Trying to print the HEPA part of the bento box in PC, encountering some warping. Tried a massive brim, didn’t help. Is there any way to print this part in PC or am I going to have to switch back to ABS?
Engineering plate, glue applied, default PC settings, infill gyroid 15%, brim outer and inner 50mm
What layer height are you printing the first layer at?
The thicker the first layer, the stronger (and stiffer) the brim will be to hold down the part.
Here are some suggestions, that might help:
If you want to use that material on a regular basis, you might want to do only one change at a time and print out test pieces and do as few of changes at once as possible to find out about what results in the best effect
Thanks for the suggestions, the plan now is to try the following simplest adjustments tomorrow and see how it goes:
Couple of things to note:
The changes reduced warping substantially but didn’t eliminate it.
I have also tried, with no improvement:
I believe this exhausts all proposed solutions that don’t either weaken the part or require more money spending. Unless you’ve got any ideas, I will try one last print tomorrow with layer speeds all the way down to 80mm/s.
i had similar problems when i was printing a clone trooper helmet out of bambu labs pc, lets just say assembly has been challenging
Think about reducing the brim distance to object. For filament that warps a lot, I put 0 brim distance.
The other thing is that your brim is not useful if it is not adhering to the build plate enough. Do you have brim on the outside only, or inside as well? Apply brim on inside too if you aren’t already.
The only thing that You could try is to raise nozzle temp even further. That generally reduces stress in the extruded filament. That’s also why printing slower usually helps. When not melted sufficiently the plastic still contains stress when it’s layed down. I would probably try to see what happens when you max out the temerature to 300°C. Some PC filaments go up to 310°C.
Next thing I would try is to change the nozzle to a 0.6mm and raise first layer thickness to 0.4mm.
As previously suggested check the brim distance. It should be at 0mm. An inner brim only helps if your part doesn’t have a bottom. So, if not, then use that, as @ant proposed.
Warping oftentimes depends on the model itself. When the model doesn’t contain features that even out the stress, it suddently becomes harder to print. In this case the warping occurs because the walls are very flat and they pull the corners towards the center of each wall. I would check if there is any way to modify the model to get rid of the flat walls, unless it is really necessary. Vertical slots would reduce that or add some irregular features. These features don’t need to punch a hole into the wall.
If you have been using only gluestick so far, I would try something else like the woodglue+water mix.
I have reprinted at 80mm/s with brim set to outside+inside and 0 distance. The part is still warped.
Noxoreos, 300C would clog the nozzle I’d imagine? BL recommends up to 290C for this filament.
I’ll switch to ABS for now as the Bento box really needs to get built asap. The fumes are killing me 
Will consider purchasing a 0.6 nozzle, thermal insulation tape, as well as a garolite plate and something like visionminer’s nanopolymer adhesive. But this is turning into a project in itself, when the X1C is supposed to give a tinker-free printing experience. Unfortunate.
Are you saying the entire brim lifted off the bed?
No, the part warped and forced a bit of the brim off the bed. You can see an extreme case of what I mean in the first post. Most of the brim remains adhered to the bed.
I would still try what happens at 300°C because I’m stubborn (
) and unclogging the nozzle is very easy from my experience. If it does, just make sure the filament is not cut and perform a cold pull. I regularly do this anyway to make sure there is no burned plastic residue in the hotend.
If it was cut, heat it up, unscrew the hotend, turn the printer off and while it’s hot push the unmelted plastic back using the needle from below through the nozzle.
I’ve done both and had no problems with any of these methods.
Of course that’s your choice.
Did I understand correctly? The magnets that hold the cover and part cooling fan fell out? I’d be interested in what the chamber temperature is in that case. Because that might be a recurring issue when people print on hot summer days. I mean CA glue tends to become weak when heated up, but I’d think that would only occur at extreme temperatures. That’s why I think it’s not CA glue, would be interested to find out what kind of glue that is.
Maybe the liquid glue is too thin. you might want to try regular glue stick instead and apply a thicker coating. Maybe try a different print surface altogether or reduce the heatbed temperature, when it’s too hard to get it off the plate.
The main difference (I’m guessing) is our geometries. It’s not that I’ve not printed PC successfully on the X1c before, it’s just that I’m finding the HEPA component of the Bento box in particular very difficult to print without warp. Here’s a link to the STL if you wish to have a go at it.
Those wide walls explain why the warping forces are that high. If the outer shape isn’t that important, I see ways to reduce these forces in the model:
Good to know. I would probably try CA glue, because it should not melt below 150°C. But if you already got the new part then you might just change it and when this problem still occurs then you know it hasn’t changed.
Just a small note for the future. eSun’s ABS+ is a different formulation which doesn’t smell at all. Apparently Bambu’s own ABS also has no odour. Both those ABS filaments are also formulated to reduce warping which leads me to suspect that eSun makes Bambu’s filament.
The only reason not to use this ABS+ is if you want to vapour-smooth your prints with acetone. The changed formulation doesn’t allow this.
Just figured I’d mention that, since anyone who isn’t vapour-smoothing can save themselves the styrene headaches.
No thanks, I would like to print this myself. If you can share how you got it to work though that would be peachy. Can you confirm the part is completely flat?
What’s your chamber temp when starting? I can’t get mine hot enough without preheating the bed for 30-60min with a towel or blanket around the machine. This gets it to around 60C which has worked well for me.
Also I print with a bed temp of 115 and 285C nozzle for PolyLite PC. It’s a bit out of spec but after calibrating it in OrcaSlicer these settings worked best, along with the 0.8mm nozzle.
Interesting. I had someone else try this model on a Lightyear 3d garolite plate with lameneer adhesive. The part warped and damaged the plate due to the strong adhesion. Both BL plate and Lightyear are made from spring steel of the same thickness as far as I know. So this is certainly strange. I’ll get my hands on the liquid glue and try this. Is it the engineering plate you’re using?
My bed temp is limited to 110C because BL suck - yes I’m very salty about this
