I so far have been using Bambu Lab filament and their slicer settings for the items I have printed.
I’m creating a case for a small microprocessor that I am using to track conditions inside my P1S.
I printed the basic shape yesterday. Bottom and 4 sides, no top. Printed fine
Today I printed the exact same box with one notable exception. I designed in an opening for the power connection. Because of that. I opted to use supports as the opening was relatively wide for the nozzle to bridge across. That significantly increased the print time and as a result the case warped at all 4 corners.
Curious what peoples thoughts are regarding that warping. I am probably going to just have the opening go to top so supports won’t be needed. I expect that will solve THIS instance but it is sure to be a problem in future prints so want to get a grip on the issue and remedies.
Could you post a screengrab of both the model in preview mode and sliced mode? It would help us better understand what’s going on.
If the model is taking longer but using less filament, it might be due to how the internal structure is being laid out, which could be causing the slicer to add more time-consuming structures. For example, I once printed a Raspberry Pi case from Printables that took much longer than expected. After reviewing the sliced file, I realized that a lot of time was being spent on printing inner walls because of an air grid on the top lid.
I later found a YouTube video showing a trick where you can create a grid using infill by setting the top and bottom layers to zero. This reduced my print time by over 50% and gave me a cleaner ventilation grid than the original design—definitely a win. Maybe something like this phenomena is going on in the slicing of your model.
Also, if you care to share the 3MF, upload it here. If you’d rather not share it with the group, you can always message me and send it one on one using the forum’s upload feature that works the same in a post as it does in a direct message albeit in a direct message, only you and I will see the upload.
I’ll send shortly. You triggered a thought and it is surprising to me is that the two worst corners are farthest from the opening on that axis.
First off, based on comments made on forum but not directed at me, my support material is PETG-HF since it has been recommended multiple times as support for PLA.
The basic 5 sided box prints in about 26 minutes per Bambu Slicer while the supported bridge print is about 2.5 hours.
One thing I did not really think of at the time is if it is making a temperature change each time it goes into and out of the PETG support portion of the print. As evidenced by the time difference, 2 hours are filament swapping.
This halloween orange not very photogenic.
I’ve attached the pictures but if you want to see slicer pics of with and without I will do those in the morning.
I have already made some mods to the case in OpenSCAP which are no big deal to hide by commenting out but I’ve had enough for today.
The long ais that my thumb is on in second picture are way worse than the long axxis on the side closest to the opening.
The box which is identical, absent the hole, is flawless.
The extra print time is because you are printing the entire support structure in a different material so the printer has to change and purge each layer for pretty much the entire model. IMHO the added print time isn’t worth it. The printer can easily bridge that gap without support material. The worst case is that you have to clean up a string or two with a knife.
The warping on the corners is most likely a dirty bed. Dish soap and hot water to the rescue.
There also might be some weird stuff going going on with your cooling, either part or aux fan because your printing with two materials. The extra cooling can cause the print to release and curl.
Basically, go back to printing just one material and clean your bed.
My bed was clean. I had just washed it.
You know what they say about assumptions?
Personally, although I did not see it (because I didn’t look) what I think the slicer did was to jack the bed temperature up and down every single layer and it warped the corners because they got too hot and curled.
PLA
As @JonRaymond mentioned, there’s not much point to print the entire support in PETG. You are likely fine without a support. If you want one regardless, I recommend using PETG for the Support interface only.
And I concur that bed temp changes may be reponsible for the defects you are seeing. You can however check the “support material” box in the PETG settings to see if this helps (nozzle temp needs to stay high but bed temp should stay as per PLA).
You can see 2 corners still square, that means it only started warping at the PETG support structure. When it goes higher, the bed pumps to 70C while PLA becomes soft at 60C. The shrink force on high layer now is too strong compare to very soft plastic at bottom near the bed.
You can make a new profile for PETG that has same bed temperature as PLA and use it for support. You can name it, “PETG support for PLA”
Anyhow, only use support/raft interface in different material while leaving support/raft base as default
That, while sliced, is the temperature profile. In the full picture the temperature scale is up above picture and the green is the PETG support.
If I were a betting person, I would bet the way it warped and the location of the worst warping (circles) there was a heating wire for bed (straight line) in close proximity. My admittedly limited experience with heat bed construction is that it is a high resistance wire that loops back and forth under a metal plate that soaks until plate is same temp across its entirety. If anything, I would have exxpected the worst warping to occur at the corner right next to the green colored PETG support
I printed the same exact shape, excepting the cut-out and it printed flawlessly. The way those two corners warped significantly more than the other two, I bet that wire is right by and parallel to the worst two corners. In regards to warping, that’s the first time I’ve encountered warping on the P1S
That’s not a bad theory. There is one way to find out. Rotate the model on your print bed by 45 degrees and also move it further back in the chamber if possible. If you get a different outcome then please share that here as this would be a worthwhile thing to note and the knowledge would benefit the community.
I just pulled the print off the bed. used the same PLA as support rather than the PETG and came off build plate pretty flawless.
Also, forgot to put sketch up which I just did.
My BambuLab P1S printer was working fine for 9 months. All a sudden I am getting all kinds of warping issues on corners and ends for print over 5 inch long. PLA, ABS all fail.Clean bed plate with dish soap and increase bed temperature can only help a few small part. Please help.
I’m pretty sure my problem was caused by using a material that required a hotter bed as a support material and it spent a significant amount of time at that higher temperature. Reason being each of those entailed a filament change and purge.
A little more theoretical was the corners that warped the worst may have been in close proximity to a heater wire in the bed.
Same part did not warp after I used the same material for both the support and the print.
