Received my P1S upgrade package on Tuesday and I am efectivly running a P1S, thought I woulld put up a few pointers.
1, Read the upgrade info on their page as I didn’t and had to print my Chamber Fan housing half way through the upgrade.
2, Unless I missed out they don’t supply the three very small screws to mount you pr-printed Fan Housing.
3, Watch their Upgrade video carefully as they they miss out on showing other screws that need to be removed to fit the the panels, dry fit the panels to see if there are screws you still need to remove.
4, fitting the heat sink cooling fan is not as easy as it looks on the video I found tipping the printer onto it’s front made it easier to fit the fan and refit the heat sink because you need to line up the screw holes not so easy with the printer standing upright.
Anyway they have continued with their great printers it all fits neatlty just some hicups int the upgrade, maybe my big hands ;-Q Well done Bambulab guys.
Cheers all
I did an upgrade this weekend on Sunday afternoon and it took more time than I thought. I had to say i’m not a fan of the tight spots and tiny allen wrenches. And you are correct, the heat sink is annoying.
I, likewise, have upgraded with the kit without any real problems (other then heatsink and old, big fingers). I am wondering if it is possible to also upgrade the firmware to P1S. Only a minor issue but it would be nice to have the printer model the same as the specs and the label on the front cover.
Well done BBL - itg is a nice upgrade.
This is something I’m very interested in as well.
I upgraded the P1P to P1S.
From a hardware point of view it was great.
Using Bambu Studio and using the P1S setting seems to activate the chamber fan and MC board fan.
But I always get a message saying I’m using the wrong printer.
So is it better to use the P1P settings and change over the GCodes
Or has there been any talk about P1P to P1S firmware updates?
I put in a support ticket for this. They said either add the Gcode to turn on the fan and use the P1P driver, or use the P1S driver and ignore the message saying your using the wrong printer. Either will work just fine.
Here is a screen shot of where the added code for P1P is done. I changed the name printer name to P1P 0.04 nozzle - MC Fan
Did you add custom gcode to yours? Never seen all those descriptions before
Hi,
No I have left it as it comes I just ignore the message that tells me I am using a different printer,
Any way the both the Firmware and Bambu Studio have had updates and will continue to do so.
My printer works fine as it is, my moto is " if it aint broke no need to fix it:"
Cheers 
Did anyone else have issues getting the panel screws in? Everything seems to line up but the screws just strip and won’t go in - and yes, I triple checked to make sure I’m using the right screws.
Hi,
I didn’t have any issues infact I took the new back panel of after Bambulabs supllied my missing screws for my printed fan box, having said that you do need to be careful as some are plastic screws and most are metal screws ( differents thread types)
Cheers
Successful conversion here, too. I had the self-printed casing installed and was happy that the kit came with a full set of new screws, hence the old stuff could go to the bin. The biggest PITA was the right screw of the heatsink, as my screwdriver is a tad too short and collided with the frame.
The message regarding the wrong printer is showing up here, too. It works w/o issues though.
Yep, same thing here. I then realized there were already screws in the holes… I had both side panels already attached at every other spot, and they seem plenty sturdy and sit flush; so I just left those back screws for now and will fix it another time.
i did my upgrade yesterday and i printed a Fan Duct Bracket that fit’s over the heat sink and the supplied fan fit’s ok in it this is the link to it Printables
I just finished the upgrade, missed the screws on the back that i had to take out, the chamber fan screws, it came with 4, only used the 3 it stated.
Ive added the G -Code for turning on the MC fan, and then turning it off…
Checked on the on board display the aux fan works, but do i need anything in the G-Code for that as well?
Seem to have 4 million screws left over… and I only know where one of those should go - Left panel screw, that goes in near the MC Fan… Could not get it in at all, Need smaller fingers
Overall, the video is good, but its not the best.
I just completed my upgrade to P1S and it took a lot longer than I expected as I also changed out the hot end and extruder gear simultaneously so not everything here will apply to everyone.
Print the chamber fan housing before you take anything apart. If you are changing the extruder gear there is also a part to be printed, but I didn’t end up using it. It’s only used if the gear doesn’t come out of the bearing easily.
Just check the steps for the installation guide below the installation video first to get a better idea of the flow.
The videos for replacing the hot end and extruder are fine, and there are others on YouTube that do a good job of explaining the process. I did this part first since to do the P1S upgrade you don’t need to remove the extruder and hot end.
The video guide from Bambu doesn’t show the part fan and camera that many users received free already mounted. I found it easier to remove the existing fan and printed mounting bracket and just use the new one in the upgrade kit.
I did see a light installed in the video but it had a lower casing and was mounted in a different location to mine. I removed my light before doing the upgrade as it was in the way and couldn’t be relocated to the new position as it would not fit in the lower location under the left-hand rail. I will look for a different printed light holder that fits after I have done the upgrade.
I had already installed the part fan, light and camera previously, but the camera didn’t work as I broke the tiny holding bar on the ribbon cable port on the front panel motherboard (like lots of other people)
I finally got around to doing a support ticket. Bambu were fast to respond and sent replacement clips. The clips are a nightmare to put on if you don’t know what position they sit so I looked at a video of someone replacing a ribbon cable to get the right orientation. The camera now works great.
