PETG-HF is a DISASTER imho

I’d like to know if the OP tried different print settings once the filament was dried, I print a lot of PETG from lots of different manufacturers from the cheapest to the more expensive, I have used 15kg so far this week alone. I have found that after drying if I’m still getting problems with the print in the way of stringing adjusting the zhop usually cures the problem’s, some PETG hates zhop and I have to turn it of and others are fine with it.

This can even vary between batches and colours. The second thing I have found to affect PETG is retraction, it can cause holes and defects in the print, sometimes to get good prints I need to severely reduce this and speed up the deretraction speed, for example standard retraction is set to 3mm, with esun PETG solid white have to use 0.4mm and zhop standard is 0.4mm and with Esun PETG I set it to 0.1mm, if printing overture I can leave retraction as is and need zhop set to 0.18mm. If I’m printing black it’s different again.

This also varies between mine and my friend’s printer, we both have P1P’s setup with the same hardware. It also varies depending on what nozzle is being used, the larger the nozzle the more obvious the issues in the print will be. I think a lot of this comes down to the ozzey nature of PETG.

I’ll try to find some photos of the test I did but mainly zhop reduction helps with stringing on PETG and reducing retraction length and speeding up deretraction deals with holes or defects happening after a seem or the start point of a layer or wall.

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Thanks for asking but alas, no I did not.

I was not and am not really interested. All I cared about was how much better this filament was than PETG Basic. I was excited to try something genuinely better as a PETG alternative and had higher than average expectations — because, well, BambuLab.

BambuLab have thus far set the standard in FDM printing. Their goal and the track record is in producing stuff that, “just works”. I admire them greatly and respect them even more. I will not however let such emotions cloud facts. BambuLab are practically heroes to me. I celebrate them for everything they have done to date. Everything, except this, which simply bamboozles me.

I’m sure you’re absolutely right. But you missed the point entirely. Did you actually read anything I wrote?

I see the four hour “slow mode” has been removed. Thank you.

Can you please clarify what you mean by, “find a solution”? All I have done — or at least, all I originally intended to do — was share a customer experience. What exactly are we wanting to “solve”?

Speaking in private concerns me because then the community doesn’t get to witness what is said and you will get to make conclusions in any context you so desire. I sincerely hope and may even trust that your intentions are just and faithful to the company’s stated mission but after the wildly out-of-context “fanboy” responses I have received here, I am left doubting.

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We are just trying to figure out more about the spool of filament you used, what settings were used and the order number so we can ship you a replacement for it.

For obvious reasons, we wouldn’t want you to share private information publicly on the forum about this.

If you wish for us to provide assistance for this problem, but don’t wish to continue the discussion privately, then please open a ticket and share more details so our team can assist.

As mentioned previously, this PETG-HF issue is not something we have seen before, and we are trying to find out why it happened then give you the chance to try it again with a new spool.

If the filament is kept away from moisture and also dried, it should perform very well.

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First of all: Calm down. In this as in other comments, you’re all over the place, making baseless accusations.

This seems to be a trend you follow: You have assumptions and then without any investigation whatsoever, you run with it, draw a pointless conclusion without any evidence.

I am not and have never been, sponsored by anyone in the 3D printing business. In fact, the only sponsor I’ve ever had was Sony Imaging (Europe) in an entirely different context.

I have no desire to “make it work”. The entire roll is in the trash.

Oh but you did. You tried a few things to make it work. Not necessarily the right ones - or maybe they were the right ones. As I’ve stated previously but you keep ignoring it, it’s impossible to know without you providing further data.

Tell us how you do your math; how does a filament that prints marginally faster actually print faster if is has to be dried for hours before you can even hit start?

I am not here in any capacity as a math teacher. It should go without saying that any preparation time does not directly affect print time. I also wrote earlier that you can dry multiple rolls at a time - you’re not bound to just dry one at a time.

then seriously, what is your point? I don’t care. My points remain valid. It is NOT an upgrade to normal PETG and should NOT replace PETG Basic and to say that it is or can or should is obviously pure folly.

You’re being stubborn again here, and refuse to listen to a rational train of thought.

PETG-HF is superior to standard PETG in terms of flow rate, which is exactly what the “HF” stands for. This in turns affects volumetric flow (which affects print speed) and surface quality.

Since the flow rate can be measured and compared, the above statement is factual - but since this is also a new material, there is a risk of batches with a chemistry that’s off. That’s how it is being a first-mover - not just for filament, but for anything.

You claim to have used FDM printers for a long time, so you should know this. How did the first delta printers perform? The first H-bot? The first CoreXY?

You drew a conclusion on the basis of handling ONE filament wrong at the beginning - and from that vector of ONE, you know “have the truth”.

You could never work in any science field with that approach.

