Anyone tried POM with H2D?
I have 1kg that I will try out with a CFX plate + Magigoo PPGF.
Never tried it but it looks like a nightmare. I’m assuming you mostly want POM for the lubricity?
That’s one quality I really appreciate. For now, though, it’s purely experimental — and definitely a fun challenge!
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i am also interested in this, but i doubt that the 120 degree bed temperature will be enough for pom. i would also be interested in information about successful prints with the h2d…
As soon as I have the glue and filament I will let you know
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I’ve had some time to experiment with POM.
Setup
- Printer: H2D
- Build plate: Darkmoon CFX
- Adhesive: Magigoo Supergrip
- Chamber temp: 65°C
This spool (and likely other POM) is extremely temperature-sensitive and prone to warping, so I ran extensive tests.
Findings
- The build plate must be at 120 °C and soaked for at least 10 minutes to get reliable first-layer adhesion.
- I run layers with the first layer at 240 °C and subsequent layers at 225 °C. This maintains strong layer bonding and helps minimize in-print warping.
- To eliminate post-print warping and keep parts perfectly flat, I use a step-down bed cooling sequence after completion. My latest test is a bit extreme, but it does produce a flat surface with no warp.
- I use a 25 mm brim. It could probably be smaller, but I prioritize a warp-free, strong part over skipping brim/glue.
Post-print G-code (placed in the filament “end G-code” section)
Note: this is an aggressive cool-down schedule. It can likely be shortened, but again, the priority here is a strong, warp-free result.
; === POM (H2D) — AMS unload first, shut down BOTH hotends, then controlled cool-down ===
M400 ; wait for buffered moves to finish
; --- AMS: pull back filament to AMS (runs only if AMS is present) ---
M620 S65535
T65535
G150.2
M621 S65535
M620 S65279
T65279
G150.2
M621 S65279
G150.3 ; end AMS operation
; --- HOTENDS OFF IMMEDIATELY AFTER UNLOAD (both tools) ---
M104 T0 S0 ; Tool 0 (left) OFF
M104 T1 S0 ; Tool 1 (right) OFF (ignored if not present)
; --- (Fallback if you run without AMS: uncomment if needed) ---
; M104 S230
; M109 S230
; M702 ; unload
; M104 T0 S0
; M104 T1 S0
; --- Turn off cooling fans so the chamber stays warm from the bed ---
M107 ; part-cooling fan OFF
M106 P1 S0 ; aux/exhaust OFF (ignored if not supported)
M106 P2 S0
; --- Coarse steps: 120→110→100→90 (10 min each) ---
M140 S120
M190 S120
G4 S600
M140 S110
M190 S110
G4 S600
M140 S100
M190 S100
G4 S600
M140 S90
M190 S90
G4 S600
; --- Plateau and fine steps through the “pop band” (80→55) ---
M140 S80
M190 S80
G4 S600 ; 10 min
M140 S75
M190 S75
G4 S900 ; 15 min
; slow zone around your release temperature ~67°C
M140 S72
M190 S72
G4 S1200 ; 20 min
M140 S70
M190 S70
G4 S1500 ; 25 min
M140 S68
M190 S68
G4 S1500 ; 25 min
M140 S66
M190 S66
G4 S1200 ; 20 min
M140 S64
M190 S64
G4 S1200 ; 20 min
M140 S62
M190 S62
G4 S900 ; 15 min
; safe release temperature
M140 S60
M190 S60
G4 S1800 ; 30 min hold
M140 S55
M190 S55
G4 S900 ; 15 min (remove part at ≤55–60 °C)
; --- End (optional) ---
; M300 S440 P800
; M117 POM cool-down complete — remove part @ ≤55–60 °C
; M140 S0 ; (if you want to turn the bed off after removal)
; M84 ; (optional) release motors
; === END ===
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Is there any benefit to printing POM. From an engineering point of view POM is very similar to PLA.
