I am getting what looks like under extrusion or some type of resonance all of a sudden. I am using 3kg roll of ASA on a P1S. I have been printing this same model with the same filament (normally a 1kg roll now I am using 3kg) and settings for months now no issue until now. Temps have dropped a lot in central Texas and I am printing in my garage due to ASA fumes. Could it be the temps causing this?
I have done a full maintenance on the machine to make sure it wasn’t anything related to that but I still get the issue. Please help on next
steps.
Temperature is going to have an effect on mechanical resonances. It’ll effect the lubrication (what little there is of it) in bearings and jack screws. It’s also going to make the hot end work harder to keep the filament hot (which it might not be able to do as well as when the ambient temp is higher). And once extruded, the filament is going to cool off much faster. And unless they’re “thermally compensated”, some of the electronics the printer uses may not be calibrated for very low temperatures.
Any/all these things can have an effect on the quality of the print.
Move the printer indoors and vent it. Or get a small space heater and put it and the printer under a big cardboard box.
I run my X1C indoors, so I don’t have any direct experience to offer. But warping happens when the print cools off unevenly/too fast. Anything you can do to keep the print cooling off too fast will help.
I have my P1S in my outside workshop. When I don’t have the heating on, the first 2-3 prints in the morning (room temp 45-50 degrees F) always throw the poop onto the plate. After the printer/room warm up a bit, all is good. If I leave the heating on overnight set at 60 degrees F the printer performs perfectly.
I will say OP I too am having recent and persistent problems printing lately. Despite the room temperature +/- 5F from what it “normally” ran at, a LOT of my prints have all of a sudden been failing, especially on upper levels. I tried the space heater thing whne I 1st suspected it, but it just made the temp more unstable. I ended up just cracking open the front door (especially on ABS prints) and it seems to at least get the print the entire way thru the job.
Most of them look like ■■■■, and I’ve throw out more filament in the last 3 weeks than I have in the past 5 months of owning the printer. You could try to relocate the printer to a better insulated room, but in my experience, directly attempting to control the room temp with spot AC/H just makes the prints more unstable.
I saw some spacers for the top lid that I was going to try next but with an AMS on top, might not be able to.
Maybe wrap an expendable blanket around enclosure. metal and plastic shell of enclosure is going to radiate heat all the time but winter worse of course. If it shows signs of improvement you might go to Lowes or HD and get some of the thermal insulation they put on houses. Pretty sure that stuff comes in a 4’ x 8’ sheet around .5" thick. High density foam you can cut to size with a utility knife. NOT roll insulation.
The printer can regulate it’s own temperature and adding external insulation has to be the dumbest idea I’ve heard on here. Just compensate for the temp drop and increase the settings in the slicer. This ■■■■ will just make all his prints melt.
No it does not regulate its own temperature. Whatever temperature is in the enclosure is just radiated temperature off the bed. Dang.
That IS dumb.
It targets a bed temperature and with the thermistor being in the bed it will see a negligible temperature change while you have a serious lowering of ambient temperature. Garages are hotter in summer, colder in winter and there is no Enclosure Temperature Control.
Think before you show you lack of knowledge of your printer.
This sounds like a good way to keep temps up. I was printing in the middle of TX summer 100+ degrees with no issues using ASA. I’m sure this will be fine.
It was a sort of quick and easy way to see if it is too cold in your garage. Do you put your cars in your garage? I imagine its a regional thing but where I live they do not typically insulate a garage. Insulation and sheetrock are extra.
My shop is heated, but usually only to about 13-15°C. Successful prints on my X1C seem to require a chamber temperature of at least 25°C, so I preheat the chamber with the heat bed set to 100° for about 15 minutes. I realize a P1 does not have a chamber temperature sensor, but simply preheating for a short time should help improve the printing environment.
I’ve certainly seen some failures recently that I’m fairly sure are due to winter, if I don’t give the machine time to warm up before using it–because I externally vent. I’ll be putting in a cutoff valve soon to address that.
So if you decide to go the indoors + external vent option, plan to seal off the duct when it’s not in use.
Wild temperature swings are not so great for hardware (or anything really).
When it’s cold you do not only have to deal with the lower temperature, but with different moisture to. Temperature on it’s own is already complex. Your printer wil heat up the printchamber in time, so the 4th print will act differently. the 8th will to because slowly the whole pprinting system, including the filament wil warm up.
The relative humidity is important to. In cold air, with the same relative humidity, there’s less moist in the air. To much moist will cause hair and underextrusion. To extract moist from your filament will take a lot of time, think in days, not hrs. Also, when its cold, the moist in the air will condense on your filament which will absorb it. One filament will absorb more than the other. You see, al lot of influences and I didn’t name them all. Best thing is to keep your printer at room temperature all the time, and keep the lid of the ams closed as much as possible. Preheat the chamber for printing, and the longer you keep your print warm the better it is for it’s final quality. But watch it for bending!
