I have been trying to use Bambu-branded PLA/PETG support filament (that came with the P1S) and not having great success. The main part’s filament is PLA (although admittedly 3rd party – eSun). This is a common problem I’m seeing:
You can see there that some of the PLA is all stringy and intertwined with the support filament. It’s also worth noting that I have already been going at this piece with a razor blade and pliers, so this is AFTER I’ve cleaned it up and essentially just given up. This piece was also printed at a much slower speed than the default, in an attempt to get a better part, but with similar results.
Weirdly, you can see that some interfaces (second from the bottom) are much cleaner. But the bulk of them are a mess.
The other problem I’m noticing is ‘wisps’ of support filament protruding through the main part, and others that may not come through, but are melted into the main part. I don’t have a good picture of that, because it’s easier to clean up.
I assume I’m doing something fundamentally wrong here. Any ideas or advice? Thanks!
You can adjust the spacing gaps between support and the model. Have you tried giving a little more gap? More gap tends to cause more rough looking parts but they don’t stick as hard to the support.
There is also water soluble PVA support that has been said you can run the gaps to nothing and get the best looks after dissolving away the support. I’ve not tried it yet to know but others here have.
Yeah… I’m aware of PVA – I’ve used it as a mold-parting layer for large-scale composite parts a bunch. I’m just puzzled as to why the support material that came with the P1S is having trouble all of a sudden. I’ve had great results with it before (like a week or two ago?) and now I’m having these problems. As mentioned, I tried slowing things down by 4x, but I still have the same problems.
Not knowing your settings, when you enable support material it should set gap to 0. This is neccessary for support filament. It shouldn’t and won’t stick (if it’s dry) to the model when printed so the gap isn’t necessary.
If you have known dry PETG then switch it for the support filament. PETG won’t stick to PLA so they can be used a support material for each other. Set gap to 0 and print a small portion that is giving you problems. If it prints ok then the support material you have it too damp, and I suspect it is.
I’ll try the PETG. I have a factory-sealed roll ready to rock.
I honestly don’t think that dampness is my problem. My AMS is more-than-fully desiccated, with the additional pods, center pods on the reels, room has dedicated dehumidifier and AC, etc. If this filament could be drier, I’m not exactly sure how. But the PETG is definitely dry (still being sealed from the factory) so I guess I’ll give that a shot.
Don’t assume that the sealed filament is dry. It could be.
As for the rest, so do I. Still need to dry PETG, ASA, ABS, and PA if it’s been out longer than a few hours. That support filament loves to soak up water. With a dehumidifier 5 feet away and an AC about 7 feet away.
Currently the room is 77, since I forgot to set it and forget it last night, but it’s coming down. Usually around 72. RH is 46% in the room. Inside the printer it is 25% (door and top open), the AMS is 26% (pod doesn’t allow the desicant itself to be read) with week old desicant, and lastly the Sunlu S4 is maintaining 29-30% according to the seperate hydrometer in it. So I still need to dry filament esp those above.
Sorry for being so long winded, but try drying it.
You may be good, but these statements alone don’t guarantee dry filament. You can fill an AMS with desiccant and it still may be high humidity if the desiccant has been exposed to too much humidity and not dried, and the process of desiccant drying filaments at room temperature is very slow no matter how dry your desiccant is.
Also, how dry is dry? If your filament storage is down around 20-25% RH you might be fine with PLA but that may be too high for other more hygroscopic filaments. If your storage is around 30-40% RH, that can get iffy to poor for open storage. Relative humidity needs to be below around 40% to generate static shocks just to calibrate a bit.
And being sealed from the factory isn’t a guarantee of dryness. I’ve dried four spools of filament during testing on a project I’ve been working on specifically to dry filament and they all lost right around 2g of water while drying to a 19% filament dryer chamber humidity.
To really know how you’re doing with filament drying takes a scale that can see 0.1g or 0.01g changes with a 2kg or better load limit. Weigh before drying and after to know how much water it lost. And reporting relative humidity in your filament dryer when you terminate drying is also important. If it’s in the 30% range or above it’s not really all that dry.
After battling with Ender 3 for months until I got it eventually to print reasonable well I was expecting a smooth ride with PS1 AMS. I need as clean print as possible with CF PETG and prints without support are stunningly good compating to my old Ender.
Printing with support is very problematic though, BambuLab PETG support fillament sticks to well and very hard to remove while PLA does not stick at all.
Can anyone who printed CF PETG with success give me their settings.
I don’t have any productive advice for you, but if you weren’t aware, you’re kinda ‘coloring outside the lines’ here. Also you might want to start a new thread focused specifically on your issues with CF filaments.
I only see “Polymer: Not recommended”, CF/glass reinforced is listed as OK. Anyway I think I solved the problem for support fillament by setting Top Z distance to 0.1. I need to do some more tests but so far so good
My interpretation of this is that it should be read: “Carbon/Glass Fiber Reinforced Polymer: Not recommended” and not that they are two different lines.
I have a colleague who uses an X1C and specifically bought it over the P1S because of this.
You may very well know more than I do about this, but that’s my reading of it.
OK You are right, it states on this page, it should be upgraded:
However, it is not recommended to directly print fiber-reinforced filaments such as glass fiber or carbon fiber, before an extruder and hotend upgrade is done
I have upgraded hot end to hardened steel, I’ll have a look what else needs to be changed.
Once you do the hotend and extruder you’re good to go. May want to get some extra PTFE tubing to keep on hand, as CF and GF of all varieties are rough on the tubing.
I print GF, CF and PA-6 with a P1P upgraded to a P1S every day. You’ll be fine.
I have hardened steel extruder part replacements; I’ll install them in the coming days. Spare tubing came with the printer. However, I do have an AMS, and apparently, AMS will not survive CF for long.
I have only a couple of relatively small projects for now to print in PETG CF, probably 60 hours of print time, and then will switch to PLA and PETG.
The support filament is the same color as the PLA? I got a sample spool of the Support for PLA filament but it is a white translucent color. I’m trying to better understand some problems I am having so just following thread.
Anyone have any knowledge of the filament White List and Black List configuration file that resides among the various other json files in Bambu Studio?
