I have had 2 goes printing this lid and it appears the first layer to go down over the support is failing. I see a few posts suggesting support settings that might resolve support issues. I am hoping someone can suggest a specific solution after seeing this photo. Printer BL carbon x1.
Try making the model smaller and see what happens. I’m guessing the nozzle is dragging through the print and causing this but I’m no expert and just throwing out ideas. Any issues with the rest of the print? Are you using default print profiles (and which one) or have you changed settings?
I am using BL PETG Basic filament @ .2 mm Standard with default settings slowed a little on top surfaces. I am going to try reducing the Z distance on support from .2 to .1mm. If that doesn’t work I will print upside down and see how clean I can get the supported top surface post printing.
Hmm, that is odd. I print a lot of PETG, a little with BL filament, but don’t use supports often. When I do they are minimal so they usually come out alright.
Just so you aren’t wasting a bunch of filament, I’d try to mimic that model but much smaller. Then watch as it puts down that first layer to see where the issue is starting.
What infill are you using and you might try a different pattern. It almost looks like the first layer over the infill isn’t smooth which just leads to subsequent layers having the nozzle drag through the filament and with PETG, that’s a disaster with how sticky it is to itself.
I don’t understand the model. Is that over infill or over support?
It is the first layer on the support which is the inside surface of a lid.
I try to avoid support also. This is the first time I am trying to support a large flat area.
Experimenting with a smaller model is a good idea, thanks
Is it your model or did you get it somewhere? If you got it somewhere, did they have print setting suggestions? You could also try printing it in that position with thinner layers to see how it handles the fillets. Otherwise, print with support on in that position and see how that turns out. Maybe cut it into a small piece as a test but don’t reduce the size.
I had the same some weeks ago. For me it helped to reduce the speed of “internal solid infill” to 100mm/s.
There is no internal solid infill that matters at this stage. It’s between the interface layer and the bottom of the lid. What is your support material (looks like also PETG)? I think you get to play with the top-Z-distance and the speed of that first full layer (bridge speed?). You can also turn the support 45 degrees so it’s at a right angle to the first bridge layer. To me this looks like the bridge layer is not adhering to the support/interface layer.
If you print the lid the other way around reduce your layer height. Someone had a link to a graphic a couple of days ago why this really helps…
It looks like my problem with solid infill (the layer above the internal bridge), which ripped the internal bridge off at some places. I only have a picture of my later tries to solve this problem:
At the end slow down the speed for the solid infill has solved the problem for me.
Someone else made the model and he prints it with PLA and doesn’t have issues with support. I like to use PETG wherever possible so I will persevere and find the best way. I think printing it upside down with support which is just a narrow perimeter at the bottom of the up curve. Then sand back where the support was. It’s a convex edge so is easy to sand. I am doing a small test to see what it looks like.
Reducing the top Z distance on the support to .1mm did the trick although it was a mission to remove the support. Printing the top now with a top Z distance of .12mm to see if it still works and is maybe a bit easier to remove support.
Glad it worked. That first layer still look a bit wavy though.
It’s the outside that gets looked at. This is want I am making, a case for a server node.
Congrats!
Suggestions:
- Use line infill instead of grid to get rid of the infill printing through.
- Use adaptive layer height (it’s a paint tool) to get the curved edge smoother
You could print the model upside down. Those curves should not be difficult. If they really are then try the slicer setting “make overhangs printable” (Orca). That however may mess with your wholes so check them once sliced.