Many thanks for your response. I don’t know much about G-code myself. Does the position of the command not matter or where should one insert the second command?
I’m not a pro either, but I would use the command after the M106 fan off commands. I would also probably add a delay to cool down the controller before turning it off.
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Thanks! I will test it and write if it worked. Do you also have a P1P and was it successful for you?
Yeah, I have a P1P too but I’m being lazy with the MC fan and chamber fan install. Bought a Noctua and the Bambu chamber fan and will add them sooner or later, but I just don’t do a ton of long prints so it’s not high on my priority list. Previously, I didn’t want to MacGyver it, but now that the firmware has activated it, I’ll probably finish it soon.
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Unfortunately, the method did not help and the fan continued to run continuously.
I asked in other groups on Facebook and it looks like switching off the MC fan only works with the original 4 pin fan from Bambu Lab and not a modified one from Noctua with 3 cables attached to a 4 pin connector.
I have now ordered the original fan and hope that its dimensions are similar to the Noctua so that I can continue to install the fan with a chimney and not have to disassemble half the printer for the fan.
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Oh… sorry, I missed that you said you had a 3-pin Noctua. That would make sense. You would need the PWM signal pin, not just the RPM pin.
I believe the board manages the signal by the signal cut of PWM, not by the analog signal (analog voltage adjustment) that the 3 pin fan uses. While I’m not sure, but it could be still using PWM control when setting the speed to zero. Maybe the MC fan Off command would work though. I’d have to look and see if there is an actual “Off” command though.
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Watching with interest
I have printed the full vision enclosure and my acrylic panels are on the way
Been trying to work out how to fit an MC Fan - the guide on reddit is excellent but the latest news of the PWM being unblocked in the firmware update seems to make it outdated
I’ve ordered a genuine fan from bambulab - I’m assuming I can just plug it in and it will work with the new gcode. If anyone does this please keep us informed 
The guide stops at before the new firmware update with the unlock.
Looking at the specs of the original Bambu fan and the Nocuta NF-A4x10 5V PWM fan, I preferred the Noctua both because it should push more air and because it should have a longer life, from what the manufacturer claims. It should also be quieter, from what I have read from other users who have used both.
Since you’ll be fitting the original all you need to do is edit the G-Code: insert the command M710 A1 S255 in the initial part of the printer G-Code and the code M710 S0 in the final part, just as the last code string, then you’re done.
To mount the original fan on the heatsink just go to printables and there are various designs, both for the original and the noctua. Beware that they may be different.
Thanks!
I prefer the noctua too but just to get it running I didn’t really want to de-pin and re-pin connectors.
I know it is very annoying as an operation but it takes nothing as you only have to reverse two ends. If you also have heat-shrink sleeves, you don’t even have to solder the wires.
If you want less noise and more air, just do the job once and be safe.
I have M710 A1 S255 I128 D90 ; at start and
M710 A1 S0; in end gcode and the fan is on with the printer powers on and never shuts off.