P1 is randomly shifting about 1inch into the print

So I’ve been running into issues with this shifting for a while. Sometimes its because it gets knocked off the base. I dialed in the settings and stopped it from coming off the base, but randomly through a print it will completely shift like the x-y axis moved 1/4" both ways for no reason.

One thing to note is I’ve had to set my zhop to 3mm! (not 0.3, 3.0) because it was also knocking things off the base.

Any suggestions would be greatly apprecaited

I genuinely respect someone who puts up a high res photo, that’s half the battle. :+1:

That sounds like a bed adhesions issue but I’m not sure what you mean by “shifting 1 inch”, are you saying that the model is coming off the bed or that the the printhead is shifting?

What kind of filament are you using?

BTW: I have yet to find a reason to adjust Z-hop although I’ve experimented with it, I’ve never seen it help much with any print issues. Most of the time I had issues it was related to something else.

What I can’t figure out is what’s going on with your brim? How did you get the slicer to only put the brim under part of your model? It’s more of curiosity than anything else and I’m not sure if it means anything but I’d like to know just in case there is something about the model that is not obvious from the pic.

As far as ideas go. I’m guessing you’re using Matte filament? I say that because of the lack of gloss and also because the problem you’re exhibiting is exactly what I experienced with matte filament.

Did you try any of these tricks?

  • Slow the print speed down to quiet(50%)
  • Try a completely different filament.
  • Did you clean the print bed? If it’s an adhesion issue Isopropyl alcohol or Windex will clean off any skin oils. Alternatively, washing it in the singe using standard dish soap works great too.
  • Attempt to cut the max volumetric flow in half via the filament settings.
  • Change the angle position of the model on the plate. It looks like you’ve got enough room to do a 15 degree rotation and that may give you insight as to what’s going on if the shift changes.
  • Vary the hothead temp both hotter or colder? If you are using matte filament, I can share with you that I found that matte filaments like it a lot hotter. I used PETG settings by accident and it actually cleared the problem.

That looks like a naked P1P. Did you ever install the optional chamber fan. Not that I would expect you to if you haven’t enclosed the printer but if you’re not getting layer adhesion, that is something that can be a factor especially with matte or sylk filaments.

How is the ambient room temp? Do you have anything blowing across the model from let’s say a room fan, open window or HVAC system?

I did have a similar issue on the X1C with a complex print on the smooth cool plate. I was able to resolve it by using non-crossing infills for the part and the supports (gyroid and honeycomb).

It may not at first appear that crossing lines of light infill can have much of an impact. However, the moment arm to the base increases linearly with build height. So if it always happens at around the same height, minimizing even minor “collisions” may help.

Either way, timelapse and layer recordings may help to nail down what is happening right when it happens. Helped me on many prints.

Best of luck and keeping my thumbs pressed.

I agree, and it’s a possibility maybe that the model is not completely flat on the bed?

@ajrettke can you have a look at the sliced model from underneath to see if there’s any blue highlighted? Although thinking to myself, you have supports enabled they should have appeared under that section (unless you’ve just painted on ones at the other area)?

Thanks for all response and all the suggestions…The back part behind the arrow is actually a support for a piece higher up (that’s completely vertical so no tree supports)…and from what I’ve seen vertical supports usually do not have the brim (at least from what I’ve seen?)

I have been using the same matte filament for a while (6kg so far)

Answer to questions:
I’m using rather inexpensive matte black PLA because I’m printing a full costume for my son!

I’ll try again without zhop (and use time-lapse as suggested for more info)

I’ll try quiet mode…I didn’t know about that, I just dropped down to fine quality, I thought that would reduce speeds?

About to order new fillament so I’ll let you know, I have some that came with the P1 so that’s probably the best place to start

I did clean the plate with soap and water and was very careful not to touch it.

I’ll try changing max volumetric flow

It might be tight for this print to shift, but I’m sure I can get by with 10 deg or so…I guess anything is better than straight x/y

I’ve only tried 210/215/220 for head

I’ve noticed the hotter bed is definetly better…50 worked much better, 60 was causing it to “jiggle” at the high print speeds I was using.

Ambient temps are pretty constant around 70 deg F, low airflow…there can be some sun that gets in that could be warming things so I’ll make sure the printer is out of direct and large indirect sources.

Lastly, I’ll switch try the different infills as well.

I’ll implement a few of the changes each time I try to reprint…eventually I should be able to start to narrow it down.

Thanks again everyone for the quick responses.

v/r
Aaron

Just wanted to report back!

I stopped all zhop/length etc

kept bed at 50, nozzle 215

Rotated the prints ~10 deg

Changed infill to gyroid

volumetric flow from 12 to 9.

So far I’ve printed 4 objects without any issues!

Thanks everyone for your help. I have a feeling the infil being grid straight on the x/y axis might have been cause them to get bumped or something. Either way, gyroid is working great!

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