (currently 0.897) as I see a lot of excess filament being extruded and probably being picked up by the nozzle
- decreasing line width(s) (currently default settings)
The current running print is by now ~70% done, with not too much filament buildup at the nozzle (at least I did not yet need to pause the print and clean the nozzle). Quality so far looks amazing in my opinion. If y’all curious I can share some photos once this part is finished.
EDIT: before somebody asks: yes, my filament has been dried after unpacking (as per BL instruction) and I’m printing it while it’s still being dried in the dryer 
I agree the 0.6mm nozzle may be the key. I’m using Eryone PETG-CF and got it dialed in on the 0.6mm nozzle but can’t get the 0.4mm nozzle to work consistently.
For the record, the key for me on the Eryone filament was LOWERING the print temps. I ran all the Orca slicer calibrations and came up with 0.815 flow ratio and 0.038 pressure advance which is wildly different from all the other filaments I have tuned.
I would love to see some images
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I am using the phaetus aeworthy petg-cf and just did a 3-4 hr print. I removed a small blob at about 1 hr in and it barely got worse by the end. At the moment I would say this one performs better in that respect but not perfect. I have not dried it either. Going to try drying it next and see what happens.
Is there a way of adding to the gcode for it to clean the print head every so often?
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There is a way to add custom gcode on specific layers that you can freely choose. If you add the commands that are performed when you manually pause the print, it will perform a nozzle purge and clean. But that might not always work, because sometimes the filament wipe doesn’t properly get rid of the filament on the nozzle. Maybe the filament cleaning method needs to improve by adding a brass wire brush.
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Ok so this other petg-cf filament does blob also however its about half as bad and this is after drying. I am leaning towards the conclusion that this kind of plastic needs to be dried TWICE. Once initially and then once again when you get halfway through the spool. It also seems like certain types of prints cause more problems. For instance doing triangles upside down where the nozzle moves back and forth across the same section multiple times in a short distance appears to cause more buildup. When doing circular objects where the toolhead can move around and around in circles without backtracking it seems less likely to collect on the nozzle as well.