This filament (Bambu’s PETG-CF) is simply hot garbage. Other PETG-CF from other vendors works far better. This whole thread is evidence of this, but if you need more, people who have tuned this stuff even recommend against it: Printables
I demanded and got my money back.
I use the Bambulab .4 mm Nozzle (hardened steel) and also have problems with the Bambulab PETG CF. Since I don’t want to change to the .6 mm Nozzle, I would be interested in your experiences with other filaments.
Which brands do you use successfully with the .4 mm nozzle?
I’ve gone through 4 spools of Bambu PETG-CF so far with .4 and .6 hardened steel hotends. The .4 is much more problematic than the .6. I can get good prints most of the time, but I ALWAYS have a lot of buildup on the nozzle. Yesterday I tried a print with the .6 I’ve been using for a few weeks and couldn’t make it past the first layer without failure. I’ve been exclusively printing the same item (a large battery enclosure) with this material. Put a brand new .6 on and still had buildup, but no failure on a ~10 hour print. I’m thinking these nozzles are either getting really dirty or scuffed up internally due to the carbon fiber leading to issues after repeated use. Going to try thoroughly cleaning the original .6 nozzle up as best I can to see if it can make it through another print with it.
Sorry maybe I missed it. If you’re printing anything with PETG, the answer usually is, raise your z.
PETG likes to stick to 2 things, more petg and the nozzle.
Wisps are death over time.
Add G29.1 Z0.03 to your filament startup code to raise z by .03(you may have to raise or lower by .01 until you get the sweet spot, mine was .03). It has to be kinda dropped onto the print, you can’t smear it like other filaments.
Also, you might download this to prevent wisps being dragged onto the playing field.
I spent a lot of time on PETG previously, it’s the bane of my existence.
Probably I found a possible solution. I spent about 3 days to find the perfect settings and I found this article on bambu wiki even if it is for PA/PAHT-CF: Printing Tips for Engineering materials like PAHT-CF | Bambu Lab Wiki
This is the result after following the instruction:
That’s a really nice looking part.
I’ve seen a few references to this part but it looks like it’s gone from Thingiverse. What was it?
Hey! Designer of this model here, and also former Markforged employee where all we printed was CF-filled (Onyx) filament. Can confirm the pair are not a great combo unfortunately.
I do think you’d have a lot better success with my recent redesign, which uses totally different vertical hinge pieces that will be less prone to curling/failing than the model pictured in your post.
New one here if you’d like to check it out: Ultimate Fidget Infinity Cube: Angled Pack
Hi, thanks for your answer. When I find some free time, I’ll try to print your new version using also the appropriate settings!
Tagging this for interest
hi guys, i had met this problem too. I have already solve it, here is what i found and how i resolve it.
i find every time when printing infill, infill will bend up and attach to nozzle, and finally cause havoc, even if the surface looks good, the internal structure is a mess and strength decrease a lot.
so i slow down the speed of printing sparse infill to 100mm, and turn on the auxiliary fan to 70%, the final result pretty good.
hope this could help some of u puzzled by nozzle collecting filament
What temp did you end up using for the Eryone?
I posted this in another thread but in your printer config set the z offset to 0.05 and blobbing goes away completely. I also agree that slowing down the infill helps with whisps and edges of infill not attaching to walls.
I had similar issue with normal bambu petg. The printer stopped and said it had dedected spaghetti, but there wasn’t any. I continued printing. But next time it complained during calibration. And then I saw it. Not as worse as in your case, but enough.
Maybe I should dry the filament again.
I’ve only had my X1C about a month, but here are some things I have noticed. I’m using the texture PEI plate and ASM.
The wiper does not like to clean the head very well. I think the temp being used for that is too low. I WAS using the default settings and the 0.2mm Strength @BBL X1C settings. Only change is I add a 2.5mm brim so corners do not curl up.
