Nylon and Carbon filament

Hello creative people,

I have some question about this filament because there is an order to print something stronger parts, like gear. Never done this before, only PLA, ABS and TPU so far.

  1. I have P1S 0.4 with all the standart nozzle, extruder and enclosure. is that enough to print this 2 type of filaments? or i must upgrade the nozzle and extruder?
  2. the cheapest one that i can buy is Sunlu PLA 20% Carbon and Sunlu easy PA Nylon. are these 2 type filament good? is 20% carbon enough?
  3. in the bambu studio, there is an option for bambu PLA-CF but I can’t find bambu PA, only bambu PA-CF. is PA and PA-CF the same setting?

any help will greatful… thank you

You need a hardened steel nozzle. They are an inexpensive upgrade. If you use your current nozzle it will be worn down VERY quickly.

Also you will need the extruder gears. You should be replacing them with hardened steel(P1S comes with stainless steel).
You should keep looking. PA is only nylon, PA-CF means there is added carbon fiber.
You would also beware that the carbon fiber filaments generally have worse layer adhesion. Most of them are worse than PLA-Basic adhesion. So you will have to orient your prints well.

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After all the upgrade for your p1s and all, you may still find it hard to print Nylon/Nylon CF. Nylon needs chamber temperature of 60°C at least to reduce warp and corner lifting.

The stock nozzle is stainless steel, not ideal for long run but it’s just not that soft like brass nozzle.

I can’t see any stainless steel 0.4mm option available in the bambulab store… are we sure the preinstalled nozzle isn’t hardened steel?

The machining cost for stainless steel and hardened steel is pretty much the same if you order in big volume. But for small machining order they can save a few cent over a dollar when shipping printer with stainless steel nozzle.

Secondly, to deliberately limit what P1P/P1S can print in order to promote X1C, they ship P1P/P1S with stainless steel nozzle and stainless steel extruder.

One more trick of BBL is to throw in a free nozzle, but without fan and without heater/thermistor. This freebie is kind of 99% useless. Users usually damage the thermistor while moving heater/thermistor to the spare hotend and end up buying the whole hotend assembly anyway.

It could always change, but it the past they have always been stainless. The color of the heatsink on the hardened is black. Or did you mean surreptitiously replaced with hardened so that they have to only manufacture one nozzle which they can put into 2 different head assemblies and charge more money?

i’m just saying that they don’t sell stainless steel 0.4mm hotends for the p1s in the store. that led me to think that maybe they don’t have those and are shipping the printers with hardened steel 0.4mm hotends preinstalled.

the spare one that came with the printer seems kinda dark to me (hardened steel should be dark) but I don’t have anything to compare it to in order to be sure

They use to sell them. I bought a bunch when they were being discontinued, they have some specialized uses.

You could try magnet on yours to see if it is hardened or not, stainless usually isn’t magnetic.

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They may be out of stock, or just selling hardened now. On the US store they do have a .2 stainless right now. The moral of the story is though a hardened steel nozzle is cheap and you really shouldn’t print abrasive filaments without them. The very abrasive filaments can actually wear down a stainless nozzle in a single spool.

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I just updated the first of my 4 P1S printers today.

The P1S comes with stainless steel gears, a fitted stainless steel complete hit end and a spare stainless steel hit end (not complete).

I put off doing this as I thought my hand tremors would cause issues.

It wasn’t easy for me, but, not too hard either.

Able-bodied people will be fine.

I bought:

  • Hardened steel gears
  • Hardened steel complete hit end (three times the cost) far easier to fit.

Use this guide. It is the best they have, worked for me. Just ignore the clog bit.

https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/extruder-clog

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wow… thank you for all the adviced…

it seems that, printing nylon or carbon need to think a lot. upgrade complete hardened steel in my country cost around $45-50, not the original though… but the review from other people sounds a good one…

but, Like other people here said, is only the extruder and nozzle only, the fan and the thermistor sold seperately… the fan looks like very hard to find in my country, always out of stock…

well, maybe I just stick with ABS, PLA and TPU… but my brain iching to try that other “unique” filaments… hahaha…

You don’t need a new fan and thermistor if you are mechanically inclined. You can swap them. But if you are not comfortable with that, I totally get it!

no problem with me… i do all the time if I want to switch from 0.4 to 0.6… but as with other mechanical thing, something that always swap and replace multiple times, I am just afraid it will break down or accidentally snap the wire…

I just wonder… why bambu not made the nozzle changing for P1S as the same easy as the A1…

P1S is older. Nozzle change tech is new with A1.

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As @movingimage said.

Maybe the new printer due in the next three months will benefit from the improvements they included in the A series printers.

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He could build something like the bambu sauna or you can just route a space heater on a temperature probe into the printer