I keep having fluctuations in the adhesion of the prints. Now on the Cool Plate. It went quite well over a few prints. Now the printer is starting to press PLA so hard onto the printing plate again that I can hardly get it off. Is the lidar to blame?
Thanks for any suggestions!
Clean the lidar with IPA and a microfiber, see if that helps
Did you update your printer recently? Also, did you already try re-running the initial calibration? I have had several strange issues fixed by running a new calibration process.
Yes, I had recalibrated. Didn’t help. Lidar is not responsible for levelling, is it? Isn’t that what the pressure sensors / force sensors are for?
After the manual bed alignment, it was fine for some time. As far as I’ve read, manual alignment doesn’t have to be done all the time.
Last time, the contact pressure was also a bit too high. I then switched the printer off for a longer period of time. After that it was fine again.
The leveling is done with a magnetic pressure switches under the bed, do you not know how the machine works?
The LiDAR reads the topographic data from the purge lines ONLY, it has 0 other function.
You said adhesion issues not that you FUBARed something on a plate
Have now tried everything. The printer slams the filament onto the Cool Plate as if I had switched on the “permanently connect to printing plate” function 
And to answer the question: no, I don’t know in detail how the printer works. I also don’t know the communication protocols and other internal specifications. But if someone knows about it, it’s probably very easy to answer where the problem is?
Many thanks!
The only other thing I can suggest is a reset to factory settings. Using the screen, use the hex icon, General tab, Restore factory settings. Any stored calibrations will be lost and you will be prompted to calibrate the printer again.
I want to print the laminating aid and have changed to the engineering plate as a precaution. There again the pressure does not hold, it warps without end. What came out was a bowl and at some point it tore the print from the plate, the printer now stood with spaghetti discovery.
You did not mention that after you changed to engineering plate thay you did a full calibration. When i change build plates, I reslice the stl. Then when clicking print plate I choose bed level and flow dynamics calibration before printing.
For me when I swap engineering plate for high temperature plate or the other way around i will do bed level and flow dynamics calibration everytime. I never use the cool plate.
I use filaments ABS or PLA. All printer and filament presets are OEM.
So at least everything is set.
And this is the result:
However, the part has been waved / crooked now printed after I applied bonding agent. I think the AUX fan was on. After printing I looked in the Bambu slicer and the AUX fan was on.
I have not checked all the test prints from the X1C memory beforehand. The ones I did (dinosaur, turtle, for example) worked, even if not perfectly. But these were small objects.
The difference between the Cool Plate and the Enginerring Plate is the sticker on the Cool Plate. I read in the forum that it is about 0.3mm thick. This would explain the difference that on the Cool Plate the filament is pressed too tightly and on the Engineering Plate it is basically perfectly fine. Even though I need adhesives on the Engineering Plate. But the prints must also be able to come off.
But again the problem: I did the last prints on the Cool Plate and they were actually OK in the contact pressure on the Cool Plate. It was even so good that the prints came off easily. Little by little it got worse and now it doesn’t work at all because the prints are pressed on too tightly.
The only thing that occurred to me is that the outside temperatures are currently moving towards cold. The printer is indoors (livingroom), but the outside temperature is also changing for it.
I reset the printer to factory settings, re-registered it on the network and ran a calibration / self-test. It aborted the test during bed levelling with an error message. I then went to the printer and acknowledged the message. I was then able to restart the calibration, whatever that means, because it then still did the frequency test for the X-Y mechanics. However, it moved the print bed too far up, against the nozzle and rattled there for a few seconds. After the test, the printer said it was finished. I did not find any messages that still indicated a problem.
Now I have started the self-test again. It has now completed the self-test without a problem.
However, after printing a small test object again, the problem is still there. It doesn’t seem to be as pronounced, but the contact pressure of the filament on the Cool Plate is still so high that I can’t get everything cleanly off. This small difference seems normal to me, however, as there have always been small deviations over time. So the nozzle is still too close.
Ok, since I don’t have time to mess with it any longer, I’ll go back to using the Engineering Plate now. Apparently my X1C has fewer problems with it. I can’t always spend so much time on the printer’s problems. I want to keep the printer busy so that it prints something, not the printer me.
The problem is not solved.
The Cool surface and the Engineering surface are two sides of one plate. The height of the plate does not change when you turn it over. If the coatings are different thicknesses, the height of the metal sheet above the bed may change slightly, but the printing surface should be the same height above the bed.
Although you seem to have better results with the Engineering plate, Bambu does not recommend it for PLA. Their recommendation for PLA with that plate would be the Cool surface with glue:
The plate type should not affect the pressure applied by the leveling sensors, and PLA is not known for the severe warping I see in your picture.
When you are ready to work on the problem again, I suggest that you submit a ticket and work with Bambu. They can examine the print logs and see what is happening.
Ich fürchte, dass das Problem auf diese Weise nicht gelöst werden kann. Es sei denn, Bambulab war magisch und konnte zaubern. Aber leider kochen sie auch nur mit Wasser.