Using Bambu Lab PETG-CF prior to 01.07.02.00, I was getting stringing and under extrusions. Using Tinmorry PETG-CG I was getting perfect prints but still the build up on the nozzle. Post 01.07.02.00 with the default settings the Bambu Lab PETG-CF was getting less stringing but still under extrusions(gaps in walls). Tinmorry PETG-CF would no longer adhear to the textured PEI plate. I found that making two changes solves everything but the buildup around the nozzle, however the buildup stays out of the way and has not caused an issue. Is there a setting for how often the printer will do a wipe while printing? I’m also going to try @wiremeup suggestion for the z offset. I increased the nozzle temp from 255C to 260C and the bed temp for the first layers from 70C to 75C. Bambu Lab PETG-CF has some very minor stringing now but no under extrusions, and the Tinmorry PETG-CF prints absolutely perfect.
I need to get pictures up, but I’m also noticing that some people posting pictures have noticeable layer lines. I do not. You have to look to find the layer lines. Most of my prints people would be hard pressed to tell they were 3D printed.
I have a few other brands of PETG-CF ordered and will do some comparing. I think there is still some fine tuning to do.
This may need a separate topic if there is not one already, but if I stop a print, the timelaps video is unplayable, making it useless for troubleshooting.
You will almost always see layer lines with a high resolution camera/photograph. But to the naked eye they are not visible.
So here is a photo from where I was getting under extrusion with Tinmorry PETG-CF after the most recent update.
This was the stringing I was getting with Bambu Lab PETG-CF prior to the update.
Making the adjustments to a bed temp of 75C and Nozzle temp of 260 with the removing the -0.04 z offset for textured PEI plate I get these prints:
If I use the Tinmorry PETG-CG Marble Grey, I have to revert to the -0.04 z offest or it fails to adhere to the bed.
I have also noted that the bed does not heat evenly. There is a decent difference in the temp at the edge of the plate vs the center. I’m guessing the X1C has a single heating element that does not go all the way to the edges? My solution for that is to pre-heat the bed to 80C then let it print the first 3 layers at 75C. It’s set to drop to 60C after the first 3 layers but does not seem to do that. I’m guessing there is a setting I have wrong or missed reading something on how to get that working.
It’s important to keep a log book with the following information when you print so you are better able to pin dow exact issues.
Printer Firmware at time of print:
Slicer software, and version at time of print.
Filament Manufacture.
Filament Type.
Filament Color.
Filament Purchase Date.
Filament Model.
Filament Batch or serial number.
All settings.
Date print head was installed.
An unmodified copy of the project that was printed.
I have been able to make minor changes depending on the filament, and have my own library of filament settings now.
I’d like to see the the nozzle wiper replaces with brash mesh like used for cleaning soldering iron tips. I’m also adding temp and humidity control to my ASM and probbably the print chamber as well.
Apologies, I reposted that at one point
or
I’m actually pretty happy it’s working out for others. Someone said it’s the only thing they could find that PETG-CF worked with.
Going to share my experience in case it helps anyone. I use the standard 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle and the default Bambu PETG-CF profile with a textured PEI plate. The only change I made was bump up the bed temp from 70 to 75, and nozzle temp from 255 to 260. Everything else is default including the fan speed.
Initially, i changed the fan speed to 40% min/30sec and 90% max/6s but found the nozzle pulling the previous layer off the print on the odd occasion as it was laying down new filament, presumably due to poor layer adhesion. This also had the effect of gooping the nozzle with filament. I quickly changed back to the default fan profile which worked much better.
I also tried changing the z-offset from -0.04 to 0.03 as some suggested but found that I had bed adhesion issues. Changed that back to stock immediately.
The nozzle temp made the biggest difference. I found running it hotter meant the filament didnt have a chance to cool fast enough to start gooping on the nozzle. I’ve gone through 2x 1kg rolls printing large parts up to 10 hours and have no filament collecting on the nozzle and it prints wonderfully without any artifacts or stringing.
What temperature did you use in the end? Less than 255?