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Thank you for the offer. Without any ill intended, I am not personally interested in pursuing a new roll. I have no personal use for a PETG that so readily soaks up moisture, needs to be dried and kept dry considerably more so than its PETG Basic predecessor but which also offers no practical gains to warrant that extra care. This roll out of the factory bag was so much worse than even nylon 12 (other supplier) I could scarcely believe it. I have assumed that if it can be that way fresh out of the bag then must be at least as difficult to keep dry as nylon. (this is from observing printed plastic under a microscope. Thousands of exploded bubbles all bunched up right next to and overlapping each other.)

I mean, I suppose I should accept a new roll just to be absolutely certain but I’ve already seen reviews on YouTube showing essentially the same results I had, with the similar pleas to have the stuff at least dried at the factory before packaging.

Do you really wish to go through all this again? If so or if perhaps you want to confirm that I actually did order the filament, the order number was: gb391184735. My contact details should become available to you from there.

Please know that I have no angst or bad feelings towards BambuLab other that the personal surprise I have already stated. I am one of your longest running customers — an early Kickstarter backer and I genuinely applaud everything the company and its staff have done for us all, including for me personally when needed. This offer bears further testament to that most excellent reputation.

By drying, with a scale.

Drying for X hours at Y temperature is not a guarantee that the filament will be dry because the initial moisture content is unknown.

My standard practice for every spool of filament. Open the bag, weigh the spool, record the weight, dry the spool until it stops losing weight.

Finished with the filament for a time?
If it has been out for more than a half day in our 60%+ humidity, weigh and dry again.
Record the dry weight, store the spool in an airtight container/bag with dry desiccant.
Ready to use again? Weigh the spool before use, more than 2 grams weight gain means it goes back in the dryer until dry.

I learned the need for drying as soon as I finished the sample spool of Bambu PLA that came with my X1C. That first full spool of (non-Bambu) PETG was a disaster until it was dried. Ditto TPU. Ditto PC. Every new spool since has lost 2 to 8 grams of weight after drying. Some new PLA has lost only a couple grams in the initial drying, but there is no way to predict that without drying.

I’ve had no issues caused by “overdrying”. Some filaments have been dried a dozen times before being used up, some have been forgotten and left in the dryer for days.

I’m not defending Bambu or their PETG-HF. Never tried it, likely never will. No AMS here, no need for RFID, or Bambu prices.

Ensuring dryness is a nuisance, but all the filament brands and materials I’ve used have benefited from drying completely. That’s just the way it is.

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This is my practice as well. The only caveat to that is those spools that are cardboard.

As a separate experiment, I dried an empty cardboard spool once that had been laying out in the open for many months. My office averages less than 40% RH. I found that it had 7g of moisture. One wouldn’t have thought so just by picking it up but the spool weight was 7g less after 8 hours at 65c. I left it in the drier for 12, 24 and 36 hours just to see where the bottom was. After 8 hours it didn’t change much leaving me to believe that it may have met max dehydration much sooner than that.

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So much absorbs moisture. Off topic but for those with pellet grills, microwaving pellets before using them on smoke settings gets rid of a lot of water - so much they can steam after.

On topic, I’ll be posting the air dryer soon that I’ve been working on. Printing the last part to verify fits now. A dry air flow will really help common filament dryers.

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See, the problem is, is that people want to understand the problems you faced with PETG-HF. People are interested in it, and interested in using it. You posted your experience, and you obviously had a bad time. People want to know and understand why that is, because it affects their choice in trying it too. They have to ask those questions and dig a little deeper, because it’s not obvious if the problem was caused by you yourself, or if there is deeper issues with the filament itself. You hadn’t provided enough context to satisfy those questions.

No favors have been won by going on and attacking those users either. Pardon me to be so blunt, but it just seems to push this idea further that the problems are with you, and not with the filament.

You clearly didn’t want any help, just wanted to post and complain and move along with your day. Nothing wrong with that; sometimes you have a bad experience and want to vent a little. Maybe you should have made that clear. I will say that the users of this forum are keen on helping, understanding, probing and prodding.

They (the users of this forum) want to understand the problem. They want to understand the new filament and it’s pros and cons. They want to help their fellow users succeed.

I’ve been watching because I’m very keen on trying PETG-HF. I’m a little frustrated by your responses and everything. It doesn’t make clear if the problem is with the filament, or what. I’ve seen people have great success with it, so it’s at odds with your experience here, and you haven’t provided enough information that I can make an informed decision on if it’s a product I’d want to buy. I wont assume just because you had a bad experience that I will too.

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Hi

[multiple edits for grammatical recourse]

I understand that. I have no problem with that. My angst solely concerns being told I’m doing things wrong, followed by strong implications that it can’t possibly be the filament, along with statements and accusations that are wildly twisted out of context by a single poster who seems to have some bee under his bonnet and a penchant for mind manipulation, which I am immune to but clearly other readers are not.

