Ok. Armed with that information, here is what I might suggest.
First, if you don’t mind spending the extra time, try printing at quite mode if the A1 has it. It will be found only in Bambu Studio and only after you start a print job. It will reduce all print head movements to 50% It will give any filament you are using the best possible chance to print well at the expense of doubling print time but in return, you will get the best possible print without going through calibration. Note that when you click on it, it may take up to a minute to move into that mode after print starts. Monitor it to make sure. It usually will do this at layer changes or after the plate warming phase.
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Don’t trust the presets
Let’s start off with the assumption that you can’t trust the presets. I found this to be especially true with anything other than Bambu’s regular PLA preset but let’s be honest, even a blind squirrel can print great prints with standard PLA.
Silk is it’s own challenge. You’ll have to do a lot more trial and error but just know that Silk likes nozzle temps a lot higher and in my experience as much as a 15-20c boost was necessary for some prints. For now, I am going to focus on PLA only.
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Calibration with Orca
You didn’t mentioned it but if you aren’t already using it, download Orca Slicer. You’re already familiar with Orca even if you don’t know it yet because it’s a fork of the Bambu Studio source code. You can also run it on the same computer, you don’t have to pick one over the other. But Orca has calibrations that I’m going to reference here.
You’ll notice this new button at the top of Orca. Visit the tutorial wiki page for tips on how to use each one of these.
No 1 Tip!!! Always save the results in your filament profile and start a new project to clear out the old values before beginning each test.
Max Flow Rate
Given your photos, this is where I might start.
Don’t bother with the default settings. Use these instead. This will be much faster as it will move the measurements in 1mm increments and will confine the test to the range most PLAs perform.
It should look like this after you slice it with speed view turned on. Note the speed change at each layer as the filament pours in a continuous ribbon.
After you measure where the filament starts to degrade(refer to tutorial) then enter that here in your filament profile:
Pressure advance tower
Tip set PA to off to make the math easier during calibration.
Although there are three PA tests, the most convenient is the PA Pattern but the most accurate is the PA Tower which can take over 20 minutes to print. Hint: if you’re watching it and it starts to split, you don’t have to complete the test. The third is the line test which you probably already did and is quite useless unless you have a great eye.
After measuring with a ruler as per the tutorial, enable PA enter the value here:
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Optional calibrations but may not be needed for your specific situation.
Temp Tower
You “might” want to do is run a temp tower. I’ll refer you to this link I made a few days ago in another post on how to use a temp tower effectively. I say “might want to do” because for your situation, I’m guessing that it’s not totally temp related and a temp tower may not provide meaningful information(especially for silk) as I noted in the post I linked to. So you would be forgiven for wanting to skip this step since it represents 30 minute print.
Flow Ratio
Although I never found this 2 pass system very useful. It is a worthwhile check. The tip I would give is that you want to run this with the flow ratio set to 1.0 rather than the default 0.98. It just makes the math in the tutorial easier to use. I say I’ve not found it very useful because there have been only a couple of filaments where the difference between the 0.98 and where it calibrated to was noticeable. Surprisingly, the presets for Overture Matte PLA, a well respected brand, was one of the presets that was wildly off for me.
