hi,
been running my p1s for just a few weeks.
I have a problem where anything i print near the left side/rear edge of the plate is severely warped/deformed. See attached pics.
Leveling before every print and a few calibrations does not seem to resolve.
I thought it could be an issue with too much breeze from the chamber fan. I stuck my hand in there and it felt pretty breezy. I’ve tried it at various percentages as well as turning it completely off, and now i have the lid off/door open for cooling and the fan 100% turned, off and it’s still happening today. So i think i can rule out too much ambient heat or airflow.
My p1p does not have this issue - also not a file issue as the same sliced file runs perfect on the p1p.
Any thoughts out there before i contact support?
thanks!!
Also, anytime I need a perfectly flat surface I use a brim. Some geometries just don’t print well and need the extra help staying flat. If you do have a brim (looked like a skirt) it may have too much gap. If that is a brim change the gap to .05 mm or 0.0 mm.
There are a bunch of other tricks, but they rely on a lot of variables.
PETG has a number of threads here which may be helpful. Bambu cooling settings are tailored for speed which unfortunately also maximizes warping.
It also looks like some layers are wider than designed? Did you check flow consistency in the slicer? Again, PETG is more susceptible to this than PLA.
Also, there appear to be a few holey layers. Again, a picture I have seen with PETG in low nozzle temp/high flow situations.
To minimize warping, you typically want to have a warm build chamber, i.e. low chamber fan, closed door and lid. This increases the risk of heat creep but will help with warping. To further reduce interlayer cooling differences, part fan cooling should be low/off but this will of course worsen overhang performance, stringing, etc.
And, of course, a wide brim with a low distance to the model helps.
However, did you know that skirt loops only really have applications in older 3D printers? Skirts loops are unnecessary in Bambu because their function is to prime flow through a filament head before printing is started. This is completely unnecessary in the Bambu construction but it is left in the slicer as a vestigial organ left over from the Prusa fork. This is why it’s set to zero by default in Bambu.
What you want to do is use brims instead. That will reduce the opportunity for the edge to peel off as the brim will provide that extra grip needed to stay glued to the bed. This is particularly handy if you’re using the Textured PEI plate.
In my own experience I found that these three conditions are almost always needing brims.
Solid thick parts with high infill. The more solid, the more upper layer shrinkage causing the lower layer to curve upward.
ABS or PETG or other higher temp filaments.
And as I mentioned Slickery PEI or where the surface doesn’t provide grip.
Whereas I realize this doesn’t address why a P1S would perform differently than a P1P, there are differences in edge temps that vary slightly from printer to printer. Here’s what that looks like under an IR camera.(P1P with black textured PEI plate set to 65C note the severe falloff at the edges)
And of course, don’t rule out the use of glue on the edges even on a PEI plate. When I first got my P1P and tried to print the skins for it, I had to learn the hard way because the larger skins were “just” at the hairy edge of the plate and they did exactly what you see happening in your example. It totally pissed me off after 8 hours of wasted filament to say the least.
hey Olias,
Thanks so much for this info as well as the cool heat map photo. This would totally explain stuff not sticking on the outer edges. And i’ve been printing for awhile yeah, but it’s actaully an outer brim, just adjusted a little too far away from the print in this case.
I have a tube of some liquid glue that came with the p1p - i might try a lap of that to get better adhesion and still push to the outer boundaries. Or- give up and not fill the bed. Anyways, another variable thrown in is that i have the gold pei on the p1p and the p1s came with this black pei. Maybe gold has better adhesion? hmm.
Ah ha!! That makes sense. Yeah, I experimented with the brim gap and I tell you, I can’t find a use case that makes sense because as soon as you create a gap that distances itself from the part, it renders the brim inert.
As far as Gold vs Black PEI. I just got a Gold Bambu PEI and I haven’t even used it yet. So far the opinions around here seem to be biased against the stiction of the Gold PEI plate being inferior than the black. I’ll test it out over the next week and maybe report back here. But if that Gold plate is like the off-brands I recently bought on Amazon, I am not hopeful that it will be better. In fact, at first touch it feels like they really scaled back on the PEI coating.
A skirt only goes around the perimeter of the whole model, or collection of models on the bed. He’s using a brim.
I still use skirts for filaments that I know tend to drag purge line bits across the plate and that’s just to make sure it doesn’t affect the print.
