I just purchased the P1P for primarily printing PETG (still waiting for it to arrive). I have been printing PETG on a Prusa for years with the textured PEI sheet. I have never used a glue stick and the PETG sticks great and pops off flawlessly when the print cools with the Prusa. Is this the same with the P1P printer? Do I need the glue stick as noted on the manual for PETG on the textured sheet?
Also, I have a bunch of Hatchbox PETG and Overture PETG that I would like to use up with the P1P. Has anyone had luck with these and did you use the generic settings. On the Prusa I used a nozzle temp of 250 and bed temp of 95.
I’m struggling to understand this whole glue thing and I’ll use your thread to express my confusion…
I’m not using glue sticks. I tried with my first couple of prints. In retrospect, glue didn’t improve adhesion at all, all it did was leave whitish blemishes on the face of the print. So I washed that ■■■■off my plate and just started printing with out anything but the plate and my intestinal fortitude. I’ve printed PLA, ABS, ASA, PETG and PA/PAHT so far without problems getting the filament to stick on the first layer or getting the parts to release when the print was done. My plates don’t have a blemish or pockmark on them so their surfaces aren’t being harmed.
The only things I do that I think might pertain are: I always heat the build plate, even for PLA. I print my first layer at 50mm/s speed. And I let the print/plate cool off before I attempt to remove the prints (open door, slide out plate so most of it is sticking out but a little is still engaged with the magnets so it all just hangs in the air and gets plenty of cooling airflow around all sides). With ABS and ASA, once the print itself has cooled off, the stuff literally falls off the build plate. Turn the plate over and give it a light tap and the prints release…
I have the P1P since march and have printed nearly 5 spools (1000g) PETG, mostly functional parts, and have never used glue stick. For special parts like the P1P enclosure parts (see picture) I have used 3D lack (it’s like hair spray).
I’m using different brands, for example from Extrudr (XPETG & PETG), Sunlu or also a very cheap from a local company. A little bit tricky is the XPETG from Extrudr. It has a nice matte surface but it’s warping a lot.
No glue needed for PETG and the textured plate. But note, fingerprints on the plate will fail a print very quickly. PEI and fingerprints never go well, so that shouldn’t be a surprise, but fingerprints likely account for many of the issue people have.
I was curious one day and purposely put a fingerprint on the build plate and printed on it, and like clockwork, it failed in that exact area. BTW, that was with PETG.
As far as my overall experience with adhesion… its been nearly perfect on my P1P with the bare plate. Lots of PETG with no helper chemicals and I can’t remember ever having a warped PETG print. So if you setup your print correctly, it will come out well.
Oh… on settings, for me the generic profile has been great. The generic profile will have a higher nozzle temp but a lower bed temp.
You might be able to run a max flow volume test and tweak the volumetric flow, or other tests like retraction and temp towers, but largely the profile just worked for me. I’ve used XVICO, Bambu, and Polymaker PETGs and all print fine with the generic profile, with Bambu’s printing fine with faster profile settings as well. I did feel like the Polymaker was at its speed limit on the generic profile, but the others seemed to be comfortably printing along. Note, I’ve only printed black and clear PETGs.
Thanks for your thoughts. I have had the same issue with fingerprints in the past with the Prusa. I solved it by spraying the sheet lightly with 91% isopropyl alcohol and wiping with a microfiber cloth just before I started each print. It takes just a moment or two and I never had any adhesion problems since.
With Bambu’s build plates (not the textured PEI, but the others) the glue was always so the PETG didn’t stick TOO WELL to the plate. It was never to improve adhesion.
Even now, people are not quite understanding this, because of course it’s backwards. For decades glue was used as glue is meant to be used — for adhesion… but with Bambu build plates they recommend using it more as a membrane to aid in part release.
At any rate, they don’t really push the glue too hard for use with the textured PEI plate.
The Wiki actually says it helps with both adhesion and removal. But like I said, I haven’t had any issues with either sticking or removing prints in a wide range of materials on three different Bambu official plate types, and I’m not using glue stick at all… Always use heat, slow down the first layer, and wait for the plate to cool off before attempting part removal is all I do and it works great. Haven’t had a single print fail for first layer adhesion and after a few dozen prints now, my plates are unmarred, no material removed from the plate surfaces.
I print Econofil and Neat PETG on the textured PEI plate without any glue. I try to be carieful not to touch the surface of the plate with my hands. That way, I can do dozens of prints without cleaning. And then when I do clean it, Just spray generic household cleaner on it and wash it under running water.
I’ve never had any issues not using glue with Petg on any of the build plates. I use it quite often with both the textured plates and the smooth peo/pet plates on the high temp plate setting and it pops right off when it’s cool.
I print Polymaker, Hatchbox, 3DXtech and Bambu PETG on the Bambu PEI plate with a light mist of Aquanet hairspray. It has never failed me. I hate brims and unless the part is extremely tall and skinny I never use a brim and don’t need to with this method.
I use petg on pei plate but needs at least a 70 degree bed temp. no glue ever on the pei for me and I’ve done small and large prints. I recently started using the engineering plate with Petg though and it is perfect. 55 bed temp and glue where the print will be. then wash glue off with warm water and its mint, prints come off eazy and can fire up another print immediately without cleaning the plate. hope i could help
