Initially, this had me stumped. To some extend, it still has me as I find it very difficult to detect curling even when zooming into the images. There seems to be some edge curling in the 3rd picture, but it does not seem so bad.
But one thing after the other. Personally, I prefer Honeycomb to Gyroid. It may need a bit more material, but it builds layer on layer, giving better resistance to XY bending.
I am not sure as to the effect of additional walls. On one hand, it will stiffen the structure, thereby reducing bending. However, it is likely to make a likely root cause, edge curling, worse as additional materials leads to more total curling (percentage wise, it is the same. But 5% of 0,8mm is less than 5% of 1,2mm). So you may get a stiffer structure but more curling.
The cooling certainly is tricky. The lower your cooling the better the edge curling behavior but your overhang quality will suffer. So playing with AUX and part fans will have an effect. But it can be a very painful and frustrating experience trying to optimize contradicting process mechanisms.
Fortunately, there may be another, easier way. It is great that you provided the adaptive layer screenshot. You smoothed the layer height nicely in exactly the right height. But in my slicer, thinner layers (less heat input, less curling) has the blue line far on the left, turning the bar green at that height. A red bar with the blue line to the right means a high layer height.
To reduce the heat input per layer, you will need to inverse the adaptive layers to be low (green) in the tricky region.
Of course, I can not be sure that moving to Honeycomb infill and inversing your adaptive layer height to ensure that tricky areas are printed in thin layers will resolve all issues for all heights. But it should help. Do not be scared to go all the way down to minimum layer height until the pillars are joined again. As you know, it usually takes longer to make a new print than to make a slower print. Once it works, you can try to speed up again.
/RANT
If I had a dollar for every time I suggested a solution to a room full of men and was ignored, only to have one of the men to propose the same solution and rest agree with him⌠forgetting I was the one to suggest it⌠I might be able to buy a second printer.
/End RANT
Just sayin! #WEI (Woman Engineer Issues)
No worries! To be fair, you were getting a lot of ideas tossed at you.
I just thought it was kind of funny. And I donât always have the right answer.
Bambu Labs makes 3D printing much easier, but there is still a lot to learn.
There are a few more screws to tweak if you feel the need.
Evidently the respective fan speeds (Aux and Part) to tune in the best compromise between curling and overhang drooping. I have had some success with that in the past but to be honest, I never felt that I truly understood the relationship between cause and effect.
My initial go to is usually to slow right down when things do not work. Helps against curling in the same manner as adaptive layers by reducing the thermal input and hence curling inducing shrinkage. On a big model, you can use a modifier to only do that in specific volumes as shown in my post above.
The third option is of course (paint on) supports. With an AMS, you can either use an expensive water soluble interface material (never had much luck with PVA but BVOH is great with PLA) or PETG with an interface z-distance of 0 to get a good surface finish. The support will also help with the model stabilization and also local cool down (anti-curling).
I had to print a model with lots of flimsy pillars holding a curved âroofâ.
A bit like a round gazebo where the pillars form connecting arcs.
Was a bit suspicious about how to support this and decided on doing a small scale test first.
Despite my print settings being fine for all else this print failed.
Tried again and started observing around the height it failed the first time.
Those pillars grew nicely and expanded nicely to the arc shape.
But with this there was also some weird warping.
Not really enough to worry about as it was just the outer most loops but still.
Eventually the head pushed those a bit, they got more prominent and then things went ugly quickly.
Here is my workaround for prints failing this way:
Set the tickbox to avoid crossing perimeters - this reduces the risk of bumping into things.
You might have to play with the distances a bit to make it match your modelâs needs.
INCREASE the z-hop !
I had it at the default as it worked great but in this case I increased it by 2mm in order to avoid bumping into these little lifted areas.
Yes, it takes a bit longer to print but if that means the model wonât failâŚ
It can also be beneficial to lower the movement speed for non-print movesâŚ
for the large print 