I just got a P1S and I am new to printing. I’m slowing finding out that while PETG is a better material choice in some cases, there is more involved to getting it tuned. My research has also lead me to the consensus that the default Bambu PETG profile is very off of what it should be.
I’m printing this chute model (Poop chute Carbon X1C - X1E - P1P - P1S by Chris1974 - MakerWorld) and there are issues with the 45 degree corners (see images). The only adjustment I’ve made to the filament profile so far is increased bed temp from 70 to 85. What else should I look at adjusting to solve the issue? All the other corners are coming out great, save for one layer on one of them.
I’m using Bambu PETG-Basic on textured plate. I have not dried the filament, as my dryer is still on the way.
If that’s the very thin 0.8mm thick version, it looks like the seam starts and stops from that corner. Nominal line thickness for 0.4 nozzle is 0.42, so unless you have arachne (variable line width) selected as your wall generator, it will try to print 2 x 0.42 lines, 0.84mm, which is 0.04mm wider than the model’s wall thickness.
Thank you. This is the 0.8mm version. What you’re saying makes sense, when considering that the nozzle would pass back and forth (two passes) along the ramp before going around the rest of the layer again. Admittedly a detail I probably should have mentioned in my first post.
I’ll give arachne a go and see what happens. I’d like to understand it a bit further though. Why is there only an issue along the ramp? Is it just the nature of the 45 degree that causes the printer issues on aligning the two 0.42mm passes? Whereas when the wall is straight vertical this isn’t an issue because all the passes are uniform, if that makes sense?
To be honest I’m not sure why it may be doing it only on the corner, except that is likely where the seam (assuming “aligned” setting) is starting and stopping again when switching from the inner to the outer wall, which often leaves a slight blip due to slightly over extruding.
I think, it makes no sense to tune the filament without drying it before. On the picture you can see 2 parts I made to test a 0.8 nozzle. The part on the right was printed with Sunlu PETG laying around for weeks in my basement. The part on the left side was printed after I had the PETG in the dryer for 8 hours. …huge difference in quality!
I have the same problem with Bambu Lab PETG with standard settings… I found 2 possible solutions… either reduce the print speed (which I do not want) or increase the temperature for everything except the first layer from 255°C to 270°C … sounds extreme but solved all my problems with the PETG. Looks like that the nozzle just is not able to complete melt the PETG with the given standard speed.
Please give it a try and give a short feedback here.
