When watching it print the tower it looks like jelly as the hotend pushes it down and it curls back up. I am going to try some solid PETG and see how that looks later.
Turn off first layer inspection in printer options
Auto calibration turn off trust me set you flow to 1.05 for eSun petg should be real close
I will print a small part of eSun magenta TP petg @ 280 for you at all these settings
Texture built plate
You are running the .4 nozzle correct ?
eSun PETG Magenta TP @ 280c with only 3 walls @ .2 layer height all the base settings above
The solid petg colors will be different temps
Oh yeah first layer inspection is off after the last print 
I only left autocalibration on when doing the tower on the eng plate, but will make those changes tonight and try again.
Yup 0.4 nozzle
Thank looks sweet.
I am thought I would mess around again with the textured plate looks like the issues I had thinking it was a clog happens in the same place every time (happened again). Print was centred. I have moved it to the bottom (closer to the door) and rotated it to see what happens. Is it possibly I just have a ■■■■ Textured plate?
Put a straight edge on the heated bed to see if its flat if that ok then check your bed leveling.
One more thing you have the current firmware ?
Also clean your texture plate with hot water and dish soap if you have not done that already
Hey All,
Just wanted to update everyone on my PETG issues. After trying 2 different brands of petg (one being eSUN) and not having any luck I went and picked up a new roll from a friend (eSUN) also to give it a go and it just worked…
FWIW the first 2 rolls were dried out for ~6 hours ea. I am going to to give these rolls to a mate to test on their printer and report back. What are the chances I just had a ■■■■ batch? 
All in all I have translucent magenta (eSun PETG) printing nicely.
I minor issue on how the first layer looks top and bottom of print. But I think I have that nutted out.
Thanks everyone for your patience and help, lesson learnt I need more filament on hand 
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Cool your printing petg now 
You can also change infill direction angle if you want to change the pattern look.
Also some petg retraction settings can need other combinations to work I have some eSun white petg that needed these settings to keep it from stringing.
My X1 with .4 Nozzle was
Flow Ratio 0.9975
PA 0.038
Nozzle 265c
Length 1.1
Z hop when retracting 0
Retraction speed 40
Deretraction speed 30
Travel 0.6
Wipe distance 0.2
All other boxes unchecked
Happy 3D Printing 
Have you run an volume test print yet? Bambu printers just don’t run all filaments well in the suggested speed and heat range. The volume test will let you see exactly what speeds your filament can be printed. This is important on a Bambu, because their “normal” speeds are far greater than the suggested speeds.
It’s pretty simple, just download it, change the filament in Orca to what you are using, which will require you to transfer the settings or recreate them. If you can’t transfer them cleanly, you will just change the volumetric max on the filament profile page to a ridiculous number like 50mm3 and then jump in the filament’s profile page for “Cooling” and uncheck the setting that forces it to “Slow down for better layer cooling”. Then run it. Just stop it when things start to come off the tracks. For PETG, that will likely be less than 10mm of printing height. You’ll notice the print speed pick up every couple of millimeters until the print starts getting rough. On the slicer it will show you what speed is being run at various heights so you can set your filament to the volumetric flow your printer and filament is good for and this will automatically set you max speeds.
https://www.printables.com/model/359001-slower-volumetric-flow-test-for-bambu-lab
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Hi altogether,
I am also plagued with PETG-Issues on my X1C. I read the posts here, tried the settings, contacted bambu support and tried their settings, too. I could not get my printer to print PETG properly.
I use Prusament PETG. In my case the nozzle constantly loses filament which then gets distributet over the buildplate an the already printed layers. I cannot use first layer scan because of this and for the rest of the print it´s pure luck if the print will be completed. Sometimes also the extruder gets clogged badly.
I also tried orca slicer to dial in everything manually. The calibration plates were printed fine without all the automatic stuff and only being constantly printed layers without stops in between. As soon as it has to stop at one point an resum at another point it smears around with too much filament.
Also when it does nozzle clean after the first layer scan it comes back from the cleaning station with a string of filament hanging to the nozzle and destroying the first layer. This also often occurs with PLA, not just with PETG.
Has anyone an idea what could be the issue here?
What’s interesting is that your zero sample looks over extruded and under extruded at the same time to me. Your surface is incredibly smooth and looks closer to an injection molded part. I’ve never had PETG with a top layer that smooth. Yet it still has holes in between the perimeter and infil which is a sign of under extrusion. Edit: Ok I didn’t look at the first picture. Apparently it was just the lighting, can you upload a picture of pass 1?
I didn’t look at each one, but I did notice some corners that appeared to be warped as well, could be the lighting though? The ideal layer should look something like the picture below. In this case, +5 looked better than 0 to me, so that’s what I went with.
When you did the Orca calibration, did you start with the Generic PETF profiles? Feel free to DM me if you’d like to give my PETG profile a go.
I’m suffering from the same issue today … I did two things which seems to have resolved the issue.
