I purchased a roll of Bambu PETG CF to print a few parts, and have been having serious bed adhesion problems. It simply doesnt stay on the print bed. Its not a problem of it initially sticking and then releasing later in the print, it is an issue that occurs while the first layer is printing. I have tried throughout the reccomended range of hotend and bed temperatures to no success, and even dried the spool at 65C for 8 hours as reccomended. No improvement. To see if it was a hardware or slicer issue, I loaded in a spool of a different brand’s PETG CF, and used the same gcode. It printed with zero problems. I changed nothing besides the filament, and the results couldn’t have been more different.
For reference, I am using textured PEI print surface, as I have always used without issue for PETG-CF.
It seems that this is an issue with the Bambu Filament.
I have the exact opposite, the stuff sticks like the proverbial … to a blanket. I use the hot smooth and engineer plates with it usually, haven’t with the textured PEI though. My first suggestion is the usual dawn scrub in a sink of hot water and up the first layer bed temp by 5c. Keep the first layer speed down to around 35mm/s for extra insurance. This of course is assuming the model base is not weird with uneven surface, does it print in normal PETG ok?
Normal PETG and other brands of CF PETG print totally fine. I cleaned the print bed already, both with soap/water and a sponge as well as Isopropyl alcohol. The print is very simple, literally has a flat rectangular base about 25x50mm. Already tried different first layer speeds, started at 35mm/s and lowered incrementally all the way to 10. No luck there. I have run print bed temps ranging from 75-90C and Nozzle temps 240-275C. Still no luck. Have tried both smooth and textured plates with similar results.
Update:
On a whim, I decided to try lowering the bed temp instead of raising it. That worked. It seems to have fine adhesion, at a lower bed temp than I normally use for PETG and PETG CF.
What bed temps do you “normally” use?
What did you change to?
I was just getting ready to try 75 instead of 70 on Garolite (LightYear). I am trying to fix a lifted corner on a rectangular box, about 50x80 mm.
Thanks!
I’ve been running 75c first layer and 70c normal for the hot plate, thats weird the lower worked but good to know
@Rhoderman I run 80c start temp on my G10 as it helps normalise the overall plate temp for that kick start. Also if its a fresh plate give it a really good scour in hot water as mine refused to bite before that.
@8orgman I think as plates get old they can go both ways, either too good or not enough. Treating them as such you can extend their life but its usually a sign to replace. Note, this is when all other possible causes have been treated.
Similar to your case, I’ve used a very light coat (very) of hairspray on PEI beforehand to help release models and it seems to work better.
So I am new to 3d printing. I am having this same issue with my PETG-CF. It sticks to my textured print plate so badly that the print either breaks apart or discolors. Did you find a solution to the issue?
The discoloration (usually white) is a stress mark from the pull on the plastic. Often, carefully applied heat will restore the color; try a heat gun or hair dryer.
Stubborn prints will usually release (or at least loosen) from the plate if you pop the plate with the print into the freezer for 10-15 minutes.
Use glue as a release agent. Liquid glue is best, but it is expensive. A glue stick works well, but it can be hard to apply evenly, especially on a textured plate.
I dissolve chunks of glue stick in IPA in a small spray bottle. I let it sit for a day or so, then if all the glue has dissolved, add more. When the solution is saturated, the chunks will stop dissolving, and the solution is ready to use. If you do not see glue chunks remaining in the bottle, add more - the solution may be too weak.
I put the plate in a cardboard box to control overspray, then spray and spread the solution over the entire plate, let it level itself, and dry. It will dry faster in the printer with a warm bed. One or two coats work very well on a textured plate. For a smooth plate, one heavy coat is good; two is better, but might create faint glue lines.
It is easily found in drugstores and grocery stores. I use a 91% concentration, just check the label to verify that it contains only alcohol and purified water. It is also sold in a 70% concentration, which is less effective, and usually costs the same. Some people insist that 99-100% IPA is necessary, but I have not found a justification for the much higher cost.