Taking the LCD front panel off was a bitch as it installs pretty tight. I ended up using a screwdriver wrapped in cloth with a small hammer to gently tap it on the left-hand side of the mounting base. This was enough to push it to the right and release the clips.
Open the box for the right-hand side panel and you will see 2 flat clips at the inside bottom. Check if you have the corresponding slots on your frame and if not break them off. My machine didn’t have the slots.
Doing the guide chain and cable is a bit fiddly but the videos will guide you through. I did the cable first, then the chain and then the tube. Once the cable is done you don’t have to remove the board again to do the chain and tube. The video had me removing the filament schute but I don’t think I needed to really. I took the time to replace the wipe roller while it was out. The Bambu video for this was on a link on the install wiki page but it was hard to follow sometimes. Just check the steps for the install guide below the video first to get a better idea of the flow.
So many screws. In general, I found the screws with a course thread were screwed into the plastic like the side covers. The fine thread is for screwing into metal. It’s not super clear what screws to use so don’t think it’s just you. The tops of the left and right panels used the tiny screws in the bag with the panels, that’s the only ones I could get to fit. There are screw holes hidden on the panels so watch the video carefully to pick them up. There were a couple of screws for the panels I think I missed to the right of the power supply and control board but I’m not going back to fix them. It’s fine. There are new screws for everything included in the kit for each part. Might as well use those if you want. There are screws to be removed, mostly on the back frame, to ensure the new panels fit properly. They’re not shown in the video so try and dry-fit the panels to see if you can spot them. If you don’t it just means you will be removing and refitting when you spot them.
The cooling fins on the control board are painful to remove and put back in but you will be able to do it with some patience.
The installation of the chamber fan is fiddly and took several attempts. The small screws provided can easily drop while you position them and are hard to get back from the wires for the power supply. If one drops down I suggest you find it so there’s no possibility of a short. The fan just seems to clip on via the printed posts to mount. Getting the fan in behind the frame on the left needed some work to position it properly. There don’t seem to be any screws to hold the fan in place (that I could see) even with the back cover on.
Putting the front cover on is tricky but there are clips on the top that position it. I sort of slid it in from the top so the sides went under the left and right covers. I should firmly clip into place when it’s correct. Don’t forget the 2 screws before you slide the LCD panel back on.
The screws to mount the front door onto the hinges are on the door itself under the plastic peel. Don’t run around looking for them before you do the peel.
That’s all I can remember. Lots of spare parts and packing to clean up. The printer turned on and worked perfectly when I turned it on. The chamber fan was really noisy so I went into the device tab and clicked on the 3 fans. I changed it to 50%. Hopefully, this doesn’t affect anything else. You can also put the g-code from the install page to turn on the control board cooling fan. Go to the PREPARE page in the slicer and click the little paper and pen icon to the right of the selected printer. There is a tab for machine g-code. Just do a copy paste from the wiki where it says and print something or save as current machine at the top right.
Hope this is helpful to someone, Cheers
For some reason the LED light casing I printed many months ago was too tall and prevented the print head of moving freely. I went back to the Bambu site (click → Light shell) and downloaded the 3mf file. That casing fitted perfectly and looks like the one in the video.
The original 3MF file was meant to mount on the top shelf where the height was not an issue. But after they started selling the cable chain kit for the P1S the light wouldn’t fit there anymore, so they remixed the STL and made it shorter to fit in the mid rail beneath the carbon rod carriers.
So if you were using the original STL, it was definitely taller. Personally, I was using the cabin chain from nearly day one (before the P1S) so I had to remix the original light holder myself.
Nice write up. I haven’t decided yet if the work/$$ involved to upgrade is worth it or not. Plus I was just waiting for the dust to settle with the upgrade package. My main reason to upgrade is to keep the inside of the printer cleaner, not necessarily to print other materials (at least at this time). I’m also not too excited about a noisier printer.
The OP mentioned it was easier to put the heatsink cooling fan on with the printer on its front. Did you do that?
I didn’t put the printer on it’s front but if I had to do it again I probably would.
I think the upgrade is well worth it if you want to try printing with different materials but if you just stick to pla it won’t change your life.
He chamber fan is noisy and seems to go at 100% all the time. Apart from that it looks great.
Fyi Bambu support has been amazing. Unlike reality who took months to replace a broken part
It is noticeably louder, but not obnoxiously so, at least to me. I’m currently looking for the GCode to limit the max speed of the chamber fan because below 60% (which you can adjust to at any time) it’s almost completely in the background and not noticeable. If I can’t find a GCode entry, I might put a buck converter and a 12v fan back in to drop the fan speed.
As far as the MC fan, I can’t imagine doing it any other way. Lay the thing on its face and take care of it.
I find it actually quite amazing that they were able to package everything for $150. That seems like a very reasonable cost for the contents of the kit. Personally, I just feel like the kit completes to printer. Never liked the bare frame look on a $700 printer.
It does complete the package nicely!