I’ve just upgraded my P1P to a P1S using Bambu Upgrade Kit. I’ve followed the instructions exactly and all seems well.
However, other than adding the Gode to enable the MC board fan there isn’t anything in the instructions about Bambu Studio printer/slicing settings. I would assume I should add the P1S in the Printer Selection menu and now be using the P1S system presets?
What are other doing and does it make any difference using P1S presets?
As already seen here
My stattement: Doesen’t even matter which slicer you coose, you could use the X1C profile from BBL in BS (as it has the same-ish firmware, and runs on Marlin / BBL g-code), edit the start / end / layerchange g-code to remove most features and it would work the same. It only depends on what you want the machine to do.
I want the machine to be plug and play and not have to experiment with slicer settings which is what drew me to the Bambu in the first place. I’m a product designer and just want to print prototypes, I’m not interested in the hobby of 3d printer tinkering. I didn’t really want the hassle of upgrading the P1P to the P1S but need to print higher temp plastics hassle free and couldn’t afford the X1C. I assume that with the chamber being enclosed there are lower bed temperature defaults and other changes in the P1S presets for fan speeds etc?
Edit: I have added the P1S to bambu studio and printed using the P1S system presets (they show as X1C for some reason). I noticed that the bed temps are lower with the P1S presets which makes sense. Think i’ll continue to use the P1S presents. Just wonder if that the official advice from Bambu for those of us doing the P to S upgrade. If so they might want to add that to the upgrade instructions.
No problem, then just use the P1S profile, the workflow won’t change.
Filament settings change from machine to machnie, so recalibration after an substantial exchange of parts would be neccessary for consistent quality.
You remember setting up your printer you can still use the P1P settings.
I have the ARC enclosure hardened steel nozzle and extruder chamber fan and MC fan etc I use the P1P settings just fine
All I did was save a profile and named it HS_Nozzle so I know which one I am using.
The temps should be a bit higher with hardened steel. As hardened steel doesn’t transfer heat as well and the standard nozzles
Is there anyone who, like me, has noticed a significant deterioration in print quality using the P1S profile after upgrading from P1P?
Haven’t noticed a big difference, but you have to know the P1P and P1S profiles have significant differences. Mainly the fan and bed temps. I can’t remember perfectly the differences, but one is significantly higher on the bed temp and the P1S has the chamber fan running pretty often. The Start GCode update that BBL suggests you put in, can be a point of difference, depending if you use it or not.
So in regards to your question, I can see adhesion issues from the different bed temps, depending on which setting you are using. I can see clogging issues, depending on the profile and setup because the P1P profile isn’t tested as a closed printer. TPU clogging and bed adhesion being too great could happen depending on the way its setup.
Also don’t forget you need to go in to the printer’s LCD menu and tell it about the update too.
What do you mean by higher temp plastics? ABS, ASA, PA, PC ? etc.
Unfortunately, I can see some disappointment coming your way if you think you can print without any tuning of the settings. PLA is about the only filament that doesn’t generally need a lot of tuning in these machines.
The X1C bed can go to 120c, the P1P 100c.
Have you fitted the hardened steel extruder gears and hardened steel nozzle?
I don’t believe you need to change the gcode with the newer firmware to activate the MB fan.
Use the P1S printr profile, which uses the X1C setting profiles and enable the chamber fan. Bear in mind there is no temperature display on the P1 series, so you might want to get a cheap temperature gauge you can put into the machine.
I don’t want to discourage you too much as you’ve made your decision but something like the Qidi X series is better for engineering prototypes, as it has higher bed and extruder temps, active chamber heater, better filtration, better nozzle materials available etc.
The P1P pgraded to P1S with a hardened steel nozzle/extruder gear has so far printed most materials I’ve thrown at it with no problems on standard P1S profiles. The only changes I’ve made on some filament is to slow down speeds to get a better quality finish. I like the look of the Qidi Q1 Pro but mixed reviews so far.
I’ve decided not to use the P1S profile to get away from having to click the P1P override every print. Unfortunately, there’s not a firmware allotment that lets the firmware know it’s been converted, so the firmware stills thinks that it’s a P1P.
To fix this problem, I mirrored the P1S profile on a P1P profile and now it allows me to start a print without the override. (Note: I started doing this a few months ago, so there may have been a firmware update since that change it, but I haven’t gone back to check.)
As far as the quality issues 3dstampj mentioned previously, it does seems like Bambu is updating the profiles on many of the new Slicer releases and they are not always better. For example, the ASA profile for me, now has a terrible flow and top layer performance. All while PLA is still perfect. I look at the ASA profile from a few releases back (old configs as well), and it is definitely different.