I have purchased an A1 printer in India. Power consumption mentioned in the data sheets is approx 1300W at 220v, and 350w at 110v.
The supply voltage is 230V in India. Can I run the same A1 printer at 110V, so that I can use a Low wattage UPS. Specification sheet says input supply 110V to 220V. I have access to 110V UPS.
The cost of UPS for 1300W is more than the printer cost.
In the US, I run my A1 mini and P1S on 110v(actually ~124 volts) because that’s what it’s pre-wired for.
In the US our grid is 110v/220v, but in reality 110 outlets will read 120-125v, my UPS bumps on if it drops below 117 volts. 220 outlets typically read ~230-240 volts
Well i have solved the problem. just use an 220v to 110 v stepdown transformer and connect it to the output of the UPS. The A1 is connected to the output of the transformer.
Would it be possible for you to share an image of the setup? It would really help us in sourcing the correct transformer and UPS. I’d greatly appreciate it — thanks so much!
The question that no one is making is: Why on 220Vac the power consumption is 4 times more than 110Vac ? Power should be close to the same, no matter the AC voltage supplied. I am waiting Bambu to explain this since last year, but no reason.
It never draws 1300 watts I have a monitor on mine and the max I’ve seen it go up to is 120watts briefly .
This is from Bambu wiki
What is the power draw of the A1 in printing and idle mode?
When the voltage input is 220V, the power consumption of the A1 in idle mode is 5 watts. During printing PLA, the average power consumption is 95 watts. Power consumption will increase when the nozzle or heatbed is heating up.
In the US years ago to was 110V Now its 120V which bring the Amps down. But we are talking about power consumption. So we need to talk about WATTS.
We are billed on how many watts we use by the power companies. So a printer in the US should use the same power as one in any where else in the world. Amp x Volts = Watts if you do the math.
The same guy that discovered that relationship also found that the current through a resistor is directly proportional to the voltage. Increase the voltage, and the current increases in proportion if the resistance is the same. Double the voltage, double the current. Halve the voltage, halve the current.
Amperage = Volts/Resistance.
So Amp x Volts = Watts becomes
Volt/Resistance x Volt=Watts or
Volts²/Resistance = Watts
Double the volts, quadruple the power consumption.
Power use of the heat bed quadruples when the voltage doubles, because the resistance does not change.
I have both 120 and 240 in my shop, and switching sources for my X1C only requires a cord swap. The total watt-hours consumed (what we are billed for) should be about the same with either voltage because heating the bed from room temperature to printing temperature is about six times faster with 240V than it is with 120V. More power being used, but for less time, with similar power use once temperature is steady.
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I think some of the confusion about volts and amps comes from those of us that have AC motors that can use 120 or 240 V. These motors do use the same power regardless of the input voltage, and use half the amps at 220V compared to 110V. But they do so by switching or rewiring the coils so that they are either in series (240V) or in parallel(120V). Two resistors in series are the equivalent of R+R, two in parallel are 1/R + 1/R.
The heat bed in our printer is a different situation, it is not rewired for a voltage change and the resistance is constant.
I’ll disagree. My 120V version will go up to around 300 watts while the bed is heating. Note: Keep in mind it cycle the heater on and off to maintain the set temp, So I can see the 220V one hitting around 1300 when bed heating. However as someone else noted it would heat up faster and the average use use should be about the same.
Currently my A1 is printing. You can see in the short video, going 70-80 on average, with low as 30s, and sometimes seeing spikes as 119 but very rarely.
This is with supertack. With textured plate was in the lows of 100ish, sometimes under it. No way it draws 1300 Watts. My socket wouldn’t handle it anyway.
1300 watts at 240V is less than 5.5A. I don’t know where you are, but here in the U.S. the lightest duty household circuits and outlets can handle 15A. Portable room heaters and cooking appliances commonly provide 1500 watts at 120V without overloading a circuit.
Obviously not in the US since it’s a different voltage (It’s in Europe). I’ve never said that the household circuit can’t handle it, that would be quite bad. It’s that the socket I’m using can’t handle it. These are some old apartments, can handle up to 7 kW power (newer ones go easily over 11 kW) but the strongest circuits are for the kitchen and bathroom while other rooms have lighter cables and some sockets are even lighter.
We don’t really use room heaters since it’s more common to see radiators or a heating floor, using combi boilers or something else that is centralised. Not many appliances are high consumers but I do have an old vacuum cleaner that is rated at ~1800 watts or an air fryer that is similar in power consumption. I mentioned that old vacuum cleaner because the EU banned the import of everything over 1600 Watts since 2014 and now everything over 900 Watts since 2017. They want manufacturers to make them more efficient, not just power hungry. EU went for quite a variety of high energy appliances ban and they plan to go for more. Also electricity is quite expensive here, comparing with the US.
Anyway, back to the topic, A1 is far from draining that much power, it’s more like a 10th of it. Even less if you use something like a supertack/cryogrip plate. People should know how to differentiate between max power rating and the average power consumption.