I’m sorry but “Print settings” have precisely NOTHING to do with exploding bubbles of water. Any fool knows that. (That’s a common English phrase. Is never implies that anyone is a literal fool.)

Your post for example seems perfectly fine to me. Overly so, even. I very much appreciate you taking the time and being so careful to communicate concisely and to not offend, whilst making your points. Yours is the type of post I should probably aspire to. I’m trying. Truthfully. It’s not easy for me, at times.

That said, I am under no obligation to answer questions if I either don’t know the answers or indeed, simply don’t want to. I do want to, actually, if I’m treated with a modicum of respect. (Despite myself at times being an easily triggered, autistic hypocrite. No denying it.)

That ONE other.

I don’t mind you being blunt at all. I encourage it, in fact! I cannot pardon you for using the word “complain” though because that statement is entirely illogical. I might invite you to explain how in any fashion what-so-ever anything I did or did not do, say or not say would cause or not cause bubbles of water exploding into steam?

This sounds like mysterious social norm, deviation from accepted pattern, emotional clouding objective meaning, following by drawing illogical conclusion of wildly errant context. I have a low tolerance for that but have learned that it’s more normal than not and so have no choice but to try to live with it.

It happen the other way around too, you know? Someone with a Nobel Peace prize for actions toward world peace or something ends up being trusted with their entirely made up opinions about nuclear fusion or macro economics. It’s ridiculous, but I digress.

I think I understand the point you’re trying to make (or maybe not) but especially as a person with ASD (autism) I find it difficult to tolerate such bending of contexts. I do not and cannot or at least adamantly refuse to entertain emotional nonsense over simple facts. Why anyone else does is utterly beyond my comprehension.

I wasn’t looking for any favors … but I may be taking that word too literally? sigh … perhaps you mean that I somehow invited “bad vibes” from others with my communication style and/or lack of patience with their BS? Oh … I think I just did it again, yeah? :confused:

Correct!! OMG Thank you! I thought I had been very clear.

Now that’s not fair. I was NOT complaining. Please explain how anything in my original post, taken as writ is a “complaint”. Moaning, perhaps but not complaining. (I guess ironically, this paragraph is a complaint.)

Indeed.

Ummm … I’m not sure I understand. Did I ask for any assistance or even imply I wanted or needed any? I mean, I think get it, actually, but how much typing of such things is too much or not enough? I wasn’t writing a formal essay. It was as it was.

OK but who made me the official reviewer of filaments? It was very clear to me that I was making outgoing statements, with no questions, no plea for help, etc. Those who asked questions respectfully have received respectful answers, including yourself. What did I do that was objectively wrong, exactly? I mean, sure. I got pissed off with one “fool” (I’m allowed that opinion) and told him so, which turned out to be some kind of social acceptance mistake.

So how does this work? He’s allowed to insult the ■■■■ out of me if he just so happens to write it in a nicer way over a half dozen paragraphs of nonsense? (Of the type I fear this right here is turning into. D’oh!)

That hardly seems fair from a technical perspective and certainly does nothing to help anyone here. I suppose it’s one of those “socially acceptable” or “woke mind virus” things?

IIRC, I didn’t lose my cool until the dude persisted with his rhetoric. I should probably try harder to remember to just outright ignore idiots. (Not saying I am not an idiot. I surely am but what to do?) Also, I may not be recalling correctly and I’m too tired to go back and check. My bad.

As was I! Very keen and hence so very shocked and disappointed. Not so much at the filament itself, with its particular needs — which doesn’t matter to me AT ALL by the way — but because this stuff is to REPLACE PETG Basic. That can’t be right.

Granted. I’m sorry. Had I known you or anyone else was expecting that from me, perhaps I could have taken the time and made the effort to do a more thorough analysis?

However, even if I did a full scientific analysis with the best electron microscopes, X-rays and high speed macro videography, the fact remains that several people have insisted that my experience does not match theirs — including, now, BambuLab themselves. I wouldn’t dream of even trying to build a fair review case on the basis of a single roll of filament I happened to receive. Glad I didn’t try — or am I? Not so sure now to be honest. (Again not YOU but that other fool.)

That said … BambuLab have in bold red letters, “Must be dried before use” (or words to that effect.) So, it seemed reasonable at the time to include in my summary opinion this fact alongside my objective observation of just HOW wet the stuff was and therefore CAN GET.

I’m going to push back on that with a degree of disbelief. When searching “BambuLab PETG HF” and similar on YouTube, there are currently only a handful of results. The first is a gentleman politely observing the exact same things as I did, albeit only with less moisture content and just two Benchy prints. The others are indeed evidence of great results BUT none of them even mention the need to dry their filament and NONE of them have (or could have) taken an opened roll off a shelf from their usual PETG Basic storage location two months down the track to discover anything at all. I doubt they have any reason to even think of such a thing, come to that. I do and now, so do you.

