I just wonder how to find the optimal temperature for PETG on Bambu P1S?
I tried using nobufill PETG for printing small parts and it seems it’s overheated.
Even though there is no stringing and bridges are more or less fine, it’s too vicious during printing and easy to crack after.
It’s even difficult to remove the “initial line”, it’s rather “cracked” into hard pieces than unglued.
I used to use calibration towers on other printers but read that it’s not recommended on the fast ones as the results might be not actual.
Maybe there are some tips and tricks on how to find out an optimal temperature for a given filament and “type” of printing (e.g. for small pieces vs a big part).
It sounds like you are printing at the lower end of the possible temp range (no stringing, good bridging). Going 5 to 10° higher should do it. Also, a temp tower will not harm in itself if you are aware of the speeds used in the tower and for the actual print. Better to know and not need than not to know but need.
There are also quite a few discussions in the forum which may help with PETG. This one includes a bunch of further links.
Hope it helps
PS: Speed is an issue. Going faster can mean that you have to increase nozzle temp. But for complex parts with overhangs, you need to print cooler and hence slower.
I have optimised my PETG prints on a Benchy. I can easily see the effects of speed and temperature.
If PETG looks rather matt, it has been printed too cold. Then the print will not hold well in thin areas and will break quickly. You have to experiment with the temperature. The chimney of a Benchy is a good indicator. Try to break it off. It becomes more stable at higher temperatures and the volume speed should also be taken into account. Trying something like this out with a Benchy takes a while, but the changes are very easy to recognise.
However, as we don’t know the values of the settings, we won’t be able to say much more, and we don’t have any pictures.
