I have a Prusa MK3S for personal use and I use an X1C at work. We print a lot of PETG boxes with text labeling on the top (first layer). My Prusa prints beautifully, but the X1C seems to just ooze a lot. I’ve tried printing on the Engineering plate as well as the Textured plate. The plate is properly selected in the slicer.
Has anyone else experienced this? Does anyone have suggestions for first layer temperature, retraction settings, or something else to combat this?
I’ve printed a pissload of PETG of late, single and multi color prints, without a single issue.
I am religious about drying it. The AMS doesn’t dry wet filament, or keep filament dry indefinitely, it just slows down the rate of moisture absorption. So new spools are always dried first, and every few days, or a week at most, filament comes out of the AMS and goes back in to the dryer for the night.
I made a mistake in one early print and had Bambu generic ASA selected as the profile for the PTEG I was using. Even that printed great. In fact, I use that preset when I’m printing PETG as support material for Nylon. PETG isn’t really recommended as support for Nylon, but ASA/ABS is. I thought I’d grabbed a spool of ASA but I wasn’t paying attention. I’d done a half dozen prints before I realized. Worked so well as an interface material I stuck with it in spite of my mistake. 
I’ve had great success with petg but I would see if the manufacturer of your filament already has a filament and print profile. I use the eSun profile and it works great.
Also given how different each filament roll can behave run a PA and flow claibration to make sure those values are good. My black petg was quite different from my white
I notice there is also quite a few retraction overides in the fiament config whihc make sense given how stringy and sticky petg is.
If you are using BambuSlicer I’d ask to have OrcaSlicer added to your system, it feels more like PrusaSlicer and has the same depth of tweaking you are used to, calibrations are mostly scripted already in Orca. Especially check out the temperature test should be able to stop most of the ooze with it more dialed in temperature and constant saved K values which Bambu doesn’t save
I agree sounds like the filament needs dried.
Had the same issue here.
Was printing on prusas mk3s+ for over a year now without any issues. For the prusa I was printing directly on a smooth plate with no glue on 250 degrees nozzle temperature and at 100 degrees bed and 0.87 flow ratio . The outcome is always a perfect first layer and print.
Recently I have bought a bambu x1c and I was trying to make any adjustments and I am trying to calibrate the filament for that printer.
My main issue is that I cant make the filament stick on the bed whatever I do. I am always printing with a bed to 100 degrees. I have tried: 1. Printing on the cool plate (pla) with glue 2. On the engineering plate (pet g) with and without glue 3. Raising the nozzle temperature starting from 250 up to 280. 4. Increasing the first layer height and width. 3. Using your colourfabb HT profile from printables with no success.
Most of the times the nozzle starts printing the start of it lifts the filament up and then it is pulled off after the nozzle passes again from the same place.
Wondering if you managed to sort it out…