What am I to assume from all that?

I would also note that Maker’s Muse, 3D Printing Nerd, Made with Layers (Tom Salanderer) etc have not published anything at all. I’m be surprized if they haven’t received roll for review. I could be forgiven for suspecting that they too have concerns and are working in the background with BambuLab before publishing their findings. Clearly, that’s pure guessing, but it fits.

That is very wise and exactly what I would expect of any intelligent individual to do. Please do buy your own. It’s not expensive and please do report your findings.

I didn’t provide practically ANY information. It’s true. I’m sorry. I was shocked and dismayed and I guess sort of forgot BambuLab’s reputation to date. It’s hardly common place, after all. What would you have done? Probably what I should have done and what I would usually do. Absolutely nothing. Lesson learned.

Amazing. I have no words. Genuinely. It’s amazing that someone would take such care with their filament. Good for you! I just don’t believe anyone else should have to. They haven’t, until now, far as I know.

I have flagged this original post and entire thread, asking that it be deleted.

Thank you to those of you who have been reasonable.

To the bullies. What goes around comes around. Good luck with that.

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Not sure about all the excitement. OP bought some new filament, didn’t like the drying requirements, decided the filament was no use to him and dumped the spool. Sometines the juice isn’t worth the squeeze.

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I had kind of the same thing happen with a spool of Bambu black that was part of the bad lot or manufacturer change or whatever it was. It would do those top surface ridges, weak interlayer adhesion, etc, but the kicker was when the filament broke in three places three different times and I had to disassemble an AMS twice and extract a bit out of the print head. The problems were coming fast so I gave up and threw the filament away. Then the reports of bad black and white PLA started hitting and the light went on.

I still have a two pack of bad jade white that I missed the return window on but those will get used as experiment and control for testing filament drying. So some value after all but not sure it’s $50 worth of value.

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I totally agree. Given the still experimental state of the industry, keeping bad filaments on hand still has value in that it allows one to revisit new remedies as they become available. In my case, I had a bad spool of Bambu Gold Silk. Who knew that drying PLA would be a remedy? After all, it clearly states on their site “Drying Optional”. It still didn’t fix it totally but vastly improved it. I keep that spool in a sealed bag with desiccant and moisture card as a reference spool as I do with spool of Bambu White PETG, another subpar product in my experience.

Let’s be candid, the only thing going right now in my experience for Bambu is their RFID pretty spools. As a non-AMS use, that has very little merit for me and my experiences with other filaments overwhelmingly out-perform Bambu. Nevertheless, I will no doubt acquire the new PETG the next time I have to purchase parts simply to meet the free shipping minimum. That may not be for as much as a year at this pace.

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I’ve been following this post and I just realized that, for once, I could contribute something relevant and maybe useful. I had 8 spools of PETG-HF sitting here that I had been waiting to try, 4 Bambu and 4 Elegoo. My original plan was to print something un-dried and then dry it as best I could (my filament drier only goes to 60 degrees) and print it again. The pictures attached are Bambu PETG-HF Red (refill). It was printed on an X1C (from the AMS) using the default X1C 0.2 profile and the new Bambu PETG-HF filament profile. The refill was opened and put directly in the AMS on a high temp Bambu reusable spool. The pictures were taken immediately after it was removed from the print bed. I know none of this is scientific and it’s a different spool and color. I just wanted to post another example to compare in case the OP recieved a bad batch. This was my first time ever using PETG so it could be beginners luck. I didnt do a post-dry version because I was happy with these.





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That’s purdy.

I have a roll of Elegoos PETG-HF coming. Firgured I’d see if it’s something I’ll use before investing a lot into it.

I hear it prints well too.

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My god dude, just take the L. You failed to read the dozens of warnings everywhere that you must dry before printing. You failed to research what temperature PETG needs to be dried at and you put it at 55c thinking it would work. Then you failed at interacting with the community that is only trying to help you learn. You just yelled at everyone and called them trolls for asking the settings and fools if they didn’t agree that your perfect and did nothing wrong. You then tried claiming speed won’t have any effect on bubbling wet filament and proceeded to make fun of someone for saying that. (Guess what you failed again because speed plays a great deal in wet filament. The faster you print, the more pressure that is built up in the nozzle, the more pressure in the nozzle when a steam bubble pops the more violent the pop, the worse the print quality). Instead of just saying my bad I should have read things before ranting, you double down on how you did nothing wrong and it’s the filaments fault not yours. Funny how me and nearly everyone else, who followed the instructions, has had amazing results. Just move on

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