Nach mehreren Versuchen, großflächige Drucke zu erstellen, bemerke ich die Verwerfungen immer mehr. Je mehr ich versuche oder untersuche, desto mehr fällt mir auf. Ich habe auch viel im Forum gelesen, vor allem im Zusammenhang mit schiefen Druckbetten.
Das erste, was mir immer auffällt, sind die gedrückten Außenrandlinien, die der Drucker am Anfang druckt. Darin sehe ich aber nichts Besonderes, denn es könnte ja sein, dass dies im G-Code so hinterlegt ist, dass die Düse hier etwas näher an das Druckbett heranfährt. Was auch immer der Grund sein mag, der Drucker macht das alles automatisch und darauf sollte man bei einem so hochpreisigen Gerät vertrauen können.
Gestern habe ich ein Modell von BambuLab heruntergeladen, um es von MakerWorld aus zu drucken. Die Grundplatte des Weihnachtshauses ist ziemlich groß, was mich nachdenklich gestimmt hat. Aber eine gute Gelegenheit, um zu sehen, ob es sich biegen würde. Heute Morgen war ich zufrieden, denn der Druck konnte die ganze Nacht abkühlen und auf den ersten Blick wurde das Teil zumindest ordentlich gedruckt. Ich nahm die Druckplatte zusammen mit dem Druck heraus und legte sie auf den Tisch, versuchte, sie wie einen Kreisel zu drehen. Und es dreht sich perfekt. Ich brauche also nicht viel zu experimentieren, der Druck wird mitsamt der Platte von den Rändern her hochgezogen. Dann habe ich die Druckplatte vom Druck getrennt, was an den Rändern sehr einfach war und zur Mitte hin nicht so einfach.
Dann habe ich eine 3D-Drucker-Glasplatte unter die Druckplatte gelegt, d. h. zwischen Heizbett und Druckplatte. Ich habe das Heizbett auf 70°C aufgeheizt. Dann habe ich geschaut und gesehen, dass sich die Druckplatte, also die Metallplatte (Konstruktionsplatte), nach oben gewölbt hat, das kann man also deutlich sehen. Auch nachdem ich die Druckplatte herausgezogen hatte, konnte ich in den nächsten Sekunden sehen, dass sich die Druckplatte entspannte und wieder gerader wurde. Also, wenn sich die Druckplatte in eine Richtung wölbt, dachte ich, dann setze ich sie eben andersherum auf. Wenn das Heizbett auch eine Wölbung nach unten haben sollte, wie man es oft auf Bildern im Forum sieht, dann könnten sich die beiden Wölbungen ausgleichen und eine gerade Druckunterlage erzeugen. Ich habe das ausprobiert und musste enttäuscht feststellen, dass sich die Druckplatte mit dem Wärmefluss wölbt. Es tritt also wieder die gleiche Krümmung nach oben auf.
Das alles erklärt jedoch nicht unbedingt, warum der Anpressdruck des Filaments auf der Cool Plate höher ist als auf der Engineering Plate.
Ich habe einen weiteren Druckversuch mit einer heißen Druckplatte unternommen und wieder in der ersten Schicht angehalten, um nicht unnötig Material zu verschwenden. Hier ist das Ergebnis.
Was man auf diesem Bild nicht sehen kann, ist der Materialverzug an den Außenkanten, wo sich die Druckplatte am stärksten wölbt. Dort drückt sie das Material in verschiedene Richtungen weg, weil die Düse zu nahe an der Druckplatte ist.
Was bleibt, ist, das Druckbett nicht zu erhitzen und einen Haftvermittler zu verwenden, wenn es ein Haftungsproblem gibt. Aber es ist ein Problem, weil das Filament heiß aus der Düse kommt, mit über 200°C. Das verformt die Druckplatte irgendwann wieder, je mehr sie sich durch das aufliegende Material erwärmt. Um dem entgegenzuwirken, kann der Druck nur gekühlt werden. Möglichst eine möglichst kühle Kammer und ein Ventilator, der die Schichten auf der Druckplatte sofort abkühlt. Das Material bliebe aber noch, wenn es sich durch die Maßnahmen verformt. Ich denke, es müsste ein Material sein, das bei mäßig niedrigen Temperaturen so weich wird / ist / bleibt, dass es die Druckplatte nicht mechanisch nach oben verformen kann. Ich weiß, dass es diese Konstellation gibt, aber sie gefällt mir auf Dauer nicht, weil man so nicht alles drucken kann, gerade im technischen Bereich. Trotzdem will ich sie noch einmal auflisten, damit der Leser weiß, was ich vorhabe. Bambulab Druckmaterialien (z.B. Bambulab Basic PLA), vielleicht sogar ein offener Drucker, Cool Plate sehr niedrig oder gar nicht beheizt, AUX Hilfslüfter an beim Drucken, Glue Stick bei Klebeproblemen.
Das ist zwar noch nicht zufriedenstellend, aber es beantwortet meine Frage ausreichend. Der Titel des Themas ist der Tatsache geschuldet, dass mir zunächst nicht klar war, wo das Problem liegen könnte. Warum das Druckgut nun fester auf die Cool Plate, also den Aufkleber auf der Engineering Plate, gedruckt wird und der Düsenabstand scheinbar kleiner wird oder ist, weiß ich im Moment noch nicht. Bemerkenswert ist jedoch, dass mit dem neuen Drucker zwei neue Cool Plate Aufkleber mitgeliefert werden, aber nur eine Engineering Plate.
