I’m having an issue with my 3D printer. While printing a model, the nozzle sometimes hits or scrapes over certain parts of the print. This happens intermittently during the print process.
Before starting the print, I made sure to calibrate the bed and the Z-offset properly. I also performed routine maintenance, including lubrication of all moving parts. Despite this, the nozzle still collides with the print in some areas.
Has anyone experienced something similar? What could be causing this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Usually, this is caused by bad flow rate calibration. Too much flow will leave buildups on the print, and potentially build up on the nozzle until it’s grabbed by the print leaving a blob the nozzle hits when it comes around on the next layer.
This is more common than you might think. Especially if you use grid infill, or suffer warping that causes the print to lift off the bed a tiny amount.
Try:
Check for warping or poor bed adhesion, and find a way to fix those if they’re a problem.
Use a rectilinear or other infill pattern instead of grid.
The grid infill documentation says:
The grid infill consists of two sets of parallel lines intersecting perpendicularly, forming a crosshatch mesh. It is one of the simplest and fastest infill types.
However, the overlapping intersections can cause slight material buildup, and during high-speed printing, this may lead to nozzle scraping or abnormal noises due to collisions with the model.
I hope you can help a newbie with this topic and give me some tips. I have a similar problem. I recently bought a textured PEO plate. However, the nozzle hitting the print only affects the bottom layer. The one where the texture is visible is where you can see the scratches. On the opposite side, however, everything looks perfect. So the other layers must have been applied well. I’ve already printed at different quality levels, changed the height of the first layer, changed Z Hop, but nothing helps. What would you suggest I should try?
from a pure material perspective if your infill is at the recommended setting around 15% there shouldn’t be a problem with the nozzle itself though the real bottleneck is the filament pipe above the nozzle which isnt very thick and may be bent depending on how hard it hits and how long this is going on…
upd.: I tried recti, line, grid, gyroid, lightning (even there scraping…)
the only one that had ZERO scraping so far is gyroid (10%)
@johnfcooley
The plate can be used on both sides: Both sides have a smooth surface, which leaves a pattern (carbon or mesh). Can’t describe it better, but the offset should be the same.
@johnfcooley & @Ahmet_YILDIZ
I’ll try playing with the infill options - thank you very much for the tip!
In another thread those plates came up. They suck. Well in my humble opinion they suck. I thought you were talking about the dual sided BL plate, texture/smooth. My bad.
As the advice given there, you may want to start upping the temp on the plate by 5 degrees until you see some improvement. I wouldn’t go over 65 though. The can be the culprit with warping and you must keep them clean. I have 4 that I build a little house for all my regrets to live in.
I need to expand.
Success! I have changed the infill pattern and the bottom surface pattern to “hilbert curve”. I also increased the temperature to 65 °C. Although this pattern is somehow visible if you look closely, there are no longer any actual scratches left on the surface of the print. And the texture with the mesh comes across well. So this is a significant improvement for me.
The downside, however, is that it tripled the printing time…
Try crosshatch if you need some more strength, but drop the infill lto about 3-4 less than you usually would. Gyroid is a favorite over grid, as is cubic. The times vary but looks like gyroid is the only one close to Hilbert. Gyroid would be better and stronger.
These of course depend on what it is you’re printing. I wouldn’t use Cubic on a small model. or low infill. I have become a fan of Cross Hatch over gyroid though. It’s a particularly strong infill and need less percentage to strength as the others in my opinion. Remember, in MY opinion, Play around with them on different size models and see for yourself.
To keep from seeing the infill increase the top layer count. Just do tests and add 1 layer at a time. Gyroid and Cross Hatch won’t need as many as say Cubic. Depending on model.
Gyroid seemed the only option so far where it didnt happen for me, I also struggle with that since I got the printer 1month ago, have you tried that?
all grid like infills caused issues, including even lightning…
