Please more Nozzle Cleaning & better Park Position

Bambu Lab X1 Series Bambu Lab X1C
1

4 next FW-Update:
Please do more nozzle cleaning!

  • before bed leveling

  • after bed leveling

  • after heating up and start printing (heating up can be done over purge unit as well)

  • Please park the print head over cleaning box / purge unit when in idle mode (!) since it is dripping filament onto the plate now during cooling down (can be avoided).

Since now there are too often filament leftovers on the bed. This forces me to go to printer … but i love to sit at my notebook :slight_smile:

Nevertheless, a wonderful printer. Quality & Speed kicked me! And he looks sooo beautiful!
Love that baby.
Maybe a brighter LED as an optional order in you shop would help me as well.

(Experience on PLA + PETG from different manufacturers)

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6 Likes
2

That little strange. Mine X1 never drips any filament, on 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle (I dont try it on 0.8).
So (for me) nozzle cleaning is not nesesery now, and more nozzle cleaning is worst ;).
Mayby it should be configurable via Printer Settings Menu ?

3

Mine still drips (high temp PETG at 250 iwth 0.4nozz).
To have it optional, it would be perfect!

4

Mine drips straight out of the box. I thought it was weird, i paused it and used tweezers and a cloth to wipe it off. Also 100% agree that the led is rubbish. The print head led is far brighter than the enclosure led. Ah well il just buy some on amazon and chuck them in there.

5

They designed the LED strip to not interfere with the LIDAR. Slapping a bunch of random LEDs to make it all brighter (some have just removed the strip’s diffuser cover) could screw up the LIDAR.

Now, if you’re like many people who turn off spaghetti detection and 1st layer inspection, fine. But it still has to read the calibration target on the right edge and the plate detection on the front left.

The camera is also involved in all this.

If you get too bright it may screw all that up. :grin: It’s your printer, you want to hang Xmas lights and do Santa prints go for it. I just thought to mention some of their design thinking.
Cheers!

1 Like
6

Fair point, could one not just set the lights or switch the lights on after the first layer, my machine is within eyeshot most of the time and i think spag detection was off by default in mine anyway. As Im now working from home, id rather see whats going on from a distance than rely on the printers sensors anyway. But its too new for me to stuff around with yet. :wink:

7

I was just looking at mine and thinking I could use a lightstrip and put it just above the door inside. It wouldn’t be hard to have a switch on it.

Sure is dark in there with the standard LED …

You’re right, if you don’t use spaghetti detection after the 1st layer you’re good.
Mines normally off, I’d only use it if I was not going to be home or was doing a very large print.

LOL! I hear ya! Same, except I did fix my warped bed with alum tape.

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8

Oh how was the bed warped? I wonder if i should check mine as it always stuffs around going up and down towards the center of the plate on calibration.

9

There’s a very long thread on this, a number of people are finding the bed has a warp from left to right (usually fine front to rear). Others (the vast majority from what we’ve seen) have perfect beds.

From what had been discussed (I’ve been following and involved in this from the start of the reports), it seems BL had a problem with a batch of beds that snuck by QC. After much discussion, it seems to happen particularly with high bed temps (which makes sense).

I think they may have tested them with PLA and only ran up to max temp as a quick test, so they literally didn’t see it. It’s not normal practice to test each machine for hours in QC, too $$.

BL has acknowledged it and is working on it. It will take some time for them to finalize a fix (usually a bed replacement) as I and others suspect it’s a sub contractor that screwed them.

Personally, from my tests, the warp gets significantly worse when the bed it run for hours at max like for PC (polycarbonate) or other high temp prints. It’s postulated the plastic parts of the bed were not properly annealed when made. There may be other things too.

To check yours, look at this thread (warning, it’s long but there’s lots of pics, scroll and find them). You use a straight edge like a 12" metal ruler and a back light.

If you’re printing PLA and other low temp plastics it may take longer to show the warp, or more likely, your bed is perfect. Please be aware it’s relatively easy to fix with some inexpensive aluminum tape and a bit of your time. Mine is almost perfect now, and I’ll ask for a replacement bed when they get it figured out. They’re a pretty smart group of engineers.

Here’s the thread: Warped bed :( seems like a common QC issue - #353 by anasazi37

If you find yours is warped, read the whole thread. It has lots of help. I posted some tips all in bolded to help people find it (plus I like to shout from time to time, LOL)

10

wow, wasnt aware of this at all. I got thr machine to print in engineering materials. ie nylon, and poly carb. :pensive::neutral_face: will have to check.

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11

Well, don’t worry if you do have a problem. Many people didn’t even know the bed wasn’t level, LOL. The Auto Bed level is pretty good and if you do have a problem it’s pretty easily fixed. I do a lot of PC and am fond of PolyMax PC from Polymaker. Works great in this machine.
EDIT: Sentence awKwaRd

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12

Just wanting to post the fact that the LED used in the X1 is the right amount of might I say lumens so as to not interfere with the initial bed leveling sensors and the stringing monitoring that the unit does throughout the printing cycle. I bought an 8-in LED enclosed strip on Amazon that lays beautifully flat on its face in front of the AMS. It has three lights levels and I did a print to make wire holders that are available on printables and are quite nice that hold the wires down the side and then velcroed the switch up front by the door. It’s enough to turn on to check on things while running and changing out the plate. Hopefully this suggestion is helpful.

1 Like
13

I had this issue with cfpetg. It oozes from the nozzle at the temp I print it at & leaves a piece of filament somewhere in the first layer.

The solution for me was to lower nozzle temp in 5 degree increments until the oozing stopped & set first layer print temp to that temperature. I havent had the issue since.

14

i have almost always problems on first layer because a filament blob is on nozzle and wipe the whole first layer wholes in the print so PLEASE MORE NOZZLE WIPES in between first layer

15

Hello Fellow Burn Victims (LOL…that was a Joke). I love this product…and have nothing but praise. I am an Engineer, Software Developer, Welder, Fab Dude, etc… However, I would like to see a video on proper head cleaning from soup-to-nuts. For such an awesome product I find it odd that there are standard maintenance videos like this flooding Google. I can make a good guess, but would rather see the Do’s and Don’ts others have compiled from experience.

Also, this product is so good I am thinking about buying another A1 and just keep it in is box (unopened) like a psychopath :o)

Appreciate a shove in a good direction. TANKS