Serious problem with PETG, either Prusament or Hatchbox, outlined below.
All of my filaments have lived their lives in a dry box with desiccant. These filaments print perfectly on my Prusa MK3S.
Bottom line with the X1C…nothing usable will print with either of these filaments. Using the Engineering Plate with glue and Generic PETG filament profile. The filament barely sticks to the plate. No print has successfully completed the first layer. There are strings, blobs, curling up from build plate, buildup on nozzle, spaghetti…did I forget anything else? Not sure? I have tried higher/lower nozzle/bed temperatures to no avail. I’m getting desperate and have had to bring my MK3S back on line in order to get some prints that I need. This is the wrong answer.
I use the PEI plate and bump the temps up to 230. Sticks like glue and is a nice print. For taller models I add a larger brim too. If you have not already done so print a temp tower, my guess is you are not printing it hot enough.
First let me thank Ajlarabie and codpilot for replying so quickly.
Regarding both replies referring to a PEI plate. As a new user, I only have the Cool/Engr plate and the Textured plate. I do not have the High Temp (PEI) plate. Neither of these replies mentioned use of glue, which Bambu says is required with the High Temp PEI plate. May I assume glue was used?
As far as temps go, I have tried nozzle temps from 230 to 260 and bed temps from 70 to 85.
In all cases, the prints fail sometime during the 1st layer.
I’m using the engineering plate with glue. I tried the Bambu PETG defaults and had no successful prints. Lots of stringing and blobs the few times it would stick the plate. I ran the calibrations in Orca-Slicer, and made a new filament profile. Every print since has been usable, if not perfect.
My nozzle temp is 260, bed is at 70, but it would be best to run your own calibrations.
Hot pei plate and default temps im getting amazing results. Its recommended to use glue but i dont and let me tell you that the first layer definitely adheres. I did some research before buying the x1c and heard others had good results with the hot plate, its all ive ever used becuase it always works
Ah, all I have is the PEI plate (I’m running a P1P). As for glue I do not use glue on this plate at all. Wash it with soap and water and occasionally wipe it down with IPA. Generally if objects aren’t sticking well I add brims as needed and switch from grid to gyroid for infill. This avoids the catching that can happen when the hot end crosses another grid line.
You may want to check and adjust first layer nozzle temps and fan profiles. I run my first couple of layers without fans and that also seemed to help.
Ikraus – my last failed attempt was nozzle temp 260 and bed 70 on engr plate with glue. I am unfamiliar with “running calibrations with…”, yet I’ve seen a number of posts where the user has said this, although a number of different tools are mentioned. Are nozzle and bed temp the only things you changed? If no, would you post the other changes so I can try them?
riordanmkevin – the hot pei plate sounds a lot like the satin pei plate that I use on my Prusa MK3S. I love that plate, only use glue with TPU prints. I think that I’ll try that plate before I put this X1C up for sale.
thanks for the input. the default Generic PETG profile on the X1C has the fans off for the first 3 layers. From my Prusa days, I’m used to no glue (expect TPU) and using brims to enhance bed sticking. Gyroid is my go-to infill pattern, I like it a lot. It gives me better top layers as well. For this PETG issue, though, I cant get past the 1st layer. See photo below.
I’ve begun running at least the first three tests for every filament I use. The temperature tower results made the biggest difference, though flow and pressure advance tests also made noticeable improvements. Using the calibrated settings also let me turn off the lidar flow calibration at the beginning of every print, saving material and several minutes each time.
I would run the pressure advance calibration in orca slicer. I had bed sticking problems on my P1P and blobs and stringing on additional layers. Overture grey PETG. I ran the pressure advance calibration, used it to set my pressure advance to 0.05. Took other people’s advice and set my nozzle temp at 270 and bed temp at 80. Textured PEI plate. That solved my problems. Hopefully it can help you.
PETG temp tower test. Everything is fine lol
Actually I’m sure this is my fault. When rereading this thread I realized I set the pressure advance to 0.4 instead of 0.04 I’m running another test now, probably will start at a higher temp for the tower since clearly 225C is the min temp.
Been printing long time. I never use glue on engineered plates. They need to be super clean for them to work. Clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol before every print.
Glue
@builder99, I never had such severe issues, yet initially, I had similar ones with PETG. So I am sharing my experience, that maybe can help you find and solve the problem:
Filament quality, dryness and cleanliness. I was surprised by how strict the X1C is with filament.
Many of my filaments, always stored in a vacuum, work flawlessly with Ender S1Pro, yet it was necessary to dry them to get good prints.
If your filament is dry, there shouldn’t be any issue.
Do you have any other PETG spools that you can try?
Be aware that, in my case, these tests outcome in an extruder and nozzle clog.
Plate. Is the Engineering plate new? If so, you can expect a significant improvement after a few days of use and cleaning.
Glue
*Before the X1C, I only used glue (regular one) to protect my PEI plates from ripping off with PTEG. So I had no experience, so I thought I was properly applying the glue until I forgot to do it after cleaning the plate. The print was perfect, with an excellent first layer, only harder to release.
Are you using BL glue?
This was only the first couple of days; since then, I never had any issues.
Everyone…I finally solved the PETG problems by using the engineering plate with glue and lowering the 1st layer nozzle temp by 10C. I’ll try it without glue today. As an FYI, the problem filament was 1) new out of the box, and 2) one kept in a dry box with desiccant. Both behaved in the same manner. Filament drier on order.
I only use PETG on both of my X1C units without a single issue. I haven’t tried printing something that covers the whole bed with a layer but have printed 20 different items that mostly cover the bed.
Hotend = 255C
Bed = 70C
Ambient Temp in the room is 20C
I’ve used Fiberlogy PETG and recently tried Geeetech PETG. Both brands have printed without issue. I decided to try Geeetech because it fits in the AMS and to my surprise it prints very well and is about 10euro cheaper per 1kg.
I have tried Prusa PETG but couldn’t get the results that I got from Fiberlogy.
I’m running another test now, probably will start at a higher temp for the tower since clearly 225C is the min temp.
