It is outstanding how fast and multiple good answers are coming to me! Thank you all!
I am using these PETG since a long time now with very good results. The AMS says humidiy is still fine but I will try drying them and let you know
I changed the nozzle to figure out of any clogging without any results. Yes I have to access gears for a cleaning probably but it looks difficult
I tried to print a cube and looks goodā¦ strange. Probably the cube was small (2x2x3cm) enough to active the speed limit. It actually printed quite slowly and comes out clean.
How can I measure easily the nozzle temperature ?
Filaments are stored inside the AMS with some dessicants. I believed the AMS sensor for humidity. I have a separated dryer but without a measurement. So now I have to start drying all the filaments and print again but it seams strange that all me filaments started to print bad in the same time.
There are a number of ways. The method I used was to pull the filament and put a thermistor down into the filament hole. Hereās one I frequently use for other projects but what I like about it is that any 10K Ohm NTC thermistor on wires can be used which allows for a lot of flexibility in where you place the probe albeit, you will have to modify the probe and make your own probe but if you can handle a solder iron, itās easy. In my case I took a shortcut simply pull back the insulation and exposed the thermistor. Most NTC thermistors are less than 1.75mm in thickness and they are so cheap, they can be considered disposable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081ZZXWDL/
The probes themselves are so cheap that they too count as disposable.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=TM902C+probe
The second method is to use a non-contact thermometer. There are so many options so Iāll just list the search. Prices range from around $8 - $20. More is not better in this case. Buy on price and features. These thermometers have so much utility that I have a couple around the office, shop and kitchen.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=non+contact+ir+thermometer&s=price-asc-rank
This is one I bought 4 years ago at $18 during Covid when prices were whacked. Itās now $7
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XTS1LFQ/
Hereās a search term for all equivalent type thermometers. Most are sub $10.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=TM902C
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Thatās not a reliable tool and shouldnāt be used to determine filament moisture content. All that will tell you is the RH% inside the chamber. If you look around here, you will see countless posts showing that RH% has nothing to do with ātrappedā filament moisture content. Yes, low RH% will reduce the amount of available moisture to be absorbed into anything but even 0% RH will not desiccate the filament sufficiently.
There is one reliable method to measure moisture content in a spool, weight. Remember that 1cc=1ml=1g for water. Gotta love the metric system. 
However, note that a cardboard spool itself has the ability to retain moisture so what I tend to do is to keep an empty spool on hand that has already been in the drier and weighed to ensure that moisture is removed. I keep it in a sealed bag with a moisture indicator and desiccant to ensure itās dry. Even that is only an estimate but itās better than nothing.(FYI, itās not a bad idea to write the tare on empty spools and keep some around for record keeping)
I can promise you this, especially with hydroscopic filaments. Weighing filament before and after testing it is an eye-opener indeed. I was a bit of a skeptic at first until I weighed and dried a spool of Bambu Gold Silk filament which was horrible product I stopped using it. However, after I dried it, the measurements were amazing as were the results.
Left side was before, right side, after. And who says, PLA is not hydroscopic? Well, at least Bambu Gold Silk is. 
The best advice I can give anyone in this hobby is you shouldnāt believe me or anything you read on these forums to judge your own specific situation. We can only provide you guidance. Always verify what you ābelieveā with what you can actually measure.
A simple food scale does the job. This is the one I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097141VBH/
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Unfortunately, PETGās stickiness isnāt 100% related to the moisture content. PETG is just prone to sticking. So, make sure your silicone sock is in good shape, and keep an eye out for it. If it is a problem (may not be the only problem), you may be able to find temps that make a difference.
Did you update firmware by chance? My printer was perfect until I updated the firmware, then it all became a mess. After reverting to 1.04.02, perfect again.
Oh yes it can totally be an updated firmware also! I will check how to revert to a previous version. Thank you
Amazing so detailed answers! I am buying one NTC probe and will test asap. Infrared thermometers are quite moody when it comes to precision and it is still 20ā¬ in europeā¦
Spools are in the dryer now!
Refresh the thermal paste of your Hotend. The Paste can degrade over time
I just changed the hotend assembly with a new one from bambulab so the paste is new.
Thanks to all your comments I started to do the basics : use a dry PLA filament, clean the bed with ādish soapā, setup my K factor to 0,025 and restart a full calibration.
I printed a boat test with success. Now I need to try with PETG again. It is drying at the moment.
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Happened to me too. Found out the two screws holding in my hotend nozzle was loose. Tightened them up and everything was running normal again.
There is nothing about you print bed at all. Check your hot end nozzle then your filament if you nozzle is good.
A lot of users are saying that this is a dirty plate issue, and I agree. However, it may also be a z-offset/bed leveling issue.
Olias,
After checking that the temperature was not correct, how did you fixed it on the printer ?
Olias,
After checking that the temperature was not correct,
how did you fixed it on the printer ?
I printed again with PETG and exacly the same problem happened.
zog, the strange thing is that it prints perfectly with PLA. So I guess I can put aside the bed problem and z-offset ?