Hey there,
I try to print a wallet with my P1P and PETG (eSun in this Case).
Switched to Orca Slicer, because I need to overextrude the first layer a bit and underextrude the last one.
But the PETG keeps stringing although I drastically lowered speeds…
Here are my Filament Settings:
Changed Flow:
Speed (first try got destroyed by too high speeds apparently)
How long have you dried the PETG? Have you run the Orca calibrations and updated the config accordingly?
most of my issues related to PETG were from dampness so …
It was fresh out of vacuumed packaging… Do you think I need a dryer for it?
And which calibrations do you mean? I am pretty new to Orca…
Yes, never think its dry out of the packaging…I have gotten burt thinking it was dry out of the bag, doesnt matter who makes the filament, invest in a dryer it will save you tons of aggravation.
I see… Just ordered one from Sunlu. Seems like that thing can measure the residual moisture.
Okay, the PETG hat 55% RH
After drying it got back to 44%.
How “dry” should it be?
This is only the relative humidity of the air in the dryer, not the moisture of the petg itself.
Oh. Missunderstood that then.
How do I check, if its dry enough then? ^^"
You can’t, not in an easy way. That’s why all recommendations say things like "dry it for 10 hours at 70°C " or so. Read: "Dry it so long it can’t be humid anymore, under no circumstances. "
Personally, I would dry petg filament only if you have the strong feeling the moisture is a problem. Otherwise, it’s a big waste of energy.
Well it was stringing a lot ^^"
Yeah, this is a good reason…
Btw: lowering speeds is counterproductive when you fight stringing. The slower, the more time for the filament to ooze out.
I use a digital scale to weigh my spools and keep a record on the spool. Weight fresh out of the bag, after drying, after printing and before it goes back in the vacuum bag, again before the next print.
New spools are weighed and dried before use - most lose a couple grams, but I’ve seen losses of 4-6 grams. Some used spools gain weight after a couple weeks in a vacuum bag with desiccant. If the gain of a partial spool is more than a couple grams it goes back in the dryer.
I forgot a roll of PC on my X1C after a long print last week, so it was out of the bag for about 18 hours. I dried it before storing it and about 500 grams of PC filament lost seven grams of moisture. That’s 7cc, or half a tablespoon of water. Granted, some of that was in the cardboard spool.
I consider them dry when they quit losing weight in the dryer.
Well but I was not quite sure, if the quality stays good. The product is usually printed on a Prusa MK4.
Yes. PETG NEEDS heated drying before printing. anything less it strings like mad.
Edit: also PETG balls up on the side of the nozzle with any amount of over extrusion.
When I got my first Bambu I realized I had a huge filament handling issue that I knew I had, but did not think it was a big deal. My Anycubic and Creality machines were hidding the severity of it. Since then I invested in way too many AMS units, vaccume sealing, filament dryers, and ALOT of desicant. I used to hate using PETG so I had alot on hand, after drying, sealing, then drying before use I use a good bit of PETG on my Bambu printers with generic profiles (a few I had to tune flow rate in Orca Slicer) and some of these prints almost look injection molded. I found using PETG I was getting some faint VFA on some prints on the outside walls, I lowered outer wall acceleration to 3000…it was gone.
Why did you decrease accelerations down to 100? If using such acceleration for travel moves, no wonder you are getting strings - it takes ages for printhead to move from one location to another. Put these values back to default and only change speed.
