I bought some bambu lab PETG-CF (green color) filament, although I use correct default profile in bambu lab studio but the prints sticks to the golden textured PEI bed too aggressively . I can’t get it off at all or sometimes the melted filament is so deeply embeded inside the PEI’s texture that it’s almost impossible to remove it.
here is a photo of the issue. in below case, I let the filament cool down to room temp before even attempting to remove the printed model.
In general, I have refrained from using Texture PEI plate for PETG for exactly the reasons you just learned the hard way. PETG is hyper-aggressive when it comes to sticking to surfaces but at the same time, it can still curl up at the edges if one forgets to add a brim. To me it’s somewhat of a paradox.
Two things I found helpful.
Allowing the plate to cool before lifting the model helps but if you want to hedge that bet, freeze the plate for five minutes. The product will come off far easier that way. This also works if you forget and have to scrape off the material that is left behind like in your picture.
Believe it or not, even though the Bambu plates say so right on the plate that it is for PETG I have found that the use of a glue stick can act as a release liner for PETG. The glued acts as a bond but it also becomes the layer between the two surfaces that will peel away much easier. Again, putting it in the freezer after print helps a lot.
PETG on itself does normally stick very well to PEI and in the past I destroyed smooth PEI sticker sheets during PETG part removal.
Textured PEI releases the PETG better but there are some PETG blends that still can be hard to remove ( some PLA silks also )
As recommended above wait for the plate and part to cool down completely before attempting part removal and even better put it for a couple of minutes in the fridge or freezer which often gets the piece to pop off on its own but brims sometimes need a little additional attention with a scraper.
Personally I use hairspray or a PVA glue -Water “milk mix” as an intermediate layer between the PEI and the printed PETG part but as mentioned above glue stick also works well for that.
I print PETG on aftermarket textured PEI plates all the time.
If it’s a larger model and I’m in a hurry, I’ll remove the plate and wave it around to get it to cool faster.
The model usually falls off in the process.
freezing it with combination of coating of hair spary (since I don’t have glue) did the trick for me. I can confirm I don’t have the issue anymore. I am sure glue will do the same, I about to orde some glue sticks.
Glue stick (normally also PVA based) works also but I prefer Hairspray since it applies more evenly and thinner than glue stick does which in turn makes it more easy to clean off with water and dishwashing detergent. Glue stick and also PVA Wood Glue-Water mix can have rather thick application areas on the plate which can result in marks on the part and it is more laborious to clean off the plate.
I used Nylon since I had my first printer able to get hot enough.
When PETG came out I did the usual beginner mistakes…
Like just trying to print it only to realise I needed a new build plate right after as the print would not come off.
Even today my preferred choice is a glass plate with kapton tape on top…
Offers good adhesion for PETG and once cooled down it pops off.
As my P1S would require me to cut a new plate I of course had to figure out how to make this textured PEI plate work…
KNOWING it could be a disaster I used this liquid glue from the box for the first time.
What a bad idea that was - to just smear it on there…
The print came off once I placed it in the fridge for a while and it left the white marks on the plate…
A hot water wash showed it was the glue but no damage to the plate.
Next round was with far less glue followed by my sponge treatment.
A moist, not soaking wet sponge is used to evenly spread the glue over the entire plate while also removing all possible excess.
Leaves sticky, whitish layer, a bit like fine foam.
This I wipe off gently but quick with lint free cloth that is moistened with alcohol.
As the glue won’t dissolve well in alcohol it acts like a lube while the cloth removes further excess.
With this I get really good adhesion for larger prints and can remove the prints once the plate cooled down properly.
To make things much easier I have mid sized floor tile in my freezer, just a big larger than the plate.
Get it out, put the plate on it for a minute and hear it crackling already, once the plate is chilled the print comes off very easy.
