Has anyone used the OVV3D PLA+Wood filament in an A1 mini? What did you have to do to get it work work OK? I purchased some but haven’t tried it yet. It looks like the nozzle temperature needs to be low (190C) and the speeds slowed down. The label on the spools say 25-100mm/s but their info on the Amazon product information page actually says 25-45 mm/s!
Did you have to do anything else to get it to print well? Did you do any other calibration? I haven’t done any of that other than the initial setup and I do the extrusion flow check (or whatever it is called) before every print.
The A1 mini is my 1st 3D printer and I have had it a little over a month. Over 500 hrs on it so far, so I have been using it a lot, but this is my first time with any filament that doesn’t either have a built-in setting or is generic PLA.
Wood filament is hard to use with any printer.
A few things want to look out for are, try to find models that don’t use support.
Wood is very stringy, so models that have don’t have any bridging is good.
So basically, flat models, bowls, vases…things of that nature.
Can’t speak for the A1m but I used the OVV3D in my X1C using the settings on the spool sticker and it worked great. I did a few spiral vase mode planting pots and a few little trinkets and had no issues at all.
I set it up with 190C nozzle, 65C bed and max 100mm/s and my first try looked like the filament might be wet (left one in picture), so I dried at 55C for 12 hours and got a much better result (right one). There was a visible change in color after drying as well, although it is hard to see in the picture. There is a very visible seam but I have seen that with regular PLA with this model (a pawn from a chess set), so I don’t think I can blame that on the filament, although if anyone has any ideas on how to reduce the seam visibility (I have tried random and nearest and they look worse) I would love to hear about it. Overall I am happy and am going to go ahead and make the rest of the chess set.
I ended up slowing the outside walls to 25 mm/s and got acceptable results, EXCEPT, that the .4mm nozzle keeps clogging. 3 times I have had 8+hr prints stop extruding during the print. My A1 mini keeps chugging along and says it has successfully printed (running overnight), but the parts stopped building long ago. The OVV3D PLA+Wood filament claims to be 30% wood, which is higher than most, which may be causing problems. I am going to try a 0.6mm nozzle at some point, but I am done with it for now. I did manage to get a full chess set printed, but I was hoping to do more.
I should say that I did get a response from OVV3D. Maybe I should try a bit higher nozzle temp. I have been running a 190C and they recommended 195-200C. They said to use the Matte PLA profile and that speeds up to 200mm/s should be fine. So maybe I should experiment some more.
Clogging is probably a result of the fibers mixed in the PLA. Some manufacturers use wood fibers, others use what amounts to saw dust to fill the filament. Those particles are inconsistant, especially if the filament is cheap, and moreso when it’s around 30%. These can easily clog a .4 nozzle. I suggest trying the .6 you mentioned. Drying, as you discovered, helps quite a bit but I’ve yet to find one that isn’t more a PITA than anything else.
The higher your temp the more stringing you will have. It’s going to string either way, but be warned. Wood filament loves to string. My thoughts on the material is to find a brown PLA you like and roll with that, cause wood isn’t worth the headache.
The color really won’t change much. Some say you can stain it but…yeah good luck.
As for the seams. You can attempt to use scarf joints to minimize the seams. In Studio it’s under quality, scroll down to seams, think it’s the 3rd or 4th choice. Should still say experimental beside it. I haven’t messed with the settings too much but a quick search on YouTube will net results.
Thanks for the suggestion on to try Scarf seams. The seams in this model are very noticeable, even with regular PLA, so I will experiment with that. Will try the wood again with the 0.6mm nozzle at some point, but I have a lot to print now using the 0.4mm nozzle! So not sure when I will change to 0.6,
A .06 nozzle will work & since it’s chess pieces, you really shouldn’t lose any detail.
You are printing too cold though, I would go to 210*-215* Also use a hardened nozzle.
