I tried a multicolor print and failed.
Material: PETG
Manufacturer: GEEETECH
Printing temp: 255C
Layer: 0.2
Stock settings.
Filament was dried for 24h hygro showing 23%.
I would like to see what do you make of this and more important how to avoid this kind of failure
Thank you
Gabi
I initially dried my filament with my X1C, got in the habit of weighing the spools to determine when they were dry since there was no hygrometer.
I recently bought an Eibos Easdry with a hygrometer, but still weigh the spools and dry them until they stop losing weight (moisture). I’ve found that they need to remain at 10% (air humidity) for at least an hour before they are completely dry.
Humidity in an environment changes to reach an equilibrium, Air gives up its moisture pretty easily, but moisture does not move out of plastic filament as quickly.
DRY filament stored with desiccant might still be OK at 23% air humidity in the container.
WET filament being dried will have more moisture than that when the dryer hygrometer reaches 23%.
If you don’t have a digital scale for weighing, aim for 10% humidity in your dryer.
So, basically are you saying the failure is because the filament is wet? How do you explain the first 2 layers come out perfect? Just thinking out loud, not judging.
GEEETECH filaments, particularly the PLA and the PETG ones have constantly failed me as well. I bought GEEETECH filament based on the positive reviews from other users as well as due to the price they charged per roll. However, it turned out that GEEETECH filament doesn’t work well with X1C, the result being lots of failed prints and lots of lost time. Also, their filament rolls are tangled stopping the print process, generating AMS errors and overall delivering poor results. I’ve learned my lesson the hard way, as the difference in price doesn’t cover for either the failed prints and the time lost solving these recurring issues. Consequently, I’ve decided to use only trustworthy, reliable and time proven filament manufacturers like Polytech, Sunlu, eSun, Anycubic, Creality and alike, even if the prices they charege are higher, the quality and reliability of their filament has become more important than the lower price charged by GEEETECH.
I am starting to think the same. Just ordered I spool of Hatchbox. It will be here tomorrow. Will see then.
I cannot say for certain that wet filament is causing the stringing, but it is a very common reason for that sort of trouble.
I’ve adopted a rule: When in doubt, dry it out.
I’ve also had difficulties with some PETG because it need a higher nozzle temperature than either Bambu or the manufacturer suggested - found that out by printing a temperature tower.
Perhaps the first layers printed OK because being on the outside of the spool they were drier than the inner wraps?
I doubt it’s wet filament. It looks more like a slicer issue to me. But need more details on the model and how it was sliced.
Was it printed that way up, or the picture against the plate?
The black outline should have printed on the first layer, is it all black underneath? Did you watch the first layer go down?
Is the stringing just on the top layer?
The more details you can give will make diagnosing easier.
The picture was facing the PEI plate (70C). Photos 1, 3 and 4. It is not my design. I found it on Maker world. I sliced with 0.2 stock settings.
First 3 layers come down perfect and then quite few again fine.
Printing starts with skin color, switch to black and switch again with white.
As you can see on the new photos the problem appear later only on black.
Strange…
Thank you for taking time to have a look.
Gabi
I’ve not used the 0.2 nozzle yet but it looks like the outer wall layers have separated. This could be because the outer layer takes longer to lay down and is cooling too quickly. Sorry I don’t have more time to help you diagnose but there’s a lot of knowledgeable people on here. It’s definitely strange.
