I am relatively new to 3D printing, so please be kind also, my wife sent me pictures of my computer screen when I wasn’t home, I apologize in advance. Posting from phone. I have a print that keeps failing on the left side, mostly. I have a Bambu x1c and will attach photos of my current specs (using a .2 mm nozzle). There is also a little bit of an issue just under the visor. The original creator of the file said he did not need supports to get his to print out right, so I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. The right side of the helmet prints complete, but there is a little bit of defect still there too.
If anyone could offer any feedback/tips, I would greatly appreciate it! I’ve had 8 failed attempts. I’m using the Bambu slicer. I have enabled slow down for overhangs, I even tried reducing the speed even further using numbers recommended on other posts. With my most recent print I slowed the overhang speeds to 25,10,10,10. It actually came out a little worse. Oh, also, the filament is matte and the brand is iBoss.
The only thing I haven’t changed yet is the minimum layer time, I believe it’s called. I’ve seen a lot of people recommend decreasing that, but I’m not sure by how much to decrease it by.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but you are the victim of the laws of physics which is a very egalitarian law that applies to all of us equally. Or simpler terms: Gravity sucks!!!
The bottom line is you’re printing filament in midair here and unless there is something underneath it to support it, it will sag. You can try to mitigate this by boosting your cooling fan at those layers but that will be at the sacrifice of layer adhesion. So pick your poison.
As an alternative, you can also change the orientation of the model so that the layer lines are at an angle to mitigate the pull of gravity. However, that will just make the layers on another part of the model sag.
BTW: One thing I might suggest it to run a temperature tower to figure out which temp is ideal for your filament and temperature. You’ll want to use the Orca Slicer calibration tower because it will vary the temperature. Don’t make the mistake of downloading any tower unless it explicitly does GCode temp modifications.
Note, Temp tower is only part of the Orca Slicer test suite and does not appear in Bambu Studio. It is in the top toolbar. Make sure that you select a temp range that is outside of what’s on the spool label. Also, you will be presented with defective manifold, this is normal. Click the repair button and it will take a minute to repair.
When your done, go up to the color scheme drop-down and scroll all the way down to the temperature selection which is hidden. If you did this right, it will show a rainbow model like this.
Then when you print it, here is what you want to look for. This example just shows what is possible with factory-fresh PETG right out of the bag. I hadn’t completed full calibration but you can see that the overhangs looked better at 195 and 220. It’s not always obvious and sometimes you have to take toothpick or needle to verify that there wasn’t sufficient layer adhesion.
also, my wife sent me pictures of my computer screen when I wasn’t home, I apologize in advance. Posting from phone. I have a print that keeps failing on the left side, mostly. I have a Bambu x1c and will attach photos of my current specs (using a .2 mm nozzle). There is also a little bit of an issue just under the visor. The original creator of the file said he did not need supports to get his to print out right, so I’m not sure what I’m doing wrong. The right side of the helmet prints complete, but there is a little bit of defect still there too.
