I’m considering upgrading to the P1S. While I will probably almost only print PLA, I have kids that likes to watch it print very closely, so I need to keep the front door closed. Which to my understanding means that it will probably be too hot for pla.
So as per topic, my question is if I can simply snap off the back easily and use it without a back back when printing pla? That would be the ideal solution in my situation for keeping it cool while still retaining the enclosure.
The back comes off just by removing some screws. But if you’re going to go through the trouble you might as well just install the chamber fan to do the cooling for you.
And then you can just turn that on when you want to vent your chamber.
The P1S might already even have the chamber fan installed. I have a P1P (the predecessor to the P1S) so I had to enclose mine after market.
You can always prop up the glass lid to vent the chamber as well. There are lots of ideas to safely do this on Makerworld.
Yep… just looked it up.
The P1P to P1S upgrade kit comes with the chamber temperature regulator fan, so you only need to turn that on to keep your chamber cool for PLA.
Great topic!!!
I’ve been looking at this very factor, especially when it comes to cleaning. My current thought is to possibly design an intermediate fascia that will sit between the mounting plate and have 4-6 knurled thumbscrews, similar to those found on desktop computer cases, located in the corners and the middle. It will also have strong rare earth magnets to hold the plate in place. As of now, it has been a back-burner idea but one that I may tackle.
With strategically placed magnets, the thumbscrews would likely be superfluous.
I love integrating magnets into my designs when I can.
Yes, I love magnets too. I use them in most of my designs even ones that do not have connecting parts. 
The thumbscrews would of course be optional and there is the additional negative factor that thumbscrews of the size I would use, which would be Computer PC Case 6#-32, one would have to re-tap the thread holes. But I believe that the option is necessary to ensure rattle-free mounting.
Given the amount of vibration, even rare earth magnets would succumb to failure not to mention the high degree of likelihood of vibrational noise. So whereas one could put very powerful rare earth magnets to counter this, they would have to be strong enough to counter the vibration. There is the added high cost of such magnets.
Here are two examples of magnets I have had a high degree of success using in my prints.
For massive holding power such as a handle grip, I use these. While at $3.75 a piece, they provide holding power like nothing else I have used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LYH1Y1N/
Then for longer grips where space is a consideration, these are what I use and what I would consider using for a magnetically mounted plate. Again, depending on how many one might use, the cost can add up.
I’ve used both of these in my designs depending on who has the better price that day. I can say this, anything less than 5mm of thickness will not work well if one goes beyond 1mm wall width.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08C7TDXPV/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F584P7S/
I’ve tested these 3mm and they only work well if you have a mating magnet on the other piece. If you are using them against metal, then you have to make the wall thickness 0.5mm which really creates a weak part.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QRXV7W9/
Compared to an a1, the p1s is not very good for seeing what’s happening. You’ll need to considerably improve the lighting, Fwiw, I print pla with no doors open or raised lid, the fans take care of it, but it will depend on your location, pla type, etc. If it’s pla only, use an a1.
Providing you are not dealing with a whole herd of kids, it would be best to train them not to poke fingers into things. If they poke into a printer, they may get a minor burn, and will learn a valuable lesson, but if they do it again, then the printer is unlikely to be the problem. If they damage the printer, then you won’t let them do it again, anyway. If it is a question that they are young, and you are letting them around machinery unsupervised, then they can open the p1s door and get up to all sorts of mischief.
I think you would like to buy a p1s… 
I’d be very worried running the printer without the back panel even against a wall with kids around, there are barely protected mains connectors and running fan behind that panel…
But the p1p doesn’t have a back (or does it?), surely running it without a back wouldn’t be worse than just the standard p1p configuration?
I guess I’ve never seen them in person and all photos are always from the front.
The P1P has a “half back” which covers the electronics.
Pictured here.
To add some more context since I got so many replies:
We recently bought the A1 mini. Our first 3d printer, but even though we’ve only had it for about a month, we are having so much fun that I’m considering upgrading already while I still have all the original packaging and I can hopefully get a good price.
I put together an enclosure thing using IKEA platsa, which has been great. I definitely do not want to run a printer without an enclosure after seeing how intrigued the kids are. However it won’t be able to fit the A1 (due to movement) or p1 series (with ams) due to height so that sucks.
While a bigger plate and an ams would be fun, it’s actually not the biggest reason for upgrading. I’m finding it a HUGE hassle to keep changing the spools. And when I’m not printing, I will have to pack away the spool and then often load up the same spool later when printing. So annoying.
Having 4 spools always connected is my main reason for upgrading. And in that regard the p1 series makes a lot more sense than the a1 series. Not only would it be hard to find an enclosure for the standard a1 because it needs so much depth due to movement, the rolls in the ams are also not enclosed. So I would have to get some enclosure for the ams as well. After all that, the space required for a1 + ams would be much much more than just getting the p1s. And with all the furniture/enclosures (wife wants it to look good), it probably wouldn’t be any cheaper either than just getting the already enclosed p1s (which also has the enclosed dry box ams, which is the most important part). It would also save me a lot of time and hassle.
