I have some Bambu PA6-CF, and I cannot get it to stick to any build plate.
Things I have tried:
All build plates below were thoroughly cleaned with either hot soapy (Dawn dish soap) water or/and 99.9% IPA (according to respective manufacturers directions)
and the filament was dried to below 15% RH shortly before printing each time.
Stock textured PEI plate at 80 - 99°C using MUCH slower printing speed (under 100mm/s, down to 50mm/s) 0.16 up to 0.24 first layer height.
WhamBam PEX plate with all of the same variations of the settings above + more.
BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier with all of the same variations of the settings above + more.
Stock Bambu filament profile for PA6-CF
Modified filament profile for PA6-CF I have tried slower and faster print speeds… brims etc, higher/lower build plate temps.
I’m lost at this point, 9 out of 10 prints fail with the print coming off the build plate.
I refuse to use glue stick… I have been an active 3d printer (mostly (PLA and PETG) since the Ender 3 Pro came out in early 2019 and I have NEVER had to use anything on my bed for adhesion. Recently I have tried ABS and some Polymaker Nylon (non CF reinforced) and didn’t have any issues I couldn’t overcome… but this PA6-CF is making me pull my last hair out
*edit
Saying I refuse to use glue stick was a bad choice of words, if that is the only solution, I will have to try it. suggestions for a brand and/or type would be welcome.
Thanks all.
Also, extrude a bunch of it manually, then snip it off with tweezers quick… Now what happens? Does it continue to creep out of the nozzle? Probably, but you can tell how moist it is based on that creep imo. When its PA6 style wet, it will look like styrofoam spaghetti worms coming out of the nozzle at quite the pace. Drying of that filament is no joke and if its not dry it can lead to stuff getting knocked off the build plate.
And stay at the top end of the bed temp, I’ve never went below 100 with PA6-GF and have good results when it is proper dry both with and without glue stick (the bambu brand but I’ve heard elmers is fine, you just want a water based adhesive). Glue stick is just a bit of a pain, but it works and washes off easily.
Finally, its an enclosed filament so imo it benefits from a warm chamber, prewarm your chamber if problems persist by setting the bed temp early and keep everything closed up.
Awesome, thanks for the reply.
I make sure it’s below 20% RH, to be honest, it’s at 11% right now, so it’s pretty dry.
The P1S max bed temp is 100, (I’m pretty sure) so that’s the max I can go.
and I always have the printer fully enclosed when I print abs or nylon. I even pre-heat the machine before printing those types of filaments.
sigh, glue stick it is then… I ordered some Bambu glue stick.
Thanks again!
Bambu Glue Stick works, so does Elmer’s Disappearing Purple School Glue Stick - be sure to get the wide Jumbo size. Liquid glues are supposed to be good, but I balk at the prices. I’ve had inconsistent results with hair sprays.
I’m currently having good results by putting a chunk of glue stick in a small spray bottle and dissolving it with 91% IPA. I need to experiment to find the best ratio of glue/IPA, but this (mostly) solves the problem of glue marks on the print.
My first attempts have used too much glue - the solution becomes saturated, the chunks stop dissolving, and the thick liquid sprays only as drops. It works, but needs to be spread and evened out a bit on the plate. More IPA helps the solution spray as more of a mist, leveling itself out on the plate before the IPA evaporates and leaves a smooth, even surface.
