I see some other posts mentioning that PLA Matte can be too sticky on a cold plate.
I did my first print with PLA Matte using a o.2mm nozzle on a textured PEI plate HEATED with Bambu liquid glue stick applied. Although the parts themselves popped off ok, the thin brims around the parts were too pliable to pop off with bending and could not be removed… It appears to have ruined my plate: the PLA is now fused to the surface. I cannot remove it with a scraper blade without also removing the PEI layer. Rinsing away the exposed glue with hot water did nothing. I have not yet tried alcohol.
Yeah, both Bambu Matte and Bambu Silk are in my view, horrible filaments. I keep the rolls around for experimentation purposes but they are awful under any comparison.
Here is what I used that is head and shoulders above bambu at a fraction of the price. Unless you need their magical spools, I’d consider this as a much better solution.
Now if you’re really stuck for a solution. You can place a layer of Polymide(AKA Kapton) film over the build plate that may help. I used this stuff.
My question is why would you use glue with PLA Matte? On its own, PLA Matte adheres well to both the smooth and textured PEI plates and easily releases once cooled.
The use of glue serves two purposes. The first, which you already know, is to ensure that the model stays adhered to the build plate. The second, and sometimes counterintuitive, use is that the glue itself acts as a release liner between the model and the build plate, making it easier to remove the model, provided an even coating of glue is used.
Now I know what you’re probably thinking: which glue is best? While there are many opinions on this with little hard evidence to back them up, I can offer this answer: all paste glue sticks are made from the same recipes as those used in grade school. In fact, if you look carefully, you’ll notice that the tubes are also identical. So what’s the difference? Price! $3-7 per stick vs $1 per stick.
I find glue sticks to be an unnecessary mess. My Vyper never needed them and I have never used them on my Bambu printers. PLA matte, like all PLAs, sticks just fine on smooth and textured PEI plates without glue and easily releases once cooled. Same with PETG.
Maybe there was a time when glue was deemed necessary, but that time has passed.
I have to disagree with you. The best PLA matte filament is PolyTerra. Bambu Lab PLA matte may actually be made by PolyMaker as it is so similar as to be indistinguishable . Although the ever evolving PolyTerra selection is much larger than what Bambu offers.
While I very much like Overture products, I find their matte filaments to have too much of a silky feel which is quite noticeable compared to other matte filaments. PolyTerra and Bambu Lab PLA matte has a much nicer feel.
I have been buying Bambu Lab filaments at $13.99 a roll. 1 is not a fraction. It is a whole number, an integer. The “magic spools” make life considerably easier.
Silk filaments from all manufacturers tend to be weak and have printing issues. The secret is to use them to embellish one’s prints. They tend to print really well on top of other PLAs in multi-color prints. I have found the Bambu Lab PLA Silks to print cleanly and tend to have more of a shine to them than other brands.
You can use 3D pen and squeeze a blob of plastic on top of thin brim line. It will come off a lot easier.
Don’t try to do this. Sometime the filament debris stick too well and tough enough so that doing so you crash the hotend. Same for forget to remove finished print and just send new print.
One layer of brim isn’t going to “crash” your hotend. If it did it would bent a nozzle every time you print over a prime line or when you print crossing infill types. The nozzle you show most likely hit a part that had adhesion issues and warped up.
I am a matte filament king. For 6 months that’s all I printed with and I printed A LOT of matte black, white, grey. I have a Star Destroyer that’s 90% matte grey that’s 3ft long.
It’s like Franks hot sauce. I put that **** on everything. All my plates. I haven’t ever had it stick too good to need glue as a release agent. Even brims, which I wouldn’t use with glue anyway, release or not.
I would try heating it to as close to 100 as you’d wanna go for a few minutes and take a green scrubbing pad to it. Be careful, it’s hot (duh). Wash afterwards with soap and water, repeat if needed. You should see some progress.
Yeah, it’s true that one layer of filament isn’t high enough to do any damage. But my point is just make sure the plate is clean before starting a print.
Imagine your boss send you this picture on friday afternoon
and ask what happen
I am sure that he let his son started a print using bambu studio at home while printer was at work and that happenned.
Anyway, hairspay does the same thing but easier to apply. Use the extra hold one instead of regular hold. And it does help to release the part as well.
