Nozzle Crashes into infill after Filament Swap on P1P - Help!

Hello BambuLabs community :smiley: !

I’ve been enjoying my BambuLab P1P printer for three weeks with GREAT


success, producing high-quality prints. However, I’ve encountered a persistent issue that started after changing the filament when my previous spool ran out mid-print. The attached image showcases the problem quite clearly.

When the problem started: The issues began right after I introduced a new spool of Copymaster PLA, which had previously worked perfectly. Since then, all prints have been failing in the same manner.

Symptoms: The nozzle seems to be colliding with the print’s infill, leading to crushed and mangled layers as depicted in the photo. The damage is concentrated in certain areas, indicating that the nozzle is not maintaining the proper height above the print.

Actions taken so far:

  • Lowered the bed temperature from 65°C to 55°C with no improvement.
  • Re-calibrated the printer, but the problem persists.

Printer settings:

  • Initially used Copymaster PLA with Bambu PLA Basic setting in the slicer for three weeks with outstanding results. Switched to the green PLA roll included with the printer and continued to receive great prints. Upon switching back to Copymaster PLA, this problem occurred.

Could this be an issue with the filament, a mechanical problem after the filament swap, or something else? I’m at a loss and would greatly appreciate any guidance or suggestions from anyone who might have experienced something similar.

Thank you in advance for your assistance!

//Matt

If you looking for guidance and assistance might I suggest searching the forums here.

You may find this is a very common problem, ie, when filament runs out mid print. Read up regarding all of those experiences and you may just find what you are looking for.

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Hi Moon, it may be because you are trying to print several objects simultaneously with a cubic infill. This infill crosses over itself every layer, so it inherently adds more filament than a single pass. Have you tried other infill settings? I suggest gyroid. Alternatively, you could print fewer parts at once so the last layer has less time to cool. Once the previous layer solidifies, the next layer won’t have the chance to soften it; using an interfering infill will cause breakage. Furthermore, you can see no damage to your outside walls, so the chances that your printer is at the wrong height are low; it is more likely that the infill is too high.

Good luck, please let us know when you find a solution!

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Agree with the cubic infill. Maybe possible to add/adjust z hop, if cubic is required.

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As stated above, it must just be due to the grid infill, this infill uses two 90° passes of filament on the same layer which gives a slightly higher point than the layer height at each intersection. When the filament is still warm, it’s fine going over it but when it had times to dry, the nozlle will scratch each of those points. You can use rectilinar instead which is the same as grid but each 90° pass is on a different layer which makes it a little less strong of course but may be enough for your application or as stated use gyroid. Prusa has a nice knowledge base on infills here: Infill patterns | Prusa Knowledge Base

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