POM or Delrin filament on X1C

I have been requested to print mechanical sprockets using Delrin or POM filament. Everything I’ve seen online points to the absolute pain it is to print this stuff. Supposedly its near impossible to achieve bed adhesion, and once you do then it’s still difficult to print this stuff and you have to go very slow.

Does anyone have experience printing this filament in ANY FDM printer?

A better question would be, does anyone have experience printing this filament in their X1C?

I am hoping for good adhesion, but it will be a bit before I get the chance to post my experience here. My thoughts are as follows:
Nozzle temp at 210C to 220C
Engineering plate at 120C with no gluestick or any adhesive
Doors and top lid closed (possibly even electrical tape covering the gaps on the front door)
Duct printed for the chamber fan and a hose that goes to a vent out a window (I heard heating POM to 230C can release VOCs like formaldehyde)
Speed for everything cut to between 30 and 50 mm/s
Avoid geometries that require support

Please let me know your thoughts and experiences.

My recommendation is to not bother trying on the X1 series.

I’ve printed with it, and got a reasonable looking Benchy, but fundamentally the chamber does not go hot enough to enable you to print dimensionally accurate parts without any warping.

My best results were as follows:
Gluestick coated printer paper, stuck to the engineering plate with gluestick as a printing surface (you get one hot-cold cycle before you have to re-do this so it’s certainly not ideal). Engineering plate with no glue with give you no adhesion.
120C bed (which in my case required some fudging as I’m in europe).
60+C chamber, thoroughly pre-heated, and insulated to ensure it’s not going to drop during printing.
Chamber fan off (which in my case was using an old firmware so it doesn’t turn on automatically at higher temps)
Settings something like this:

POM benchy on left (note the significant warping away from the bed, the issues on the bow, and the cooling issues on the chimney), standard PLA benchy on the right.

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Thank you so much for your thorough response! This is very helpful. I bought a 250g roll as a test so I may just let them know it’s not viable depending on my results. Did you print anything as a functional part from POM?

One more question, with the glue, paper, glue, giving you one heat cycle, did you need to do anything special to clean the plate between prints? I imagine i will need to scrape the paper off then wash with Dawn and clean with isopropyl alcohol after before reapplying everything.

consider making dovetailed inserts in the part.

POM is a hell of a filament, I resolved in many cases doing that instead.

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How did it go for you @GenghisJohn ? I’m looking to make some parts out of POM myself.

Piggybacking off your original question - is there other suitable alternatives that are ‘doable’ in the X1C?

Thanks!

Hey John,
I am also looking to print some delrin parts on an X1C, were you successful? If so what were the settings? I am very interested to hear any advice that you have.
Thanks

I decided that POM was going to be too involved to print for my needs. I found where others had success by gluing card stock to their print bed, then printing on top of that. Then after every print they would need to scrape the paper off both the print bed and the part. When it is necessary, that would work, but otherwise I would rather just use my 200mg for filament hinges instead. Just make interlocking hinges with holes around 1.85mm and push the POM filament in and cap the ends. That would give a nice smooth action hinge but no printing involved.

There are alternatives to POM with similar properties that I’ve seen sold in Germany, but they are expensive and my need to print a bushing was not that high.

This is supposed to be easier to print but similar properties. Around $100 a kg but in 750 g rolls.

I’ve printed with POM a bunch of times, up to 150mm in diameter. My comments:

POM only sticks to one type of print bed. G10/Garrolite/Printbite. Which ultimately is epoxy resin ie Bisphenols. Bisphenols and acetals can combine chemically which is why POM sticks to garrolite. Same with PC filament. I use a garrolite bed for PC and POM. The trick is to clean the surface with acetone, and then evenly scrub the surface with a fine abrasive to increase bonding area. I use the rougher side of a foam manicure stick. Then wipe clean again.

Print hot. Yes, if you burn it, it will release formaldehydes. At print temperatures release concentrations are minimal. Ventilate as you would ABS/ASA.

I run the bed 110C and nozzle 260C first layer and 250-255C for others. I set max volumetric at 7mm3 but run all speeds the same as a generic PA/PC profile and let the printer take care of the rest.

Oh and dry the filament as much as you can. I run a cheap food dehydrator at 70C.

It shrinks about the same as raw PA, which is a lot.

If you get a decent print, it’s the strongest, toughest, best layer adhesion material you can print with. Not hugely ridgid, but super strong. Pain to print.

My go to is PC/PBT which is easier to print (marginally), more ridgidity, but has excellent flow which means you can print fast. As fast as PLA.

I’ve been thinking about a G10 (etc) bed for a while. Are you using a commercial option, or just a piece of material? Magnetic or clipped on? I assume you’re happy with what you’re using?

I’m currently using a spring steel plate with a G11 print bed from Evashape (closed down unfortunately) straight onto the factory magnetic pad. They use a thicker spring steel plate than OEM and together with the stiffness of the G11, it stays pretty flat and has a much stronger magnetic hold than OEM. Total thickness is around 4mmish with the G11 sheet around 3mm of that.

Happy enough with the G11 print bed as I mostly print PC-PBT from Polymaker these days.

The best let’s call it ‘epoxy resin print bed’ I’ve used is a product called Printbite Plus made by a company that made a custom extruder call FlexDrive. I don’t think they’re around anymore either. I managed to get a large 500mmx500mm sheet of it a couple of years back and even that took months to get.

3D Printer Gear still have some sheets of it for Ultimaker and FF CP2 already mounted on a spring steel plate if you want to try it.

Actually some of the best prints in POM I’ve had were with my trusty FF CP2. All temps were cranked to the max and the max speed was slow by today’s standards, but it cranked out super strong and tough parts albeit only 50mm in diameter. It seemed to hit the sweet spot of part size, passive heating volume and print speed to get great prints.
I wanted to print custom handles for various projects using M12 batteries and POM worked great. Batteries slide in nicely and threads are smooth and strong. I can crush it in a vice until the sides touch each other without the layers separating. Strong stuff.

Up to 50mm you’ll be ok with a passive enclosed chamber like the X1C.
Up to 100mm you’ll need active heating which is why I bought the X1E. (My X1C got stolen)
Any larger than that, you’re into chambers temps of things like the Method from MakerBot and the like.

Having said all that, the shrinking and warping with POM is so high it really isn’t a material that can be functionally used for anything of size or mm dimensional accuracy in prosumer printers.
As mentioned, I’ve mostly moved on from POM and I use PC-PBT as my engineering filament of choice.

Real world use:
I had to have a double ankle surgery and I didn’t want to be stuck in a cast for 6 weeks and deal with all the annoyances that causes.
So I scanned, modelled and printed my own custom AFO casts, took them with me to the hospital and the surgeon put me in them after the surgery.
Meant I could walk around, take them off to shower, clean them etc etc. At 5mm overall thickness 100% wall loop infill, they’re unbreakable with bare hands.

If you do end up making your own plates, use 3M 467MP adhesive sheets as the bonding material. That’s the stuff used commercially and the correct thickness too.

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Awesome, thanks for the input.

I think I remember the FlexDrive extruder. If it’s the one I’m thinking of, it was basically a flex shaft that went to a worm gear driven extruder. I almost bought one to go sort of semi-direct drive on a large delta machine (Anycubic Predator) but I never got back to it.

POM is a pretty impressive material in general. It machines really well, so I imagine if someone were really worried about a dimension or two, it wouldn’t be hard to add in a subtractive operation if one had the correct tools. Not ideal to have to move to another machine, but options are options.

Nice work on the cast. Very cool, creating alternatives for yourself.