PAHT-CF Refined Settings

Has anyone refined or found a better set of settings for the PAHT-CF filament? I’m generally happy with small prints, but as soon as I go medium to large things get a bit wonky…uneven layers on exterior walls and warping.

I’m doing another print now with lower infill settings, but I’m not convinced that’s the answer yet.

Here are a couple photos for reference.


I couldn’t be happier with the BBL profile. I didn’t change a thing. Each print I made with the material was flawless.

But since you are having issues with warping, I’d suggest thinning out the edges. Thick sections of plastic have a higher tendency to warp. If you still need high wall counts or infill, maybe try a brim. Also remember, Bambu Studio/Ocra/Prusa Slicer will allow you to select only the edges and leave the rest thicker (higher infill).

Not sure what the outer wall problem is in the first pic. I can’t make it out. But just checking, that’s supposed to be a flat wall, right?

P.S.

I’d also stop doing the full size print until you get the settings sorted out. Cut out the areas that are a problem and just print those. The only exception would be, if you are having an issue with an area that makes up 75% or so of the print, it would make sense to just do the whole thing.

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Thabk you for this. I reduced the wall count to 4 and decreased the fill to 15%. I also reduced the speed overall.

I’ve printed this model before on Polyterra PLA without issue, but this client wanted something a bit stronger. I always seem to have the same issue with this PAHT where you can see the interior floor on the exterior wall, thats what that line is.

Well I need to figure something out, I still can’t get a good large print out of this stuff. A lot of warping, even with 15% infill and 4 walls. What else should I try adjusting?

Personally, when I need a perfectly flat surface, I always use a brim. Also Bambu was right, “Glue stick can help”. When I have these types of problems, I will use glue stick. Sometimes, when using both, it will pull the plate off the magnet before warping off the plate.

Another thing to try is raising the bed temp. The higher bed temp will do two things. Raise the chamber temp (really good thing for ABS, Nylon, PC, etc.) and radiate heat a little deeper in to the part to minimize shrinkage towards the bottom.

Things to make sure you are not doing.

  • Don’t use the fan very much, overhangs are ok but that’s largely it.
  • Don’t open the door or lid, drafts cause temp changes and temp changes cause warping.
  • Also, make sure there isn’t a fan or AC duct blowing air into the printer. While its unlikely, an AC duct behind the printer could add cool air when the chamber fan is off. This would create a draft and accelerate shrinkage.

If these prints are something you do a lot, consider building one of the chamber heaters people started making. A low powered one should cap out around 60C, and should help with tough filaments like PC and Nylon.

Just noticed on the cooling tab for the filament, “Air Filtration” is enabled at 70%. That’s a lot IMO. Try knocking that way down, off to 25%. And maybe change the start of fan usage to layer 10 or 20 (from 3).

I appreciate the insights. I’m using a brim and glue stick on the textured plate, but it still warps and I still see the edge of the interior base coming through the edge. I may just need to find a different material for large prints…open to suggestions! I keep wasting so much on this one print.

Right now I’m running the print with Polyterra Matte PLA and it’s looking beautiful.