- Tougher in heat: POM keeps its shape around ~100 °C; PLA softens ~60 °C.
- Slippery & durable: Great for gears, bushings, and sliding parts; low wear and low friction.
- Holds up under stress: Better against fatigue and long-term creep.
- Handles chemicals: Fine with oils, fuels, and many solvents; PLA doesn’t like those.
Gotchas: Harder to print (warps), needs an enclosure, and don’t overheat it (fumes).
Bottom line: POM isn’t “like PLA.” It’s for moving, load-bearing parts; PLA is for easy, stiff, general prints.
I read some article about POM emitting very unhealthy chemicals when printing.
Please keep that in mind!
Polyoxymethylene (POM) is stable within its recommended extrusion window; thermal decomposition scales with temperature and residence time. In my runs, on-printer measurements have shown no detectable VOCs; as an added safeguard I’ve integrated ~300 g of activated carbon into the filtration path.
If POM is overheated—typically above ~260 °C or with prolonged dwell—it can depolymerize to formaldehyde, which is hazardous. More broadly, the belief that “safe” filaments (e.g., PLA, PETG) emit nothing is incorrect: they release ultrafine particles (UFPs) and VOCs during printing. Passive enclosures or DIY “tents” without active extraction/filtration provide false reassurance; effective mitigation requires active filtration—HEPA (or equivalent) for particles plus activated carbon for VOCs.
A colleague’s spouse is likely running the first national study here focused specifically on emissions from consumer 3D printers. Preliminary findings indicate that all common filaments emit substantial particles and VOCs, and that home-built tents without active exhaust/filtration do not reduce exposure effectively. While similar emission studies have been conducted in industrial settings for years, to my knowledge they have not previously targeted home or hobbyist 3D printing.
For balance, you may wish to consult skeptical forum voices who disagree with my conclusions; they will likely present alternative viewpoints and data.
Finally, a warning on conduct: some forum elements may attempt to publish my private address or otherwise solicit accurate contact details with the intent to harass. There have even been instances where my 14-year-old daughter received death threats—this is beyond unacceptable. Do not disclose personal contact information. If you encounter doxxing, threats, or calls for violence, report them immediately to the forum moderators and, where appropriate, to local law enforcement.
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Clearly you did all the research that is needed, and already taken precautions against it.
I am happy to see you are fully prepared.
You’re right—when potential health risks are involved, risk communication favors redundancy over assumption. Better to repeat a safety reminder than presume everyone already knows—no one ever got hurt by an extra caution.
Any chance you could share your full filament settings you used (e.g. shrinkage/ volumetric speed etc.)?
I did an experiment once where I sprinkled some IPA onto a build plate and then observed as I printed a large flat object in PLA. At the exact places where I had sprinkled the IPA, the filament curled away from the build plate while sticking just fine to the areas of the build plate where no IPA had been applied.
I can but they are not tuned for benchys 
Can share the one I used to print some mechanical stuff when I get home to my printer
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I work with CNC machines and there are some parts that I can’t make just by injecting or printing, but the problem is that it needs to be POM with 100% filling, I’m having difficulty getting the result with the simple printers I have, I’m studying buying an H2D to print this material but I haven’t seen anyone who has managed it yet, could we talk about your tests?
If you can gradually cool down your build plate, you might achieve some nicely printed, warp-free parts. However, it’s generally a real pain to print — adhesion is poor. My latest success was with Magigoo Supergrip and a bed temperature of 120 °C, which I cooled down in stages to 60 °C after printing, while keeping the chamber temperature steady at 60 °C during the process.
Delrin has long been perhaps my favorite engineering plastic. It is relatively strong, machines well, and is dimensionally stable. I always keep some on hand for making prototypes and other things. Being the difficulty that people have trying to 3D print POM, would it not be easier to just machine a bar of Delrin (POM)?
I’d rather throw a chunk of Delrin in my CNC mill than print it—much healthier for the nerves 