I should also add that I live in a tropical climate where the humidity and temperature is always very high. Lowest I’ve seen in the last month in my printer room is 60%. And a normal summer day is like 30-35 degrees (celsius). Significantly higher humidity is also normal.
Would the fan on p1s be enough to keep it cool enough to print PLA? Maybe, but it sounds to me like everyone opens the front or top. In which case, opening the back would be much more suitable to me.
Do I even need an enclosure? Yes. One way or another. That’s non-negotiable. They are good kids and they have never opened the door since they are not allowed, but they have bumped into the door etc more times than I can count. And they often watch it print with their forehead literally touching the door.
Would the A1 (or even A1 mini) with some enclosure for the ams be suitable? Maybe. Certainly more than capable enough for my needs, but I’m skeptical I can make it work due to the required desk space + need to enclose the ams somehow. MAYBE I could fit the A1 in my IKEA platsa if I remove the back, not sure. But even then I can’t figure out a good solution for how to also fit the ams. If anyone has experiences in this regard, please do share!
Hmm, ok I think I might have misunderstood how it looks like. I guess I can’t remove that part then. That might put a spanner in my idea.
Would I be able to just remove the other half of the p1s back then? Leaving half the back open without exposing any electronics I assume.
I suppose you could cut the P1S back so it’s two seperate pieces.
Honestly I think you might be overthinking an issue that hasn’t proven to be an issue for you.
I would just purchase an extra back panel ($20) and only cut a slot like below and print a plug with 4 or 6 magnets to keep it in place when needed. That would expose the belts at the rear but it’s a very limited hazard. I would also add a handle to ease installation/removal.
I honestly didn’t think it was an issue at all. Since you can upgrade the p1p, I assumed it was just snap on walls. Good thing I asked though.
No I’m not going to start cutting any pieces. I assumed they were already separate pieces (ie since you can upgrade p1p), but if that’s not the case, then the idea of removing the back is officially dead.
I disagree with the overthinking though. It’s not a cheap printer, and if I’m going to spend that amount of money on an overkill printer just so that’s I can get some convenience features (enclosure and multi roll storage), then it better suit my purpose.
There is a LOT of people saying that you can’t print PLA well with the door closed and some even permanently remove the door. And it’s not like I can just return it if I’m unhappy. So it seems entirely justified to consider how I can air it out BEFORE buying it 
Edit: except that philch just provided some new information. so if I can buy an extra piece that cheaply, maybe cutting it is an option after all
I haven’t looked at this. That might be an option as well if it’s possible with the ams installed (I assumed it wasn’t but I clearly have no idea)
Therein lies the difference wrt door open/enclosed.
You my have to arrange drying/sealed storage for your filaments. Afaik the ams does not seal/dehumidify.
Thank you for adding that context. It brings greater clarity with regards to your objective.
Depending on your appetite for 'tinkering" – and let’s face it, isn’t that half the fun of this hobby? – you may consider the P1P which was released before the P1S as more of a ‘99% finished’ kit. The nice thing about the P1P is that dozens of mod kits sprung up during the six or so months before the P1S came onto the market. Some of these were very clever.
Check out Printables.com for a whole slew of back and side plates that can be modified.
https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=bambu%20p1%20panel
https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=bambu%20p1%20panel
https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=bambu%20panel
The vision enclosure as an example allows you the best of both worlds, using Plexiglas, you can allow the joy of seeing the innards thus providing safe viewing for youngsters, while at the same time, allowing for both safety, noise and thermal insulation. But it is just one of many.
https://www.printables.com/model/363079-bambu-lab-p1p-vision-enclosure
If you prefer something less ‘tinkerable’ and more turn-key, then you can find many pre-fab P1P enclosures. Here’s one example on Amazon but there are many more out there.
https://www.printables.com/model/363079-bambu-lab-p1p-vision-enclosure
And of course, let’s not forget that Bambu has it’s own array of printable purpose-designed enclosures that are free for download.
The point of this post is that your choices of enclosures for the P1P are only limited by your imagination.
I thought it would be easier to just get the pre-enclosed p1s, but maybe you are right. Maybe the p1p will give me more options in regards to how exactly I want to enclose it. I didn’t really want to do too much tinkering (that’s why I’m enjoying the bambu printer so much - everything just works), but I’ll have a look at what people have come up with for the p1p. Thanks.
My understanding, and please correct me if I’m wrong, is that the ams has a lid whereas the ams lite is open. I understand that the ams is not a dryer/dehumidifier, but it has room for silica beads (I think) and can essentially act as a dry box. So I should be able to leave the rolls in there and not pack them away between every single print.