- I rebooted my printer.
- I gave my textured plate a good scrubbing with dish soap, water, and a brush
Prints are back to normal.
So perhaps the printer was buggy… or it was lack of adhesion to the plate. I’m leaning towards the printer reboot.
Thanks for your answer and help and sorry for my late reply. I didn´t notice that someone reacted to my post.
Here are some pictures of pass 1:
I don´t know which calibration plate exactly I went with in the end but I found some settings that now work for me for this particular model.
I started with the generic profile and since it didn´t work I installed orca and did the manual calibration procedure.
I also tuned down the number of walls (I had them set to a number so the model is solid) so there are not so many small areas to fill with short extrusions which caused stringing and blobs. Instead I used 3 oter walls and 100 % infill to fill the model where the printer fills the model in longer continuing extrusions.
What orca seems to ignore is the setting to print only one outer wall on the top surface. For the first layer this setting is applied in the slice, for the top layer it is ignored and it always prints the 3 outer walls.
So far I have only printed this model in PETG so I don´t know yet if these settings would work for other models too.
Also Bambu sent me a new nozzle and extruder but that didn´t make any difference. I cannot use the first layer inspection and automatic flow calibration reliably because the nozzle always looses some filament while the printhead is traveling over the bed to do it´s scanning stuff and sometimes it carries a 5 cm long string of filament out of its cleaning station. If I´m lucky, everything works fine and the dripping filament gets lost somewhere outside the model. If I´m not so lucky it end somewhere in the last layer and the nozzle crashes into it while printing the following layer…
Glad that solved your issue. In my case it seems to be other issues since it did it from the start so also on the new plate and also after multiple cleaning and restarting procedures.
Hi, I’m having some trouble too in my X1C with eSun PETG, at first all prints worked with the black PETG but when I changed it to white and all prints fail on me, either for builplate adhesion, layer shifts, or even the nozzle starts building up material and ends up dragging the parts around, I even have bad quality finish with holes on the parts. I could really use some help here…
I have tried to print this thing with multiple different settings, with glue, without glue, slowing it down, and nothing seems to work. I can print just one and it generally prints right (sometimes it also fails), but when I try to print them it batches of more than one the machine they come out terrible or the first layer is a disaster.
If the black PETG is the same material and works, the problem maybe the white filament. A generic problem for PETG is moisture. Try to dry the filament and print again after drying.
Is it possible your bed is not perfect level ? i got cuts on petg in firstlayer because the bed was not proper level. in wiki is a how to level. other thing i get booger balls and strips on filamentwhich is anoying because it can cause a bad print. dont know why this happens on a fresh PETG roll out of the box.
The different color filaments even from the same vendor definitely perform differently. I had to set up separate profiles for white and yellow PETG. Black and blue work the same. I also learned the hard way that the build plate really does have to be kept clean. I use soap and water and a melamine sponge on it when things start not adhering. Oh, I’ve been using Hatchbox PETG for some time, it works fine for me. I tend to print at lower speed than I could probably get away with, that seems to avoid some issues. Finally, the printer warns me occasionally that I should open the door to ‘avoid nozzle clogging’. I don’t. The couple of times I tried it, I got adhesion issues. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Different colour from same vendor petg can require different settings. Its a good idea to run temp, flow & pa calibrations for each colour.
Ive also had adhesion issues with petg using the bambu plate. I started using garolite months ago & it is the best build surface for petg imo.
This filament is always printed with the door open. It seems to have more issues with door closed like nozzle buildup & cooling.
Lots of good info here - figured i’d bring up my issue on this thread since it may be related, rather than starting a new thread.
I’m having an issue where PETG lifts from the print bed in the back left corner of my X1C, no matter which build plate i’m using. I have a few textured PEI plates and have been using those for PETG. fully cleaned with IPA and wiped with a microfiber cloth before printing. no matter what, on prints that take up the full print bed - the back left corner starts to come up after a while. I’m thinking it may be because of airflow in or out of the waste chute?
My printer is in my basement where it says fairly cool - especially because it’s winter. It’s about 15-16 ºC down there. And the solution I came up with to print with materials like ASA, CF Nylon and PC was to wrap the printer in a few layers of radiant barrier. This works incredibly well and the print chamber is able to get to 60ºC when needed. however, this means the chamber heats up significantly when printing with PLA or PETG and probably doesn’t need to. I’ve tried keeping the door open a little - that works fine for PLA, but doesn’t seem to make a difference for PETG.
On the filament - it’s Matterhackers Ryno, which I just happened to have laying around. And not to try to cause inception, but maybe the filament is bad? It was on sale when I bought it and I think they stopped making it. No idea. Filament has been kept dry, and the relative humidity where I live is ~28-20º. the humidity in the AMS is like 18º. I’ve done the PA and flow calibrations for this filament and the first half of the spool printed just fine.
Anyway - let me know if I’m barking up the wrong tree.
Thanks!