Damit ist das von mir aufgemachte Thema erledigt. Auch wenn die gefunden Probleme bleiben.
Nachtrag:
Ich habe die Druckplatte gegen eine Neue ausgetauscht und die Cool Plate verwendet. Das Warping-Problem ist auch hier genau so da. Doch jetzt gibt es ein ABER! Aber: das heftige Plattdrücken des Filaments auf die Cool Plate ist weg. Diese ist ja nun absolut neu und der Aufkleber hat keinerlei Spuren von vorherigen Drucken. Zugleich habe ich aber Glue Stick aufgebracht. Noch vor der ersten Benutzung. Der Druck lässt sich lösen, wie man es erwartet hätte.
Noch einen schönen Tag!
I fear that the problem cannot be solved in this way. Unless Bambulab was magical and could do magic. But unfortunately they also only boil with water.
After several attempts to make large-scale prints, I notice the warping more and more. The more I try or examine, the more I notice. I have also read a lot on the forum, especially in relation to skewed print beds.
The first thing I always notice are the pressed outer margin lines that the printer prints at the beginning. But I don’t see anything special in this, because it could be that this is stored in the G-code in such a way that the nozzle moves a little closer to the print bed here. Whatever the reason, the printer does all this automatically and you should be able to rely on that with such a high-priced machine.
Yesterday I downloaded a model from BambuLab to print from MakerWorld. The base plate of the Christmas house is quite large, which got me thinking. But a good opportunity to see if it would bend. This morning I was pleased as the print was allowed to cool all night and at first glance at least the piece printed neatly. I took out the printing plate together with the print and put it on the table, tried to spin it like a top. And it spins perfectly. So I don’t need to experiment much, the print is pulled up from the edges together with the plate. Then I separated the printing plate from the print, which was very easy at the edges and not so easy towards the middle.
Then I placed a 3D printer glass plate under the printing plate, i.e. between the heating bed and the printing plate. I heated the heating bed to 70°C. Then I looked and saw that the printing plate, i.e. the metal plate (construction plate), had curved upwards, so you can see that clearly. Also after I pulled the pressure plate out, I could see in the next few seconds that the pressure plate relaxed and became straighter again. So, if the pressure plate curves in one direction, I thought, I’ll just put it on the other way. If the heating bed should also have a downward bulge, as you often see in pictures on the forum, then the two bulges could balance each other out and create a straight pressure pad. I tried this and was disappointed to find that the pressure plate bulges with the heat flow. So the same upward curvature occurs again.
However, all this does not necessarily explain why the contact pressure of the filament on the Cool Plate is higher than on the Engineering Plate.
I made another printing attempt with a hot printing plate and stopped again in the first layer in order not to waste material unnecessarily. Here is the result.
What you can’t see in this picture is the material distortion at the outer edges, where the pressure plate curves the most. There it pushes the material away in different directions because the nozzle is too close to the printing plate.
What remains is not to heat the print bed and to use an adhesion promoter if there is an adhesion problem. But it’s a problem because the filament comes out of the nozzle hot, at over 200°C. This eventually deforms the printing plate again, the more it heats up due to the material on it. To counteract this, the print can only be cooled. If possible, a chamber that is as cool as possible and a fan that cools the layers on the printing plate immediately. The material would still remain, however, if it were deformed by the measures. I think it would have to be a material that becomes / is / remains soft enough at moderately low temperatures that it cannot mechanically deform the printing plate upwards. I know that this constellation exists, but I don’t like it in the long run because you can’t print everything that way, especially in the technical field. Nevertheless, I want to list them again so that the reader knows what I have in mind. Bambulab printing materials (e.g. Bambulab Basic PLA), maybe even an open printer, Cool Plate heated very low or not at all, AUX auxiliary fan on when printing, Glue Stick for gluing problems.
This is still not satisfactory, but it answers my question sufficiently. The title of the topic is due to the fact that at first it was not clear to me where the problem could lie. Why the printed material is now printed more firmly on the Cool Plate, i.e. the sticker on the Engineering Plate, and why the nozzle distance seems to be or becomes smaller, I do not know at the moment. However, it is remarkable that two new Cool Plate stickers are supplied with the new printer, but only one Engineering Plate.
This settles the issue I raised. Even if the problems I found remain.
Addendum:
I replaced the pressure plate with a new one and used the Cool Plate. The warping problem is also here just as there. But now there is a BUT! But: the violent flattening of the filament on the Cool Plate is gone. This is now absolutely new and the sticker has no traces from previous prints. But at the same time I applied Glue Stick. Even before the first use. The print can be released, as one would have expected.
Have a nice day!
Only for people that arent sure what the dual bed leveling is.
" The X1 uses a sophisticated dual-bed leveling system that makes use of two different sensors as well as an algorithm in order to nail the bed leveling . The first sensor is a lidar. According to Bambu Lab, it probes the nozzle height, assists with the first layer, and calibrates the flow of filament too."
